Friday, November 30, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V Detail Pieces S-II Lox Tunnels Step 11 Part 5

File the underside from the 3/16" mark to the center tip on both sides.

After forming the tip to a point.

Taper the to sides down to a point, rounding the sides along the 3/16" line.
The tapered toothpick can be cut to 1 3/16" long (from the pointed end) and the other side tapered as done before.

Make four more S-II Lox Tunnels

Dr. Zooch Saturn V Detail Pieces S-II Lox Tunnels Step 11 Part 4


Next up are the S-II Lox Tunnels.

Mark another flattened dowel to 1 3/16" long. Then mark the ends at 3/16" from each side.

Continue the pencil line around the back flat side of the toothpick at the 3/16" mark.

Mark the center point of the flat side tip. This gives you a center reference for the taper.


Thursday, November 29, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V Detail Pieces S-11 Lox Tunnels Step 11 Part 3

While the instructions don't tell you to do it, I sand the dowels (or toothpicks shown here) flat for a better fit against the wraps and body tube surface. 
This shows the toothpick before and after the sanding.

The top toothpick in the upper picture is a before, the lower toothpick is after sanding down the back.

You’ll need four, ½" long pieces cut. The front end of these are semi-rounded.

Don’t cut the dowel to size yet! It’s easier to round the front end while the dowels are long, you just have more to hold on to.

Again, I used the four sided file to round the front ends.

Form a half circle on the end. At first it’s easier to establish the round shape with the flat side facing you.


Cut the motor to ½" long after forming the front end round.

It’s easier to form the front end round when the stick is longer, it gives you more to hold onto.

Wednesday, November 28, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V Detail Pieces S-IVB APMs Lox Tunnels Step 11 Part 2

The joints were cleaned up and the excess CA glue sanded smooth with the sides of the four sided file.

Mark the underside taper shape 1/16" back from the top.

Sand the front end to a triangle shape.

Looking from the back is the before (left) and after (right) side shaping of the APMs.

Round down the front of the APMs and roll off the front ends.

The one on the right has had the front end rounded off.

Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V Detail Pieces S-IVB APMs Step 11 Part 1

There is a lot of information in Step 11
The detail parts build will go around the page from the top, 11 o'clock position around the page in a counter clockwise direction.

On the left are the S-IVB APMs on my earlier build of the Zooch Saturn V.

These were cut from tongue depressor (or craft stick) wood.
Two rectangular pieces, 3/8" X 3/16" are needed for the bases.
The center “steps” are about 1/16" wide.

The center steps were glued on using CA glue. They were cut longer than the base pieces and will be sanded to the length of the bases.

Dr. Zooch Saturn V - F.G.P. Step 10A Part 6

After the inside of the shroud is covered, go around the end edges. Don’t get the glue on the outside threaded surface.

Lightly sand smooth the rear edge of the nozzle bells on some 400 grit sandpaper.
The F-1 Engines are complete!

Now onto the other details -

Monday, November 26, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V - F.G.P. Step 10A Part 5

In Step 10, the instructions say to “Apply few drops of cyanoacrylate glue to harden the whole thing.”
By simply applying a few drops of glue, you might end up with visible drops of dried glue or an uneven surface on the outside of the nozzle bell.
Many kit instructions would have you apply super glue to the outside of a shroud to harden it up. Again, this could leave you with a rough surface. Sanding the dried glue surface will get you a smooth, hard surface. But with the thread hat bands glued to the shroud you can’t use sandpaper.

TIP: I’d recommend applying the CA glue to the inside of the nozzle shroud. This inside coat will still harden up the card stock nozzle.
Use a Q-Tip to apply a more even coat of CA glue.

Before using the Q-Tip, roll the cotton end between your thumb and forefinger. The cotton strands will in roll one direction and tighten the cotton on the stick. The also compacts any loose cotton fibers onto the cotton ball end.

To use the Q–Tip as a glue applicator you’ll want the cotton rolled into a tighter “ball” so no loose bits are transferred onto the glued surface.

Before adding CA glue to the inside of the nozzle, be sure the nozzle is round! Once you apply the glue it’s harder to change the shape.
Fold over and double up (two layers) a sheet of copy paper.
Squeeze out a drop of medium CA onto the folded over paper.
Dip the cotton end into the glue drop.

