Wolverine Phoenix AIM-54A, Fix!, Part 8, New Decal & Finished

To place the home print decals, I had to consult the online instructions at Jim Z's: CLICK HERE

Nothing too complicated, simply center the decal in the open space.

Here's the decal in place, another is directly on the other side.

I centered the large lowest line "SERNO 20115" between the yellow bands.

The kit included a single 18" chrome Mylar parachute. The original Estes kit had a larger 24" parachute. These fins are delicate. I'll probably put two (duel) 15" chutes in.

Here's the 4" taller original build - 

And the same corrected, shorter Phoenix. 

A much better look.

Wolverine Phoenix AIM-54A, Fix!, Part 7, An Interesting Mask

This was an interesting mask. I had to work around the rectangle plates so the paint ridge would be hidden.

For whatever reason, I used yellow Trim Monokote for the yellow stripes. This allowed me to set marked Scotch tape masks on the yellow tape. If this yellow was a water slide decal, the tape would probably lift the ink.

It took quite a few small pieces of tape to outline the raised plates,

The picture on the right shows the lower mask again set over the yellow Monokote bands. 

I crossed my fingers and used Rustoleum 2X Gloss White. I've had a bad history using white Rusto 2X, sometimes it sprays out a rough flat chalk no matter how long you shake the can. I wanted to match the white I used back in 2012.

This time it went on smooth.

On the left is the tape lifts. The paint ridge is "hidden" by the yellow trim edge and raised plate thickness.

Here's the finished patch and paint.

You can see a slight ridge where the tubes were joined. I did a better job of filling the ridge the first time around.

The next time I print decals I can add the missing wordage. That will take the focus off the slight tube joint bump.

Wolverine Phoenix AIM-54A, Fix!, Part 6, Filling The Tube Joint

Some CWF was set in place on the tip of a dull knife blade much the same way I normally fill a tube seam.

Some masking tape was set down surrounding the filler line so I wouldn't sand too wide an area around the fill line. 400 grit was used to sand the filler to surface.

The filled seam was masked off about 1/4" on both sides to direct the filler/primer spray. I didn't want primer anywhere else except on the seam.

When the tape was removed the filler/primer was left on the seam area.

400 grit was used to sand the filler/primer to surface. The gray was only left in the low areas. 

This probably won't be an invisible fill but will look better than the long body tube.

Wolverine Phoenix AIM-54A, Fix!, Part 5, Gluing Together The Tubes

My older Bob's Epoxy was dried up. I rarely use epoxy on LPR builds.

I did want epoxy for this one. I would hate to have the upper tube freeze up in the wrong position. The upper rectangle details have to line up with the four fins.

Epoxy allows you some working time. It is slippery and will drip! Don't use too much where drips can form. Wear gloves when using Epoxy. Some people have allergies and it can really tear up your skin.

Notice the drawn A ---------A pencil line. After I lined up the upper rectangle plates with the fins, the pencil line was drawn for alignment.

Epoxy was mixed up and spread around the inside of the lower tube. The upper tube was slid into place and turned until the pencil marks lined up.

I also spread a thin coat of epoxy around the inside end of the body tube. The epoxy was spread with a stick off a Q-tip, trying to keep it as even a coat as possible.

A review on rocketreviews.com said there can be some motor charring. The epoxy should protect the back end a bit.

Wolverine Phoenix AIM-54A, Fix!, Part 4, Peeling & Squaring Up

This is the 4" extension glued 2" over the coupler.

If I cut through just the tube I can still use the original coupler.

On the left, the outside layer of the tube is carefully peeled off.

On the right, the coupler is starting to show. I was surprised how most of the coupler didn't have much glue. On the original build - after sliding the tube segments together, the glue was pushed towards the bottom.

The coupler was 4" long, 2" extend out the bottom.

Little bits of glue still remain towards the low end. This was sanded clean with 220 grit on a block.

The lower cut above the fins was sanded flat using a block.

This low end can be squared up - the upper part can't with the coupler in place. I tried to get as straight a cut as I could.

Wolverine Phoenix AIM-54A, Fix!, Part 3, Tube Cuts

At the pencil lines - 

A straight piece of 110 lb. cardstock was wrapped around the tube and taped closed.

Tape was also added to the bottom edge to keep the cardstock guide still while cutting.

I started with a razor blade but switched over to my X-Acto knife with a new #11 blade.

The cardstock guide edge made the cut pretty easy to do.

As always, don't try to cut through a tube with a single pass. Ease up on the knife. It should take a few rotations of the tube to cut completely through.

