Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build, Finished

This was something very different from Estes!

A good build challenge with interesting kit materials.

The view from the top above,

The the view of the underside with the black vinyl covering on the inside tube.

The canopy is a tough mask.

The metallic paint worked well here.

The front end with the (display) landing skid in place.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build, Part 26, Ends & Edges

The inside engine retainer ring (Part H) is glued onto the end of the motor tube using medium CA glue.

Here's how the ends of the two shock cords are tied in a loop.

Both are jointed to the parachute shroud lines. I used a separate length of #10 embroidery thread to tie them together.

This could be a problem - 

With both of the shock cords at the same length, the two body segments would bump into each other after ejection.

I'd recommend two different shock cord lengths so these could hang one above the other.

Here you can see how the parachute is held in the compartment. The top fin prevents the chute from falling out the back end during boost.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 25, Decals & Black Trim

I wasn't sure of the position of two decals.

The only place I could see them going is on the bottom of the fin unit.

I built two of these so one was placed as shown on the right - 

The other with the DARC-1 was placed as shown in the second picture.

I didn't like the upper tube area with the primered tube visible from the bottom.

This would be difficult to mask and wrap now.

It took a little work, but the end result was good.

I used my Contact Paper Blackboard Covering to wrap and cover the tube. The Contact paper has come in very handy over the years. Any self adhesive black vinyl could work. 

Two separate pieces were used. One on the forward tube and a second piece over the shock cord retainer ring.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 24, Decals

Here's the two side decals, repeated on the other side.

The large wing decals are cut just inside the dashed lines.

Cut the root edge close to the triangles, shown in the last picture.

The Estes decals can be thin.

Wet the decal position before soaking the decal.

The water on the surface allows some repositioning.

If you aren't used to water slide decals - 

Notice the blue backing sheet stays with the decal as it is slid into position. When this large decal was started, it was only slid off the backing about 1/2".

The edge of the decal was set into the root edge of the fin. Follow by sliding the backing paper out and off the decal.

You should be able to move the decal a bit to get it in final position. Blot with a paper towel, then roll out any air bubble with a Q-tip form the center out.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 23, Cleaning Up The Mask Lines

Here's a before and after the rough edge is gently pushed back into the larger black area.

Don't scrape off the paint, you can push the black back without removing the light gray underneath if the black isn't totally dried. The light gray underneath should be totally dry.

Here I'm doing some paint edge pushing with a #11 blade. 

I still needed to do some paint touch-up of the light gray.

I used Ace Hardware Light Gray Premium gloss enamel.

At this point I don't mask and re-spray the entire model.

A Baggie is pushed into a small mixing cup. A pool of paint is sprayed into the cup. When paint is sprayed in a puddle, it takes longer to dry so you'll have enough working time.

TIP: Notice the tape roll on the bottom, sticky side out. The paint cup is pressed down onto my work table. The tape prevents the cup from tipping and spilling the paint.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 22, Canopy Mask

The canopy mask was time consuming.

Before anyone makes the suggestion, I don't use the expensive Tamiya tape. Scotch tape does the job for me and saves some money.

One way to mask this circular shape is to use many small pieces of marked Scotch tape.

The canopy is outlined,

Brown utility masking tape surrounded the masked canopy. All the remaining light gray will be covered before spraying with black.

Before spraying the second color,

TIP: Go around the edges with a Q-tip to seal the edges. This give a softer, more even pressure than a fingernail could.

Be careful, note some of the ink from the tape has come off on the Q-tip. Rotate the Q-tip and don't transfer that ink onto the paint.

I decided to paint the nose of the shroud gloss black and the canopy metallic black. 

The mask line towards the front of the shroud wasn't perfect. I had to go and do some "paint line pushing" and touch up to get the line sharper.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 21, Masking

The front end of the engine mount/fin unit was masked off.

I painted my DARC-1 builds light gray and black, the web page illustrations are closer to light gray/dark gray. I noticed this after the builds were painted.

I did some Scotch tape masks. I used a wide Sharpie and drew an arc to mask the curved nose of the shroud.

The curved mask tape went around the nose. Cutting it on an arc will (hopefully) give you a straight line when set around the cone.

Note there is some lifting of the tape at the center reflection. I had to go back and cut a different arc to better fit the contour.

Here you can see the launch lug hole - the extra work forming and filling really paid off.

This rectangle around the launch lug opening remains light gray with black surrounding it. It has straight sides, but needed some smaller pieces of tape set into the upper clipped corners.

