Estes Shipping Container

Some might find this interesting - 

In that box are three finished Black Brant XXII models. This is how built models are now sent back to Estes.

There is a LOT of bubble wrap surrounding the finished models.

Previously I sent the models back to Penrose in cardboard boxes. It made no difference how much padding was set around the builds, some models were broken up in transit. 

This container should stand up to some rough handling.

You'd Think An Ebay Seller Would Know Better By Now . . .

I recently bought a Quest Striker AGM kit on Ebay. This model has been a favorite and I wanted to build it better this time.
Take a look at the padded shipping bag, we've been down this road before. I knew there was going to be damage even before it was opened up.

Before the kit was opened I responded to the seller through Ebay:

"I just received my Quest Striker AGM kit in the mail.
Please do not send rocket kits (with body tubes) in a padded envelope!







The second picture shows a tear in the back of the bag.The main body tube is bent on both ends requiring me to cut off 3/4" from each side to get a round tube. That is if I can use the tube at all. I haven't opened the kit bag yet.

The third picture shows both ends of the body tube with end crimps on both sides.
Another problem - This is Quest 35mm tubing. Estes tubes cannot be substituted for it. They are not the same diameter.
If I were to order a replacement 35mm tube from Quest directly, I would probably have to pay almost $10.00 for shipping!
I am not happy about the way the model kit was shipped. Rocket kits should be packaged in a box for mailing. I have received many kits sent in boxes with no damage to the parts.
Where do we go from here?"

You'd think a seller named "Wise Guy Hobbies" would be a little smarter than this!
Here's the email exchange -

Wise Guys Hobbies:

I apologize for the issue I don't see any damage to the rocket from the photos. I can partially refund you for the tube or you can return the item.

My Response:

If you were to do a partial refund to cover replacement of the tube -
If ordered from Quest, here's the cost with shipping directly copied from their website:
One T35 body tube - $2.90
Estimated Tax Total $0.00
Estimated Postage Total $9.00
Estimated Basket Total $11.90

You can't see the crimping of the tube ends in the photo? Look at the last picture on the left side. The ends are bent in and the tube strength is compromised.
The tube is not usable. If the bent areas were cut off the model would lose 1 1/2" in overall length when assembled.

Wise Guys Hobbies:

I can split the cost of the tube with shipping or you can send the item back I can't justify that much of a loss on a low dollar item for a bend I can't really make out from your photos.

My Response:

The tube ends are crimped and unacceptable. Looking through the bag I can now see a crease towards the middle. You were in error by sending the kit is a padded envelope.
Why should I be the one to absorb the cost of your bad packing?
If you were to pay half of the replacement cost and shipping I would would still be out an additional $5.95. If I were to send it back, do you pay the return shipping?

In the end, the vendor said they send a return shipping label. I never received it!
I had planned to send the kit back in the same crappy envelope.
I have some shorter Quest style 35mm tubes and could make up some couplers I guess.
I'm not going to make up an order for single tube.
Maybe I'll pick up the 18" 35mm tube when the Quest Jet C and D engines are for sale.

Steer clear of Wise Guys Hobbies on Ebay!

Shipping A Model Rocket, Part 2

Here's how the model will fit in the box.
The rocket body will slide in from the top and the platform will set against the bottom. The model is raised up and the fins are suspended above the platform and away from the box corner sides.

If the nose cone is removed you can get by with a much smaller length box. The smaller the box the stronger it will be.

I did have a problem on this one. The trailing fins raised the body up and away from the engine casing.
A 1/2" dowel was cut and glued into the casing. A second casing was cut down a bit and glued onto the dowel.

Slide the model over the casings and mark where the engine hook bend ends up. Look close and you'll see the notch cut into the casing. This allows the hook to lock over and hold the model securely on the platform.

From here the model is wrapped loosely with clean copy paper. The capsule and tower were wrapped in a paper cone. You don't want to have bubble wrap or any plastic in contact with the model paint. Plastic filler can break down and stick to the finish.

Slide the model into the box, all the way to the bottom. I use wadded up plastic grocery bags to cushion the sides of the model and keep the upper end centered in the box.

Mark the box with "FRAGILE" on all sides. That may not help but I sleep better knowing I did all I could. Always insure the model for a little more than it was sold for or what it is worth to you.
In the end - Cross your fingers and GOOD LUCK!

Shipping A Model Rocket, Part 1

This shipping method is just my experience and has worked well for me. Out of the 60 (or so) finished models I've mailed out in the past few years, only one was damaged in transit.
To start, save shipping boxes, cardboard flats and used engine casings.
Throw away Chinese made shipping boxes. The made in USA boxes, such as Uline, are much stronger.

You'll want the rocket suspended in the box with air space and padding on all sides.

The bottom of the rocket is held securely to a raised platform on the bottom of the box.
Cut the platform bottom from cardboard sheet. The flat top should fit into your shipping box. The downward folded sides will raise the model up from the bottom of the box.
In the picture at the right I'm sizing the bottom platform for a slip fit in the box.

Glue in a center support so the rocket won't bounce around:
Notice the "X" in the platform center.
Run a line from the corners of the platform to make the centered X.
Trace around an engine casing.
Cut just inside the pencil line and through just the top layer.
Peel out the cut circle leaving the corrugation and lower layer.

Press the engine casing into the cut circle and remove.
Run a line of glue in the circle and press the casing in. Make sure the casing is vertical.
Follow up with glue fillets.

The casing will go into the engine mount of the rocket and support the model from the bottom of the outside box.