This ties to the 1/4" elastic shock cord using a simple overhand knot.
Note: There is a bit of glue on the end of the cut elastic to keep it from unraveling.
The back end of the 29mm motor mount extends 1/4" out the back of the model.
I glued the motor mount in after the model was painted and stickered.
The Kevlar line was pushed through the inside of the motor mount to keep it out of the sway while the glue sets up.
Here's the parachute and shock cord tie to the nose cone base.
TIP: I tie small overhand loop knots at the center point of the shroud line loops. These were tied together using some 150 lb. Kevlar, then the Kevlar tied to the nose cone lug.
If these lines are placed side by side when tying to the Kevlar, you can end up with a tangle free parachute.
Here's an article I wrote for the Apogee Peak Of Flight newsletter that better explains how to tie Tangle Free Parachutes: CLICK HERE
TIP: Notice the loose tail end of the shock cord is tucked inside the hole at the base of the nose cone shoulder. It's out of the way and won't get caught between the nose cone and body tube.
That was a great article that I hadn't seen before. Makes me want to go back and "fix" all my old plastic chutes. Unfortunately the thin-mil Top Flight chutes I often use have the shroud lines attached the "traditional" way, and I always struggle with getting a clean tangle-free connection to the snap swivel.
ReplyDeleteDo you make the shroud line that goes from 3-6 a bit longer?
Hi Neil,
DeleteGlad you found the article interesting.
The shroud line going from "3 to 6" is the same length as the others.
Check out the sixth picture from this post to see an example of a tangle free parachute:
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2019/11/launch-soccer-field-november-26-2019.html
I can tie it "tangle free" but that may not mean it stays that way forever! I don't attach the shroud lines directly to the nose cone. A nose cone can swing in and out of the lines making a tangled mess!