Quest/Aerotech High Q, #Q5012, Finished

This is a striking model with big graphics. At 2" in diameter, it's about as big as I like to go. Still a manageable size.

Dipping the stickers in water allows for re-positioning and air bubbles are easier to work out from under the surface.

When stickers are done correctly, you really don't notice the edges.

The Metallic nose cone sets it off. 

I like adding some metallic paint as an accent color. It ties in well with the silver print in the stickers

I wish I could have found a candy apple (metallic) purple for the main body.

Quest/Aerotech High Q, #Q5012, Part 5, Ends & Edges

When I can, I like to finish off the edges of a build. 

Years back, my eighth grade wood shop teacher told me: "Anyone can get the flat top surface smooth - a craftsman smooths the corners and inside edges."

 

The clear overlap of the wrap stickers showed some raised lines.

Sharpie to the rescue - 

These lines were easily covered with careful use of the permanent marker. The left picture is the before.

In the right side picture that little white mark is a reflection. Now the overlap is almost invisible.

The ends of the tubes were also painted.

On the left, the black segment was done with the Sharpie pen. The end edge of the motor mount tube also got a Sharpie wipe.

The body tube edge didn't get a good coverage of the sprayed purple paint.

On the right, some purple was rolled on with a Q-tip.

Spray some purple in a small cup and dip a Q-tip. Wipe off the excess paint then roll the purple onto the tube edge.

Quest/Aerotech High Q, #Q5012, Part 4, Stickers 2

GOTCHA: Here's the upper wrap. The wrap wasn't long enough to meet at the ends.

I didn't want to leave that white gap.

FIX: It was filled with a strip of my "go-to" vinyl, Contact Paper Blackboard Covering.

The vinyl strip isn't a full gloss, but it's better than the white band. The flat surface of the Contact Paper fill strip was "shined up" with some Future floor finish later on.

As I understand it,

TRIVIA: The High Q originally a two stager. The booster (Stage "1') was dropped before it went into production.

The "2" on the fin is left from the two stage version.

Two strips of masking tape helped with the positioning of the "2".

I wanted to be sure it was square and centered.

The tape was set down while the sticker was cut and still on the backing. Set the tape right at the sticker border edge.

With the tape in place, then peel off the backing and set to the edges of the sticker against the positioning tape. Remove the positioning tape.

There are three Quest logos that are spaced evenly around the tube.

I set mine down the fin line and directly above the masked lines down the body. Note the center pencil line on the tape.

Another strip of tape let me line up the left side of the sticker.

Quest/Aerotech High Q, #Q5012, Part 4, Stickers 1

GOTCHA: Some of the die-cut stickers weren't cut completely through the upper layer. It took a few passes with my knife to free the stickers. 

These are plastic stickers, not water slide decals.

TIP: I recommend dipping the stickers in a dish of water and wetting the body tube before setting down  the sticker. 

The water allows lifting and repositioning of the sticker to set them into the right position.

TIP: Wash your hands before handling the stickers. Oily fingerprints will show through on the finished model. It helps to lift and initially set the sticker onto the model when stuck onto your knife blade. Avoid touching the sticky back.

The first sticker down was the large model name. It centers directly over the white fin line.

The low end wrap sits behind the trailing edge of the fins.

TIP: Start and finish all body wrap stickers in a line on the back side (launch lug side) of the model.
Notice the body roll wraps weren't long enough to meet at the back!

The smaller lower wrap doesn't matter with the start and finish points over black paint.

See the next post for a concern with the upper wrap.

Quest/Aerotech High Q, #Q5012, Part 3, Masking

No CWF and filler/primer steps shown on this build. The grain filling methods were standard.

   

There are four colors on this model - 

White, Purple, Black and a Silver nose cone. It's not an easy mask!

Most of the lower body is purple, one fin was masked off to stay white.

TIP: Most of you know this - Spray lightest colors first. On this rocket the gloss white was first sprayed, then purple followed by the black.

6" down from the top of the body tube is masked off to leave the gloss white.

The nose cone was sprayed off the body with Rusto Metallic Aluminum.

TIP: Spray metallic paints in light coats. Metallic paints tend to be thinner and can easily run.

Here's the confusing black mask. The picture shows the initial line of Scotch tape, then masking tape and plastic bags covering the larger areas.

1/3 of the body is painted black. The black strip runs vertically. The picture on the right side is 1/2 turn to the left.

My confusion was where the 1/3 stripe should fall. The instructions aren't clear. I set the black paint position so I wouldn't have to mask down the middle of the launch lug.

Masking the back of the model gives a better visual spacing for the big HIGH Q sticker over the opposite side purple paint.

My mask wasn't perfect, there was a little of the paint edge pulled up.

On the left is a piece of Scotch tape set over the rough line. Some Black paint was sprayed in a cup and brushed onto the mask area. Be sure to wipe excess paint off the brush before doing a touchup like this.

The picture on the right shows a good blend of the brushed ACE Hardware enamel spray.

Quest/Aerotech High Q, #Q5012, Part 2, Shock Cord & Parachute

The Kevlar line is doubled coming off the upper centering ring in the motor mount.

This ties to the 1/4" elastic shock cord using a simple overhand knot.

Note: There is a bit of glue on the end of the cut elastic to keep it from unraveling.

The back end of the 29mm motor mount extends 1/4" out the back of the model.

I glued the motor mount in after the model was painted and stickered.

The Kevlar line was pushed through the inside of the motor mount to keep it out of the sway while the glue sets up.

Here's the parachute and shock cord tie to the nose cone base.

TIP: I tie small overhand loop knots at the center point of the shroud line loops. These were tied together using some 150 lb. Kevlar, then the Kevlar tied to the nose cone lug.

If these lines are placed side by side when tying to the Kevlar, you can end up with a tangle free parachute.

Here's an article I wrote for the Apogee Peak Of Flight newsletter that better explains how to tie Tangle Free Parachutes: CLICK HERE

TIP: Notice the loose tail end of the shock cord is tucked inside the hole at the base of the nose cone shoulder. It's out of the way and won't get caught between the nose cone and body tube.

Quest/Aerotech High Q, #Q5012, Build Highlights, Part 1, Engine Mount

Some descriptive copy from the Quest website:

Flies on 'D', 'E', and 'F' motors.

High-Q is a great looking and performing mid-size rocket. Over 30 inches tall, the kit features blow molded plastic nose cone, laser-cut balsa fins and a rugged 29mm diameter motor mount. Flights with an Aerotech F32-6W will go to almost 3,000 feet. Then your High-Q will recover gently on the big 18-inch fabric parachute. Includes big, easy-to-apply self adhesive decals. Also includes 24mm motor mount adapter that allows you to use 24mm diameter motors.

Recommended Motors: D12-3, D12-5, E9-4, E9-6 - Aerotech E20-4W, E20-7W, F32-6W, F20-7W.
This rocket designed by internationally famous designer Scott Branche.

______________________________________________________________________

This won't be a full build, most of the the construction is standard.

I'll concentrate on a few high points, masking, painting and the stickers.

My two kits included a 16" yellow, rip stop nylon parachute.

A 24mm engine mount is included - This is the instruction illustration.

GOTCHA: I would recommend gluing the rear centering ring 1/2" up from the bottom of the motor mount tube.

The Quest engine hook won't spring back if it doesn't have room to flex.

Moving the centering ring forward allows for some movement of the spring.