After the filler in the seam is dry, sand it down ALMOST to the body tube surface.
Enlarge the drawings to better understand the sequence.
Carpenter's Wood Filler can get knocked out of the seam when you sand it too close to the surface.
I stop sanding when it is almost flush to the body tube sides.
I stop sanding when it is almost flush to the body tube sides.
I lock the filler into the seam with a thin coat of Super Glue.
Lay a drop down on a scrap piece of card stock and dip a Q-Tip in the glue.
Rub a thin coating over the filler. Let dry.
Lay a drop down on a scrap piece of card stock and dip a Q-Tip in the glue.
Rub a thin coating over the filler. Let dry.
Sand the glue and what's left of the filler down flush with the outside body tube surface.
Yes, you can sand CA down to surface with 400 grit sandpaper on a block.
Yes, you can sand CA down to surface with 400 grit sandpaper on a block.
You will find the filler stays in the body tube seams better when it is glued in with the CA.
What little doesn't stay in the seam can be filled later with the sanded primer.
What little doesn't stay in the seam can be filled later with the sanded primer.
Some tubes (it seems no matter how you try) won't hold filler in the seams. This method isn't perfect, but closer to what I'd like a seam filler to accomplish.
In the next post we'll explore the seam filling technique suggested by George Gassaway.
Time spent on build: 1:00 seam filling
Total time on build so far: 7:15
No comments:
Post a Comment