TIP: Turn the tube under the blade. Keep the knife blade still. 

This was a pretty clean cut. 

With the upper tube removed, repeat the second cut at the line 4" above this lower cut.

Wolverine Phoenix AIM-54A, Fix!, Part 2, Measure & Mark

The only decals that will be lost when removing the 4" of body tube is this small one.

I took a picture with a ruler reference so I can home print something later at the correct size.

The upper launch lug will be cut off and replaced later. 

Slice off most of the lug just above the glue fillets, then remove the fillet areas.

The Estes kit had two 1" long, 3/16" diameter launch lugs.

This Wolverine kit included two, 2" long 3/16" diameter lugs.

I marked the tube at the body tube joint (right side pencil mark) -

then 4" below that. These will be the two cut lines.

The inside coupler is 4" tall. After the cuts, there should be 2" of coupler (half) extended down out of the top tube. 

Wolverine Phoenix AIM-54A, Fix!, Part 1, What Happened?

Here's one I assembled in 2012, the Wolverine Phoenix.

It's a clone of the big Estes Phoenix kit, #1380. 

There was a glitch in the pre-production kit I received. 

The model is made up of two BT-80 body tubes, the lower tube should be 14" long, the upper tube, 7.6" long. Both tube lengths are joined by a coupler. 

In my "kit" the lower body tube was sent at its original length of 18". I assumed the tubes were the correct length and assembly followed.

Having never built a Phoenix rocket before, it didn't think anything was amiss until I went to apply the decals. The open mid section ended up  about 4" too long!

While building, I also drew up the kit instructions for Uncle Mike's Rocket Shack/Wolverine Rocketry.

Here's a link to the first build from finish to start: CLICK HERE

This project is to cut out the extra four inches as cleanly as I can.

The scrap tube will have to be peeled off the coupler. Cleaned up then rejoined (hopefully) at the right length. I might lose the upper launch lug. I can home print and replace the small black decals in the middle.

This has bugged me for years! The model has never been flown.

Wolverine Jayhawk Build, Finished?

This Wolverine kit is available from Uncle Mike's Rocket Shack: CLICK HERE

As mentioned earlier, it reminds me of the old Centuri Wolverine kit without the fiber fins or cardstock tail cone. To see the Centuri instructions: CLICK HERE

I still haven't painted the nose cone tip black.

This mask requires a strip of masking tape (I use Scotch tape) cut in a smooth arc shape. It usually takes a few tries to get the radius of the arc cut correct.

The white decal underlay really sets off the decals.

The upper body and nose cone.

This is a good build for those looking for an easier, BT-50 based semi-scale Jayhawk.

 

Wolverine Jayhawk Build, Part 9, Nose Cone Decal Wrap

Placing this type of nose cone decal can be tricky - 

TIPS: Notice how it is cut out. The inside edge cuts are rounded.

This long red band is narrow, round out the inside corners. Cutting tight into the corners can start a tear.

Before soaking - Do some dry wraps to fins out how far down the decal wrap will start. When you find the place where the ends match up, lightly mark that line with a pencil. I mark a little outside the decal area. If the decal is set over a pencil mark you can't erase it later on! 

This is one of the few times I use Micro Sol.

There may be some folds along the top of the red line.

After the decal dries from the initial transfer, roll (don't rub) some Micro Sol over the decal with a Q-tip. Let dry and check the decal. It may require another application to soften up the clear coat on the decal.

Wolverine Jayhawk Build, Part 8, Decals!

The decals don't have a white undercoat.

They'll look okay as is, but there is a good work-around.

Here I've taped the decal to a window with bright sunlight behind it.

A white decal sheet was set on top of that.

Trace just inside the Star and Bars outside blue border line.

Cut out the white decal. On this type of use, no clear coat is needed on the white.

Set down the white piece. Without the clear coat it will transfer but feel a little slimy. Let dry before laying down the kit decal on top.

Set the star and bars decal over the white piece. Done! 

On the back side the roll pattern decal will need to be notched to work around the launch lug.

I should have looked ahead and maybe glued the launch lug higher up on the tube.

TIP: It's easier to notch a decal while it is still on the backing sheet - before soaking in water. Just be careful cutting those inside notch corners. Don't give the decal any reason to tear.

After the decal dries, the overlap on the body tube is cut with a single edge razor blade. 

Set the blade into the glue fillet and use no more pressure than needed to cut through the thin decal. Don't cut into the paint.

Carefully remove the overlap using your knife blade tip.

Wolverine Jayhawk Build, Part 7, White Undercoats

Filler/Primer was sprayed and sanded to surface.

