Estes Condor #0807 Build, Part 14, Vertical Stabilizers & Wing Tips

I found myself referring to the face card picture a few times. These are not a standard fin layout.

This was probably a prototype model, not a production kit.

All wing and wing tips are rounded. The instructions only say to round the wings and wing tips. Even the edges of the glider balsa remain square.

I sanded away a little more of the gluing line. 

There is some 400 grit rolled around a Q-Tip.

Here's the vertical stabilizers in position. 

I haven't sanded the glue line on the outside surfaces yet.

The wing tips are glued in place.

On the right - 

Notice the leading edge of the wing tips are a continuation of the large wing leading edge.

Estes Odyssey #7235 Build, Part 25, Gluing On Small Rudders & Launch Lug

Here's the instruction drawing showing the positioning of the underside rudders and launch lug. 

The small rudders are glued in the pencil line boxes drawn earlier.

The part J template is printed on 20 lb. paper, a little thin for a fin position tool. 

To stiffen it up, I glued the guide onto some cardstock with a glue stick.

TIP: If you carefully apply two thin glue contact lines -

You won't have to deal with launch lug fillets, that bubble when the fillet dries.

Keep the two glue lines close together so the pressed out glue won't be seen if it squeezes out when the lug is pressed in place.

Quest/Enerjet Minotaur Q5015 Build, Part 12, SRB Gluing

Before gluing on a SRB - Check the last picture below

Note the pencil line down the SRB gluing area. The pencil line also goes underneath, around the end edge of the body tube. This will help with alignment.

I also extended the pencil line down the main body under the edge of the body tube.

Look close at the picture on the right - those two pencil marks line up.

Here's the first SRB in place.

The instructions recommend using the "Double Glue" technique to place these assemblies. I'd recommend using the double gluing.

It's hard to see the pencil lines down the body tube when the SRB covers it. 

Look down the side to see how even the space is between the SRB and the fin root edge.

On the right - I used my aluminum angle to check the alignment.

I checked the Delta Rockets information in my Alway Rockets Of The World trying to figure out were the specific numbered SRBs go around the main body.

This didn't help much, the Delta II has nine SRBs, this model has six.

The box picture helps a bit - 

Between the fins, going from left to right - 

SRB 6 (Left) and SRB 1(Right), rotate the rocket to the left.

SRB 4 (Left) and SRB 2(Right), rotate the rocket to the left.

SRB 5 (Left) and SRB 3(Right), rotate the rocket to the left.

Estes M.A.V. #7283, Build Part 5, Stickers!

GOTCHA: The instruction shows but doesn't say it - You've got to place the launch lug strip somewhere between two fins.
The illustration shows the launch lug strip set between two fins, but this is a beginner model kit and could be more explicit.





The hatch stickers are centered between the fins.
The die cutting is a little wide for me, the fold shows the separation cut.
I cut the hatch stickers out on the border lines.

I was concerned the stickers might grab before they could be centered. I needed some reference points.
I found the center by cutting a piece of paper the width of the area between the slots. Folded it in half and marked the center.
The center mark was transferred to the fin can at the top and bottom.

A strip of masking tape 7/16" tall was wrapped around the bottom for a bottom edge reference.

Estes Long Tom #3016 Build, Part 13, Sustainer Decals

The large striped wrap goes all the way to the top of the upper tube.

It's hard to see the the picture but the clear overcoat goes beyond the red and black edge.
The inset picture shows the decal with clear border cut off so it can be positioned all the way to the edge of the tube.

I was curious to see if the decals had any white backing. I slid the Estes decal off the backing and it was clear.
This helps decide what to do with the red booster fin stripes later on. They have no white undercoat so they wouldn't be visible on black fins!

I also cut the TM off the LONG TOM decal. There's no reason (as a consumer) for it being there.

Set the stripe wrap down first. With the long wrap on the upper body you can find the correct location for the next decal.

With a pencil, mark the center of the tube area below the long stripe wrap. Mark the center of the LONG TOM name. Use both center marks to easily position and center the decal.

While  the decal is still wet, double check the position visually, not just by the pencil lines. Sometimes you start with the actual center then slightly adjust the decal so it is visually centered.

TLP Pershing #K046 Build, Part 11, Chute Disk

A "Parachute Compartment Disk" is glued in 3" from the back of the upper BT-60 tube. It's not a baffle but keeps the parachute from sliding rearward during boost. This keeps the C/G forward.

A few years ago I had a terrible time trying to get one of these parachute disks into position. It flipped and turned while pushing it into position.

