Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 7, The Scoop

Here's a good sized chunk of cardstock from another build. Save leftover kit cardstock!

It's hard to find high density cardstock that is .050" thick.

I probably should have cut the gun "rings" from this thickness stock. Maybe I'll go back and remake them.

On the left are the back and sides of the scoop.

On the right are the two remaining smaller rings.

The curved back of the scoop didn't match the curvature of the BT-55 tube.

I wrapped some 400 grit around the tube and corrected the arc.

On the right is the better fit.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 3, Making The Cardstock Rings

Check a few size rotary punches until you get a friction fit on a 1/8" dowel.

To find the center hole position,

Position the tube over the center of the ring and very lightly press.

This will leave a small circle impression in the disk without cutting through.

On the left - The first impression is a little off center.

Try again using the first impression and making small corrections.

Six of the larger disk rings were punched.

Two smaller rings will also be made in the same way.
 

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 21, Side Fins

The "R" braces are glued down the centerline of the larger side fins.

You might be tempted to glue the brace as pictured on the left, Glue the sharper end forward as shown on the right.  

I glued the R brace tip a hair over the top of the side fin.

This will end up even after some sanding.

After the glue dried, the overhanging tip was sanded even with the side fin top.

Some CWF filled the joint seam remaining then sanded after it dried.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 20, Nose Cone Fix

There was a recess divot in front of the canopy.

It looks like the kit assembler cut off a mold line. 

I'll fill it with medium Super Glue. Set a drop of glue in the recess. Let dry horizontally, the glue drop can run.   

After the glue dries,

Sand to follow the round curve of the cone. 

The recessed lines are lightly filed using a triangular diamond file. Don't go too deep!

The recess lines are back, not perfect but better than not having them at all.

A shot of filler primer showed areas that needed touchup.

The second photo shows another mold line to fill towards the tip.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 19, Filling The Tab Recess

The top picture shows the CWF on the tabs sanded down.

The sanded tabs were given a controlled shot of filler/primer.

The filled/primer is sanded down using 400 grit on a sanding block.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 18, Filling The Tab Recess

Here's the balsa plug fill on the upper end of the N piece.

Two fill pieces go into the L and M wing pieces.

After the glue dries, the raised fills are sanded to surface using 400 grit on a sanding block.

The T piece tab is a bit short. It'll also get a balsa fill segment.

The inset shows the tab before and after lowering the height of the tabs. 

Like on the wing, this allows for a thicker plug piece.

The T piece is fitted after the wing is glued on. 

For now, glue only the filler segment. 

With the T piece all the way in the slot, press in the filler piece until it butts up against the T piece tab inside.

Remove the T piece without gluing it in leaving the plug in place at the correct depth.

After the glue dries, sand the plug to surface.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 17, Filling The Tab Recess

I wish the tabs on the S pieces were longer! If the tabs extended past the flat face of the wing, they could be simply sanded to surface.

The tab recess is shallow and could probably be filled with CWF. I prefer something stronger. 

I sanded down the tabs so the balsa plug would have a deeper fit.

Some 1/8" wide stripes were cut from the leftover fin stock.

These were cut a bit long and sanded for a tight fit.

I've done this before when the tabs were short on the Super Orbital Transport.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 16, Filler/Primer On The Balsa Parts

Here's all the parts taped down to scrap cardboard for a shot of filler/primer.

Notice the thin masking tape strips over the gluing area slots on the Q pieces. There is tape over the glue tabs on the T pieces.

With the S braces dry fitted, this will mask the gluing contact areas.  

After the filler/primer shot,

the glue tabs have no spray.

The wing showing the clear glue areas for the S braces.

The end tip Q pieces had a measured strip of masking tape over the gluing area.

The open CWF strip isn't sealed and glue can be absorbed. The gray filler/primer seals the rest of the balsa.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 15, More Pre-glue Fitting

The low edges of the intake tube will set into the fillet joints of the wings.

Looking ahead, I checked how straight the sides were using an aluminum angle. This will require some sanding to get the sides straight. notice the pencil mark - 

The visible end edges of the intake can be cleaned up with a wipe of CA glue and light sanding. This removes the fuzz and sharpens the looks.