Notice that any remaining filler/primer was scraped off the root edge fin gluing line.

White undercoats are important - 

1. They brighten up final finish colors

2. It shows any rough areas that might need to be cleaned up before the final color is sprayed.

Here's what I mean about rough areas after the white undercoat.

I honestly don't know what happened here. (How many times have you asked yourself that!)

The rough area was sanded smooth and would require another coat of undercoat white. 

I didn't want to re-shoot the entire model. 

TIP: The picture on the right shows a "floating" mask. A hole was torn in a paper mask and was taped so the edges wouldn't touch the surface. The paper mask was about 1/4" above the surface.

You can do this with a quick shot of filler/primer or if the area isn't too rough, just the white undercoat. This isn't recommended for the final darker color. Any rough or raised edge can be lightly sanded and feathered into the surrounding area after the paint dries.

After the small white shot was sanded the overall orange was sprayed.

I still have to paint that nose cone tip black. 

Wolverine Jayhawk Build, Part 6, Wing Tip Gluing

Here's the wing tips before and after sanding the filler/primer.

Note the filler/primer left in the remaining balsa grain.





The inside glue line is sanded to remove the filler/primer for better adhesion.

Some 400 grit sandpaper was wrapped around a Q-tip for cushioned width control.

I drew a pencil line at the front and rear center points of the wing tip for easier visual placement.
The tips were glued in place and centered.






You can let the glue dry while standing them up on a tabletop.

Wolverine Jayhawk Build, Part 5, Fit & Fill

Before filling the balsa,
Check the fit to be sure the wing tip is perpendicular or at a 90 degree angle to the larger wing fin. Sand and square up the outside edge of the wing if needed.








The engine mount tube will extend 1/8" out the back. It's not glued in yet - 
Don't forget to fill the visible seam on the engine mount tube.

On the left, CWF has been brushed on the balsa nose cone.

On the right is after the filler/primer has been sanded down.
I'm squaring up the nose cone shoulder edge. Pull the nose cone out slightly. Run a folded piece of 400 grit sandpaper around the open joint to sharpen the shoulder lip and smooth the edge of the body tube.






Here's the engine mount glued in with 1/8" of the engine tube extending out the back.

Wolverine Jayhawk Build, Part 4, Screw Eye & Parachute

The screw eye is screwed into a dowel that you glued into the nose cone base. This makes a very strong screw eye attachment.

I placed some glue in the nose cone base hole and pressed the dowel into place. I didn't press it all the way in, I wanted to sand the dowel end flush with the base of the nose cone.
OOPS: After it was glued in I realized the dowel was glued in backwards! The drilled screws eye hole was inside the nose cone.
I knew I'd never get it back out, so another small hole was drilled for the screw eye attachment.

Eight parachute reinforcement discs are supplied, only six are needed.
I wanted to be sure these were plastic, permanent discs so I tried to tear one of the extra disks. It did rip, telling me it was a paper disk.

I'd prefer stronger disks, so I switched them out for Avery plastic disks.

The instructions tell you to place the disks 1/4" from the edge. I don't see any reason to do this. The table covering plastic can stretch if pulled, I put the disks closer to the corners.

TIP: Because of the stretch, the shroud line hole was punched close to the outside of the inner disk circle.

TIP: Some tablecloth covering plastic sheeting has a smooth side and a textured side. Attach your discs to the smooth side for better adhesion.

Wolverine Jayhawk Build, Part 3, Kevlar & Engine Mount

This Kevlar is plenty strong, but braided Kevlar can unravel.

TIP: To stop the unraveling, just wipe some white or wood glue on the last 1/2" on each end.
DO NOT USE SUPER GLUES on any string! It will run down the fibers, stiffen the cord making it brittle.

The Kevlar loop isn't pulled up tight against the upper centering ring until after the glue fillet is added.

Pull up on the end of the line and press the Kevlar loop right into the glue fillet.
Be sure to press down and "seat" the knot close - If the knot is too high it could bulge out the BT-50 body tube when the mount is glued in.

When you draw up kit instructions, you follow the direction of the vendor. I didn't agree with the centering ring spacing. That being said, the rocket will perform just fine assembled the way the instructions show.

I did want more open space below the lower centering ring for easier movement of the engine hook. The way the rear centering ring is glued as shown here, inserting the engine could be difficult.



TIP: On a 20/50 engine mount, glue the lower ring higher up or 1" from the bottom.

There isn't much room for engine hook flex between the BT-20 and BT-50 tube as it is. Setting the lower centering ring higher up allows for easier movement of the engine hook.