I don't know where I picked up this tip . . .
TIP: Roll up a piece of paper little smaller than the tube size the ring will go in. Tape the rolled paper making a cylinder.
This gives you a flat support end to evenly push the ring in. These type of "shelf" rings will flip around in the tube unless they are pressed in place with something like the rolled paper tube shown here.
Mark the rolled cylinder at 3" or whatever the instructions call for.

If the ring is loose, apply some glue into the tube and remove the excess leaving a thin coat to grab the ring edge. You'll want to let the glue dry before pushing the ring in.

Push the ring in up to the pencil line on your rolled paper tube.
Apply a glue fillet drop by drop on the end of a rounded dowel.
Set a drop of glue and smooth it into a fillet using the end of the rounded dowel.

Mars Snooper Build Part 24 Pods

The pods were sprayed with primer off the model.
I'm holding onto the nose cone tip, my hand is inside a grocery bag.

The back half of the pod was sprayed. After it dried, the sharp side was sprayed.


After it dried, the primer was sanded.

The pod was set against the fin and marked for the trailing edge position. The trailing edge is glued about 1/2" from the bottom of the Bt-5 pod tube.

Using 220 grit on a block, this gluing line was sanded off, to about 1/16" on either side of the line. The line was re-drawn again for gluing.



From the rear, this is the pod glued on the fin.

For easier alignment, extend the lines beyond the tick marks.
You wouldn't be able to glue the pods on straight if your alignment line was totally covered up by the fin.

260 Space Booster Build Part 21 Decals

I'm getting better at printing half sheets of decal paper.
I've made it a point of always printing out more than needed, in case I screw one up. In this case, four USAF and four U S AIR FORCE were printed. I actually need two of each, one on either side of the model.

Expand the picture and you'll see the light pencil tick on the body tube next to the "R" in the word AIR. That's the midpoint from the black band to the top of the tube.
The U S AIR FORCE decal was measured and the center was found at the middle of the letter "R" in the the word "AIR".

When placing decals, you work against the clock. I'd rather know where the center is on both pieces before soaking the decal. This makes for a quicker, more accurate placement.




Once you are sure the decal is centered next to the pencil tick mark, look down the length of the tube to be sure it is vertically straight.

Spool Rocket Build Part 7 Gluing CDs

Mix up a small amount of epoxy.

Here it's applied it to the flat surface of the centering rings for gluing to the lower CD.
Press the CD onto the epoxy bead and let dry.




When gluing the upper CD to the upper centering ring, be sure to line up the launch rod holes. I used a length of rod to make sure both rings were in line.
To finish up, I added a epoxy fillet on the exposed ends of the motor mount tube that extended beyond the tops of the CDs.

Spool Rocket Build Part 5 Motor Mount and Lug Hole Position

When you get close to the correct diameter, 220 grit wrapped around an engine casing can help sand the hole large enough to fit the motor mount tube.




Dry fit the motor mount assembly and check the fit of the tube and centering rings against the CDs.
No Epoxy yet!




A hole is drilled in both CDs to allow for the launch rod. I didn't think a launch lug would be needed, the launch rod would simply go through two holes, one in each CD.

I marked the lug hole position with a marker.
Next post - alignment and drilling the lug hole.

Starlight Jayhawk Build Part 19 Canard Placement

This shows the canards in place.

The canard on the left is set in it's hole, no glue yet.

Here's the dry-fit Jayhawk up 'till now.

I'm still deciding whether or not to paint the nose cone before glueing them in. If I glued them on after painting the black there won't be any tricky masking.

Starlight Jayhawk Build Part 18 Canard Placement

Using the same small pin vise, a hole was drilled into the root edge of both canards. While drilling, keep turning and checking the canard to make sure the drill is going in straight.

Two pins ends were cut off to about 3/8" long, a little shorter than the picture shows.

Glue the cut pins into the holes you already glued with CA.

Keep the glue in the holes and not on the root edge. You want to keep that edge smooth so you'll get a good fit against the nose cone curve.

Apogee Heli-Roc Build Part 9 Fins and Launch Lug

The fins are glued in place, 1/2" from the rear of the BT-5 tube.

Here again a square piece of paper was taped around the tube to be sure all the fins are at the same height. Using a paper guide like this helps when the fins aren't glued even with the base of the body tube.

A launch rod was set beside the two launch lugs for alignment. Sometimes I'll run the rod through the lugs.

Either way, lightly tape the rod to the body tube.

Lug position is critical on this rocket. You can see how the rod passes right beside the balsa reinforcement strip.