The shroud seams were filled with CWF and sanded smooth.
The nose cone was filled with CWF and sanded. Duplicolor Primer/Filler followed and smooth sanding.
The long nose cone shoulder is cut to make a nose block. This is used for a base floor for the lead sinker weights.
The instructions say to allow for a 1 1/2" space for the nose weights.
I checked with the larger weight and the length was closer to 1 3/8". I wanted to glue the nose block/base at the correct depth so the weights wouldn't move around during boost and ejection.
Notice how the two weights sit in the tube, the larger weight is point up, the smaller weight is point down.
The nose block was glued in at a depth of 1 3/8" from the top of the tube.
Both weights were stacked above the block. There was still some room so I used a little paper towel to hold the weights in place.
The nose cone is glued on top to close it off.
`This reminds me of the ASP Super Loki Dart, which also uses lead sinkers for ballast. Coincidentally, it is also a slender, small payload NASA launch vehicle. Instructions have two sinkers sandwiched between a balsa transition and a balsa nose block. But they say to add a small layer of epoxy to lock in the weight. I guess different manufacturers have their quirks. Whatever works, right?
ReplyDeleteRarely, I sometimes run across instructions which make no sense at all. The TLP Pershing instructions say to break off the fins after gluing on and drying! Re-glue them on: "this will make a stronger joint". So I guess I've been making stronger joints every time I repair the damage from hard landings. Maybe I should do it more often.
Another one is the Micro Sentra SRB from US Rockets. It uses the Ace Fugue method of shroud making. In a nutshell, it involves cutting thin slices at the end of a tube to produce "petals" which can be formed into a shroud. These have to be glued together, seams filled and sanded, and even then it will still have a "faceted" look. Instead, I replaced that with traditional cardstock shrouds. One tenth of the time and effort, and cleaner results.
Chris, with all your experience, have you ever run across instructions that absolutely make no sense?
Hi BAR,
DeleteOh yeah, sometimes kit instructions make no sense at all! I've also screwed up a few builds because I didn't read correctly or missed something in the instruction copy. I never quite understood the Gyroc engine hold tabs until I built another a few years ago. The Estes Thor Agena B nozzle details were very confusing. A misplaced "space" in the dimensions threw me.
I do remember the TLP instructions saying to "break off and re-glue" the fins. I didn't do that either.
I have seen that (US Rockets) Ace Fugue method of making a transition from the body tube end. I haven't tried it. I know before I'd get out a new knife blade that I wouldn't be happy with the finished look.