Centuri Payloader II on Ebay

A finished Centuri Payloader II is up for auction on Ebay!

This was built from the Estes Classics series re-issue kit with many upgrades.
Heavy walled BT-50H tubing and a longer nose cone is closer to the original Centuri profile.
A Centuri logo has been added to the name decal. Metallic red fins and nose cone.

To see the model - CLICK HERE          Stop by, make a bid and support the blog!

Payloader II Auction Almost Over on Ebay

Less than one day left for the finished PAYLOADER II on EBAY - CLICK HERE

This build got a longer nose cone, closer to the original Centuri kit.

The Centuri logo decal is added.

Metallic Red paint was used.

It's a very clean build and finish. 

Stop by, make a bid and support the blog!

Payloader II on EBAY

I have a finished PAYLOADER II on EBAY - CLICK HERE

This build got a longer nose cone, closer to the original Centuri kit.

The Centuri logo decal is added.

Metallic Red paint was used.

It's a very clean build and finish. 

Stop by, make a bid and support the blog!

Estes PAYLOADER II For Sale on Ebay

The finished Estes (Centuri) Payloader II is up for Auction on Ebay.

This is the same model built here on the blog. 

I'm proud of this model, one of the better builds.

To see the Ebay listing, CLICK HERE

Support the Blog, Make a bid!

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Finished

A great, classic Centuri design.
These pictures were taken before the "Centuri PAYLOADER " decal was added.

The pictures don't show off the Rusto metallic red paint. Outdoors it really catches the sunlight.
Painting over the payload tube (to hide the adapter and nose cone shoulders) gives the illusion of a longer nose cone.
I'm very happy with the finished results. This one could be the new favorite sport model.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 17, Future Shine Over Metallic Paint

I was actually excited to find the Rustoleum Metallic Red at a nearby Ace Hardware Store. This was the same brand of paint that gave me such great results on the Quest Stiletto. On that model I used the metallic black and silver paints.

This paint is very forgiving. Apply with light coats and no heavier finish coat.
I wish the paint dried and shined like the cap on the paint can.Because of all the tiny metal flakes in the paint you don't end up with a glossy finish. But under sunlight the paint shimmers.

I rarely use Pledge with Future Shine (or whatever they call it this month).
Some builder's brush it on thick and let it drip dry. That just didn't work for me.

The white paint on the body tube of the Payloader II was very glossy. The metallic red fins and nose cone weren't as shiny. I tried the Pledge on the red. I used a Q-tip dipped in the Pledge. Before "brushing" the excess Pledge was touched onto a paper towel. The Pledge is water thin, I didn't want to apply too much and get drips.
The nose cones were slightly pulled out of the tube so the Pledge wouldn't "glue" the nose cone in.

On the left is the red paint as sprayed and dried.
On the right is another Payloader II with the Pledge applied. Enlarge the picture and you can see the finish looks deeper and more glossy. The metallic specks show off even more.

I do use the Pledge on decals to seal the edges onto the surface. For me the trick is to apply enough to get a smooth gloss but not enough to drip.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 16, Gluing the Nose Block

The instructions say to use plastic cement to glue the nose block in the payload section tube. I'll be using thin CA.
If glue were applied as in the illustration it could push the glue up and fog up the clear tube.



Before any glue is applied, the interior of the tube is wiped clean.
Once the nose block is glued in it would be tough to clean the bottom of the tube.

The nose block was slid into the tube, no glue yet.
TIP: Notice the paper towel under the assembly. Always have a paper towel handy when using thin super glues. The glue can get away from you.

Small drops of glue were set on the clear tube edge and allowed to run underneath. Wipe off any excess with the paper towel.

The instructions do say to tape on the nose cone but don't mention it is for nose cone retention. Payload section nose cones can pop off at ejection.
The instructions say to use clear tape. I'll use masking tape inside the NC shoulder to friction fit the nose cone. The sticky side of the clear tape can break down and get into the paint finish if left on the model.
Some builders use two or three pins pushed through a small hole in the clear tube into the nose cone shoulder.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 15, Decals

I had already redrew the decals for the slightly larger body tube I used. I ended up using the kit decals.

The black strips are centered between the fins.
Cut the end of the bands close to the black ink, removing the clear bottom edge. You won't want the clear border overhanging the back edge of the body tube.

These decals are very thin!
I was very careful but three of the four black strips broke.
They were pretty easy to butt together and the break shouldn't show.

The kit decal roll pattern fit perfectly around the (slightly) larger diameter wider heavy wall BT-50! I won't need to print the larger decal I had already drawn up.

The decal goes right up against the painted red band.
Right out of the bag the kit the decal was creased. You can see where some of the ink broke up. I might be able to touch this up with a Sharpie.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 14, Red Paint

The red was sprayed.
I used the Rustoleum Metallic Apple Red. The only place I've found this red is at Ace hardware. This is great spray paint and very forgiving.
When using this Rusto metallic, spray light coats. It is dry to the touch in just a few minutes. Don't spray a final heavy coat with this metallic.