Don't wipe any CA glue where wood glue will follow.


 

I set the vertical brace in place to mask the gluing areas for the filler/primer shoot.

The underside tabs aren't tall enough to fully fill the notch! This will need more filling after gluing the braces in. No glue yet, wait until after sanding the filler/primer.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 14, Tube End Fitting

The main tube and the back of the intake tube will be glued even.

With the intake vanes in place - setting the intake tube to the low end of the main body tube, the edges are uneven.

Set the high end of the intake even with the main tube end. This will end up with a slight overhang of the intake tube sides.

Tape the intake tube sides down for stability when sanding.

Using 220 grit,

Sand the intake overhang even with the main tube end.

A dry fit of the assemblies -

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 13, Intake Vanes

Think about what will be seen on the finished rocket.

The intake vanes might float above the main body tube - 

The base of the vanes should contact the body tube. Any gaps at the top of the crescent pieces will be covered by the tapered intake tube.

Glue the intake ribs on one at a time and let them dry one at a time. Make sure all the bottom edges contact the tube.

A dry fit of the intake tube set over the intake assembly.

I'm in the middle of filling the seams on the tapered intake tube.

The raised intake tabs all touch the front of the curved intake tube.

Estes Cosmic Interceptor Build, Part 12, Intake Vanes Fit

Here's the laser cut intake vane cardstock.

The pieces aren't marked, they vary slightly in size and length.

The picture on the right side shows a dry fit. 

The long pieces are too loose when set in into the AA and BB part notches.

 

I like to seal the exposed edges with glue and sanding. It makes a big difference on the finished model.

The area below the pencil line is what will be exposed.

The right side pic shows a round bead of glue after removing the excess. There is only glue on the edge, not on the sides. The glue in the picture is already half dried.

Sanding with 400 grit smooths out any irregularities.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 45, Adding More Details

TIP: Contact cement dries yellow. Be carful not to get any excess glue where it could be seen later on the finished model. 

The inside surface the propulsion units get more details.

Glue the small rectangles first, covering the rectangle line outline on the decal placed earlier.

The rear of the dowel end sets into the circle printed on the decal. The front end stacks on the low end of the rectangle.

Now we can concentrate on all the other decals that aren't covered with cardstock or dowels.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 44, Adding Details

Immediately at the rear of the glued on caps,

Wrap the marking guide around the tube with the arrow in line with the bottom node.

Here's a dry fit of the rectangles. The front is at the halfway point of the shoulder cap ring.

I marked with pencil the glue contact points of the rectangle.

These are the areas to get contact cement, inside from the edge. 

Contact cement is applied to both parts and allowed to dry. 

Don't use the big brush that comes attached to the bottle cap. I used Q-tips to control how much glue was set down.

Touch both dried glue areas and contact cement will grab! 

I used tweezers to place the rectangles.

Here's the finished assembly.

Notice a little yellow discoloration on the lower corner of the top rectangle. That's a bit of contact cement and will need a paint touchup. 

Be careful when applying contact cement. Strings of glue can end up on outside surfaces.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 42, Painting The Details

The raised, thick cardstock rectangles should have been painted the darker gray and then glued on the model. 

These aren't difficult to mask now, it's just some extra work that could have been avoided if I'd planned ahead!

The rectangles were outlined with Sharpie inked Scotch tape.

Brown tape widened the mask,

Plastic grocery bags covered the rest of the model.

With the masks removed there is very little touchup needed.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 37, Sensor Stem Detail, Funky Glue Putty

This works best with yellow wood glue, not white glue - 

Place a drop of glue in the heel of your left hand.

Spread the glue around using your right hand index finger. Let is set up for 20 seconds or so -

As it starts to dry, the glue puddle will gum up.

Continue working the glue into a small ball. Make it as round as possible. Make a few in different diameters.

Let dry overnight.

Drill a tapered hole using a #11 style blade hobby knife. 

This hole should fit onto the tapered dowel.

Here's the sensor stem detail ball in place and shot with a white undercoat.

It's probably too large, but much better than a lopsided glue drop.