Nothing too special here, the classic Estes tri-fold mount.I do set the shock cord at an angle so the finished mount isn't too thick. This way the rubber lays beside itself in the folds instead of two or three layers of rubber and paper.
I pre-scored the mount folds before gluing.
The end of the shock cord was cut at an angle to better fit into the fold.
Before gluing, roll a slight curve into the mount to better fit the inside of the body tube.
The curve should not be as extreme as shown in the picture. In a tube this large it's a subtle curve.
The instructions say to glue them on opposite sides, 2" from the top of the tube.
Time spent on build: :30
Total time on build so far: 41:45
I'm not sure how much difference this makes, but I glue my shock cord mounts facing the other way. Sec. 2 is glued in against the body tube while the back of Sec. 3 faces the inside of the tube.
ReplyDeleteThe way you have it, if the shock cord was pulled straight down toward the engine it would unfold.
I have glued them in both ways, with the front or back of section 2 glued facing the tube.
ReplyDeleteThe way I showed (with the back of section 3 glued facing the tube) gives a flatter gluing surface than the bulging side of section 2 against the inside of the body tube.
Both ways work, I think the flat side of section three makes a more secure glued mount.
The picture may "read" wrong, but the rubber shock cord loose end is facing up toward the top, away from the engine mount.
ReplyDeleteI took an entirely different approach. Since I replaced the 24mm tube with a 29mm tube for possibly using F/G motors in the future, I also replaced the cardboard centering rings with basswood 4" rings with 29mm holes from Apogee Components. This allowed me to epoxy in two small eye bolts on either side of the engine/stuffer tube. I'll attach shock cords with snap swivels to those eye bolts. I don't think I'd be able to do that with cardboard centering rings, even if I smeared epoxy completely over the ring.
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