Coming up - Estes #1969 Saturn V Build

Here's we go again!
I just got some emails from Estes, they want me to build a new #1969 Saturn V!
The model is already in distribution so I can do the build here on the blog.

I've sent out plenty of the older #2157 Saturn V build book to blog followers. Most of that build still applies, but the new version has some updates. It's time for a new, detailed build.

I've already finished two models for Estes, they will be featured here after they go into general distribution. After that, Estes wants three other models built - Whew!

Decal Soaking Questions

From the Odd'l Rockets Email box, a question - 

"Waiting to finish an Estes Mini-Max, with waterslide decals. You use the drop of liquid detergent in the water, which has worked for me. 
The Apogee site recommends using white glue in the soaking.  
apogeerockets.com/Advanced_Construction_Videos/Rocketry_Video_91. 
Your thoughts?"

My response:

I've never heard of using white glue in the soak water! 

This might work, but I've never tried it.

Decals from different vendors are so inconsistent, sometimes you can't move them once they are set down. 

I wouldn't want a tough to position decal to be any more sticky!

TIP: The inconsistency is sometimes the thickness of the clear topcoat. Too thin and the printer ink dissolves. Too thick and the decal ends up looking like a peel and stick. 

While I hate Krylon color paints, their clear acrylic spray still seems to be the best for clear coating a home printed decal sheet. Three coats (not too heavy) seems to be about right. It seals the printer ink and gives you the right thickness.

Home print decals are good, but never as great as a kit decal. Face it, you are not printing decals on a large press or silk screening. 

As Gus (Steve) on TRF once wrote: "They are a different animal." 

Most every source recommends using a very small drop of detergent soap in the soak water. 

It helps break up the surface tension in the soak water. Others say it helps the decal slide on the model surface.

On response on TRF tells you: "The decals are ruined because the drop of soap breaks down the adhesive on the decal."

I've never had a problem with the small drop of dish soap in the soak water. 

(Judging by the forum responses, many others haven't had a problem either.)

Wet the surface on the model with a drop of water where the decal is to go. Set the decal on the wet surface.

That water under the decal helps lubricate the surface for easier positioning.

TIP: If the decal can't be easily moved, use a wet brush to work some water into the edges. The soft brush will get some water under the decal without tearing the edges.

After the decal is in in position, don't rub over it with a paper towel. A thin decal could tear.

Roll a wet Q-tip over the decal to work out any air bubbles or water drops.

I don't brush Future acrylic all over a model to seal the decals. I've never had great results with brushing or spraying Future.

Now I dip a Q-tip in the Future and wipe off the excess. You won't need much of the Future to apply a thin, protective coat.

The wet (with Future) Q-tip is rolled over the decal and the edges.

I've never had decals peel or lift after this light sealing. 

Good Luck!

Chris Michielssen

Odd'l Rockets

Centurion Project Part 9 Cosmic Explorer Fin Decals

The edges can be trimmed off with a new razor blade.
Use a light touch, just enough to cut the decal film and not into the fin.

The trimmed fin decals leading edge is at the top.

The inset picture shows the trailing edge.

All the decals got a sealing with some Future applied with a Q-Tip.

Dip the Q-Tip into the Future, dab off the excess on a paper towel and apply over the decals concentrating on the edges.
If your finish is good and very glossy, applying Future over the entire model isn't needed. I only apply it over decals that might crack and lift.

When the Future is applied you can see the decal "seat" better on the painted surface. The red color looks richer after the seal coat.

I know - many builders have great results brushing Future over the entire model. That doesn't work well for me.

Pledge / Future TIP

I've read about Pledge/Future floor finish on the forums.
Here's what the latest bottle art looks like - 
Many have great success with it, saying it gives their models an additional gloss.
I've never had great luck with it.

I've brushed it on and tried to pick up the drips - it's very thin and runs.
Another time it was sprayed on. I just didn't feel in control of it once it's out of the bottle.
I knew it could help seal the edges on my home print decals.


Tonight I tried it on the Cobalt "Orange" ink jet printed decals.
But this time, I applied it lightly, only on the decal and it's edges with a Q-Tip applicator.

The Q-tip was dipped into Pledge and the excess rolled off onto a paper towel. For just covering the decals you don't want the cotton tip saturated. What little is left on the tip will easily cover a decal and the area around it.

The picture shows it after the acrylic coat dried around the decal. The Pledge did seem to get underneath the decal edge and seal it to the fin surface - better than it was before.