I checked the roll wrap decal with a dry fit at the top of the BT-50 tube section.
I hate it when this happens! The decal wrap hits the short upper launch lug.
One way around this is to cut the decal and make a flap that will be cut off later after it dries.
The checker pattern didn't match up! Another reason why I hide the decal meeting point on the back/launch lug side of the model. I did my best to trim the overhang but the thin decal didn't cooperate.
These were very thin decals and probably could have used a acrylic clear coat to thicken them up before soaking. But - kit supplied decals shouldn't require that from the builder.
Two decals tore when sliding off the backing paper. Other decals wanted to fold under and needed careful transfers.
I also hate thin decals. The Newway kits I hand built have had the thinnest decals I have ever seen.
ReplyDeleteHi Metal,
DeleteWith smaller vendors. home print decals aren't usually as thick as ones made using the old silk screen process. It might just take an additional clear coat to make a difference. On my Odd'l kits, I do three acrylic clear coats. So far, I haven't had any complaints about decal soak and transfers.
There were a few odd occasions where I got a decal sheet (on various types of model kits) that was partially missing or completely missing the carrier film. Fortunately I caught the problem *before* trying to use any of the decals. The problem was potted when looking at sheet with light across it -- the sheet with the partially-missing carrier film was easy to spot -- some of the markings had a sheen from the film and some didn't (and occasionally there wre some markings that had partial covering of film). The sheet with the completely missing carrier film had an even mattte appearance. As a precaution, I isolated one of the markings (either a spare, or one that wouldn't be noticeable if missing), then dipped it in water -- sure enough the marking shattered into bits as it began to loosen off the bakcing. Sprayed a few coats of clear on those sheets.
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