TIP: shown in the picture to the left - 
If you want to see if the paint is dry, don't touch a fin or painted nose cone! Touch the over spray on the masking tape.





TIP: when removing the masking tape, pull it off back and over itself as shown on the right.
I have the best results removing the tape before the paint is fully dried.








With the tape removed, the model looks pretty good even before the decals are applied.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 13, More Masking

The top of the body tube gets a band of red, 1/4" down from the top lip.

Again I used a strip of marked Scotch tape.

The center area of the body tube was covered with a wrap of printer  paper.

The inset picture shows the full mask for the upper red band.
Inside the tube is masked with small pieces of masking tape, set in the tube sticky side out.
A roll of paper goes in the tube. A piece of masking tape holds it to the pieces of tape already in the tube end.

The nose cone will also be red.

TIP: The nose cone is pulled out slightly so a little bit of red goes on the shoulder.
This insures the entire top will look red even if the nose cone is not entirely seated in the payload tube.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 12, Masking

I don't use regular brown masking tape and won't pay a premium for the "boutique" hobby masking tapes. Scotch tape can give razor sharp lines and it's a lot cheaper.

Scotch tape strips are set down on my patio door glass.
To make the clear tape easier to see on the model, a wide point marker is run down the center of the tape strips.

A straightedge is set down along the middle of the marked line.
The black line is cut in half, down the middle with my knife.
Your hobby knife won't cut or score the glass unless you press down too hard.
One strip of tape will give you two facing pieces of tape for masking.

Set the tape down centered on a fillet. The black marker line makes it easier to see the mask edge.

If your fillets and paint aren't smooth, don't expect a sharp paint separation line. The more time you put in on filling and fillets, the better your painting masks will end up.

At the rounded leading edge, many small pieces of tape are set to curve around the fin.

This many pieces of layered tape may not give you a perfect rounded leading edge. After the tape is removed, any rough edges can be "pushed back" with the tip of your knife while the paint is still pliable, not fully dry.
I tend to lift the tape before the paint fully dries.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 11, Shoulder Painting TIP

Occasionally you see clear payload models at club launches. Chances are, the nose cone is painted off the model and the shoulder is also sprayed. The painted shoulder ends up underneath the clear payload tubing. Even the model pictured at the top of the Estes instructions has the nose and nose block shoulders painted under the clear tube!
The Estes instructions tell you nothing about masking the clear payload tube. Step 10 of the finishing instructions say to: "Paint the nose cone gloss bright red." What about masking the shoulders?


Centuri had a better way, from the original Payloader II instructions - 
TIP: Paint the clear tube covering up the balsa nose cone and nose block shoulders!
The instructions add: "This is the best technique because the paint hides the visible parts of the connector and insert."


On the left is my Scotch tape mask just over and covering the end of the balsa nose block. (The block got a coat of CWF to increase it's diameter for a tighter fit.) The rest of the clear section was masked off. The low end of the exposed balsa nose block was set in the body tube, no paint got on it.

The inset picture shows the tube with the mask removed. Clean and covered!

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 10, Decal Redraw

I wasn't very happy with the kit decals.
The black stripes that go between the fins had some rough edges. The Estes logo wasn't printed clean.
The roll pattern was sharp though.

I originally wanted my Estes Payloader II closer to the Centuri catalog versions. The roll pattern might have to be a bit wider to fit the thick walled BT-50 I used.

A paper wrap was used on the painted tube to get the roll pattern width.
The PAYLOADER name was set in the "Impact" style font. Impact was the closest I could find to match the Centuri decals found on www.oldrocketplans.com.
It did take some stretching and spacing to get the name right.
It's interesting to note, the decals on the plan site show "Centuri PAYLOADER", not "Centuri PAYLOADER II".

EDIT: I didn't end up using the roll pattern decal I drew for the slightly wider diameter BT-50H tube. The decal from the kit worked fine! The overlap lined up perfectly with no gap at the joint. I'll still use the Centuri logo and model name I drew, it might have to wait until I print some other decals. I always combine a small decal area (like the Payloader II decals) on a larger sheet so I don't waste 3/4 of a decal paper sheet.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 9, Primer and Sanding

Once again the Tung wood grain is showing up.
Grain holes showed up on the right side of each forward fin strakes. More filler and sanding!






The hole in the shoulder base of the replacement BMS nose cone needed filling. I used 1/2 of the screw eye dowel and sanded it flat with the base.




Even this far into the filling and priming I'm still working on the rounded edge transition between the main fin and forward strake.
With the primer sprayed it's easier to see the rounded leading edge for sanding corrections.



The first white undercoat was sprayed concentrating on the the fin fillets.
Some 400 grit was wrapped around a Q-tip for cushioned sanding.
Enlarge the picture to better see the sanded glue ridges on the body tube side of the fillet.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 8, Gluing It Together

Mentioned earlier, the engine mount was recessed a bit more than directed in the instructions. This was so the model would rest on the trailing edges of the fins and not wobble on the extended engine hook. The engine hook finger tab was cut off earlier to give it the old school look.