These tape lines are the outside edges. Plenty of brown masking tape is use to fill the open areas.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 20, Pre-Painting

I didn't want to get paint on the inside of the shroud so paper towels were pushed into the interior. A long strip of masking tape was placed around the inside edge, not shown here.

Here you can see the tape along the edge.

I only had primer sprayed around the back by the fins to be sure the fillets were smooth. The fillets took a little sanding.

The landing skid is ready for a white undercoat.

The dowel is masked to keep paint off the dowel and give me something to hold onto.

After a first coat of white, I needed a backing to get the sandpaper into a few tight areas.

A few wraps of tape went over the sharp side of a single edge razor blade. 400 grit was set over the taped blade to get into the tight corners.

After the white undercoat was sanded, another white coat followed.

The final gray color followed that. 

TIP: Note how the two skids (I was building two kits) are "hinge" taped. This allowed me to spray one side, then fold over exposing the other side for spray. Using this tape hinge, I can flip over to spray the other side without the piece touching the cardboard backing.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 19, Fin Gluing

Here's the left side fin with the "U" piece to set the angle.

Notice the root edge of the fin against the body - you can get a better fit.

The root edge forward and behind the TTW tab can be sanded at an angle to match the curvature of the shroud.

Enlarge this shot to see the angle on the right side picture.

Here's a better fit of the root edge.

The fin was glued on with CA glue.

Fabri-Tac glue was used for a fillet along the root edge.

It's a little tough to get the Fabri-tac fillet smooth, so it will need some sanding after it dries.

Construction is complete - 

On to masking and paint.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 18, Gluing In The Recovery Compartment

The recovery compartment was dry fitted into the top of the shroud body.

I traced around the inside edge for a placement guide before the glue was used.

The recovery compartment and centering ring contact points are both cardstock so wood glue was used on the front edge.

After that wood glue dried on the front edge - 

Medium CA glue was applied along the cardstock and plastic contact points with a toothpick.

Squeeze out a good sized drop of CA on some scrap cardboard. Dip the toothpick tip in the CA glue.

Run the wet glue tip down the joint.  Repeat until the entire contact line is attached. 

A bead of CA glue takes longer to dry than some other applications where the glue soaks into the surfaces. Be patient and hold the compartment in place until the glue sets up.   

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 17, Fitting The Landing Skid

On the left is one of the "Y" pieces.

Both pieces got the same glue bead to seal the laser cut edges and smooth sanding.

On the right is the bottom of the skid after sanding the dowel flat with the bottom of the skid. CWF filler was applied and sanded.

Note I have a grocery bag over my left hand for a close spraying of filler/primer. I only need to prime the bottom face. The bag covers the side and keeps paint off my hand.

I hope you haven't glued the upper "Z" pieces on yet.

By itself, the skid will flop over without the Z pieces holding it straight.

Gluing them on before sliding the skid in place will give you a poor fit. 

Slid in the skid and hold it straight up from the body.

Set a Z piece in place and lightly press against the body. Notice the position.

Remove the Z piece and apply light glue to the back. You can add more glue on later.

While holding the skid vertical - press the glued Z piece in place.

After the glue sets up, repeat with the other side. 

Here's the finished landing gear skid, ready for a white undercoat.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 16, Final Lug Fill, Clay & Plug

The tapered lug end required a few more forming passes using the sharpened dowel.

Trim, spin the dowel, raise the thin lip and trim again.

The joints along the lug and plastic wall was filled with some medium CA applied with a toothpick. Sand smooth. Repeat until the joint is smooth.

I pre-formed the clay weight to the shape of the body tube, a rounded cylinder.

Press into the interior body tube.

Push in place with a flat end dowel.

The laminated bulkhead cap is glued in the end of the body tube, even with the tube edge.

Estes DARC-1, #7307 Build Part 15, Fitting The Central Tube & Launch Lug

I used medium CA to glue the central core tube assembly into the shroud. Try some dry fits before using any glue.

Apply glue around the front edge of the tube and around the upper sides of the centering ring.

The launch lug extension is CA glued after all is slid in place.

Medium CA glue will lock the lug in place and stiffen the straw for easier cutting.

Use a single edge razor blade to trim off the lug. Make the first cut a little long, not right up against the shroud body. Trim to size after the initial cut, when you can better see the lug/shroud joint. 

The lug edge could look rough - 

Use a sharpened dowel to raise the thin Mylar skin up for additional sanding.

Apply some Ca glue with a Q-tip. This hardens the thin Mylar skin for easier sanding and removal.

Some of the seam gap can be filled with medium CA, like the shroud seams were filled earlier on.

When the CA has dried, sand the glue bead to surface with a sanding block.