I tend to glue and fillet the launch lug first, then line up the fin marking guide with the launch lug already in place.

After the Titebond M&TG fillet has dried, I run my fingernail down the recessed fillet to see if it is smooth. If I feel any bubbles or if it is uneven, another fillet is applied.




Once again, the provided Estes fin marking guide doesn't meet up!
Even if it were close I wouldn't trust it.
I'll make up a marking guide by wrapping a piece of paper, marking the overlap joint and folding it into quarters.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 7, More CWF Filling

The nose cone fit is loose in the clear payload section.
I'll build up the diameter the same way as the nose block with a coat of CWF.
I kept the CWF away from the new, sharp lip.
This will be sanded to a tight, friction fit in the payload tube.

I could have used masking tape but the shoulder gets gummy after a while.






With the filler/primer sprayed you can better see the inside leading edge angle joint.
Some 400 grit was wrapped around the stick part of a Q-tip to even out the rounded leading edge.

To round out the corner you can add a small fillet of Titebond M&TG.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 6, Some CWF Filling

The shoulder edge on the replacement nose cone wasn't very sharp.
I painted filler just over the edge. The clear payload tube was slid on and the tube edge pushed the CWF up into a bead. Push and turn, then removed the tube.
This bead of filler raised the outside diameter of the shoulder edge.

After it dries the bead of filler will be sanded down.
Slide the clear tube back on to check how much should be sanded off and try to match the diameters.
Don't sand down the CWF shoulder with the clear tube in place!
Sand, slide on the clear tube, check, remove the tube and sand again if needed.

The fit of the nose block was too loose in the clear tube.
The lower half of the block got a wrap of masking tape.
The upper half got a brushed coat of CWF.
After that dried a little sanding got the diameter to a good tighter fit.

This rough look of the block under the clear tube will be covered later with a coat of paint.
The block fit in the lower BT-50 heavy wall tube was very good.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 5, Fins, Leading Edge Rounding

The laser cutting didn't quite go through the back of the wood!
Not a big deal, a sharp blade and straightedge freed up the fins.

The instructions say to round the leading edges of the fins, the outside and trailing edges remain square. How do you get rounded leading edges of the "dorsal" fin (Part H) and main fin at the corner joint?

You could sand them both round after the two pieces are glued together but I prefer to round the smaller, dorsal fin first. It's hard to get into that corner. Sand it round now and it's less work later.

Don't pre-round the larger main fin. When both are glued together you'll use the dorsal fin as a inside corner sanding guide.

On the left is the first dry fit of the two piece fin against a straightedge. The gluing edge doesn't match up.

After some truing up with a sanding block you can see the better fit in the inset picture.

Pins are set into the cardboard underneath to press the two pieces together. Don't press the metal pins too tight against the fins, the pins might dent the wood edges.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 4, Fins, Leading Edge Rounding

The leading edge of the smaller dorsal fin is already rounded.
With a sanding block I'm sanding in a 45 degree "corner" into the larger main fin.
Don't sand any more off the dorsal fin. Going down the rounded edge, use your block to "knock" into the main fin balsa cutting the small 45 degree notch.

The leading edge of the main fins are rounded. Be careful when you get close to the 45 degree notch already at the fin joint, that is your "stop point".
After applying filler the angled notch probably won't be as sharply defined. That's okay, the transition between the two pieces will probably be smoother than you would get otherwise.

Looking ahead - 

The engine hook overhangs the back end of the tube.
If you've ever built a Estes Goblin, the rocket didn't stand up on its fins. It wobbled on the engine hook.
I'll recess the engine mount tube (not even with the main air frame BT-50 tube) so the model will stand on the fin trailing edges.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 3, Long Nose Block and Engine Mount

The newer Estes kits have nose blocks that are 2" long.
The old 50 tube nose blocks were 1" long. Even back then it felt a bit short with only 1/2" on either side.
I'll compromise and cut this block to 1 1/2" for 3/4" exposed to join up the tubes.

1/2" inch was cut off the 2" long nose block with a razor saw leaving a short 1/2" block.
I'm building two kits so I have two short pieces. These will be glued together and thrown into the spare parts box.

The thin BT-20 blue engine mount tubes will be replaced with Centuri style ST-7 tubes. They are thicker, stronger and like the original kit.
The green adapter ring will need some inside peeling to fit the wider ST-7 tube.
A channel strip was also cut from the inside to clear the engine hook.

This is a dry fit to check the fit of the long adapter channel fit over the engine hook.
Cutting the channel takes away friction and compressing of the adapter and engine tube.





Here's the finished engine mount.
The Kevlar line was tied under the top bend of the engine hook, Semroc style.

Note the tied loop is long enough so the knot ends up over the top of the tube.
There is very little room between the tube diameters and the knot might get into the way when the mount is glued in.
The tail end was pushed back through the loop to hold it down against the engine mount tube.