Roll the wet cotton end around the inside surface of the nozzle trying to make an even coat.

You’ll have to do the inside of the upper end first then go back for more glue and coat the lower end.

Don’t apply CA glue all the way into the smallest end where white glue will be used later. The CA glue seals the card stock and white glue won’t be so well absorbed. You’ll want a strong glue joint holding these nozzles in place.

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V - F.G.P. Step 10A Part 4

The heat exchanger dowel sits in a recess on the wide center of the F.G.P. exhaust manifold.
Before the F.G.P. totally dries, make a round recess using the end of the supplied dowel.

I had to wet the end of the dowel for it to press into the drying white glue "putty".

Here’s all five finished nozzles. You are given five nozzles on the card stock wrap sheet.
All have the round dowel end recesses and are ready for Step 10B, the heat exchanger pieces.

Only four are used on the finished, flying model. Make the fifth for a backup if one breaks off on a hard recovery.

Dr. Zooch Saturn V - F.G.P. Step 10A Part 3

The "actual size" drawing in the instructions was a little too long when wrapped around the bell.

The pencil lines show how much my pumps were shortened.

Below the instruction drawing is one of my F.G.P. turbine manifolds ready to be set around and over the seam between the upper and lower shrouds.

Roll the ball into a tapered "worm" on a flat surface using your fingertips.

Leave the center area larger than the ends.

Once again, in the instruction drawing the center of the F.G.P. pump seemed too thick.

Even though I made my exhaust manifolds thinner in the middle, it still looked a little fat.

The F.G.P. is drying as these are being formed. By the time I was ready to wrap it around the nozzle bell, it was too dry to stick to the card stock shroud.

I had to wet the dried glue around the center line. That made the manifold stick very well!

Saturday, November 24, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V - F.G.P. Step 10A Part 2

Keep pulling the glue into a ball and roll it round.

You should end up with a ball about 1/4" in diameter.

Questions? Good Questions and a Tip

Here's some questions and answers to Dana who wrote me at:
Question 4 is actually pretty cool idea from Dana -

Hi Dana,

Thanks for writing, I'll do my best to give an answer or two.
My answers are only what has worked for me in the past. If you follow the rocket forums you know that everybody has their own way of doing things.

1. Do you get concerned about the black electrical tape "letting go" (on the motor mounts) after many heat cycles? I was wondering if the tapes' adhesive holds up well to that.

I thought I'd answered this in the comments section on the blog. If not -
I haven't had any problem wth electrical tape releasing over time. I would think that paper masking tape would loosen up long before a vinyl electrical tape would. It's tough to tell, since the tape is covered up once the mount is glued into the body tube.
Somebody on the forums had opened up a an old engine mount where paper masking tape was used. The engine hook was barely held by the deteriorating masking tape. black electrical tape was suggested and I knew it was a better way to go. Heck, it stays on spliced electrical lines for years - if it's properly applied.

2. For your carded models, especially the ones you print on 20lb paper. Do you clear coat them after all is said and done? Mine seem to get dirty easy so I thought about clear coating them but wasn't sure the ink would run.

I don't print carded models on 20 lb. paper, except for the body tube wraps. 110 lb. is used for the fins and "some" wraps. Most builder's who do carded nose cones (I'm not happy with the look of carded "shroud" nose cones) print the cones on 65 lb. card stock.

Definitely clear coat (lighter first seal coat) the printed card stock after printing. Then a heavier coat after the model is made. With an initial lighter clear coat before assembly the glue will still get into the card stock for a better bond. if the card stock is too well sealed, the glue may not old very well. Again, after it's built, do heavier seal coats.

3. Would you try this glue and give me/us your opinion on it? It's called E-6000. You can get it almost anywhere. I have been using it around the house for a while and just LOVE it. I've been slowly implementing it into the rocket hobby and am being impressed there also. I would really like to hear your pro's and con's on it. Here is what I am talking about:

I'll have to check into this later - I'm Mexico right now, getting free Internet off the ship.
Be careful using Super Glues (CA or CYA) when assembling rockets. It'll stick well for a few months, then release! I understand Super Glues were used first in hospitals and medical units. It was developed it to close wounds. It bonds skin, then releases later after the skin has closed up.
Not great for rocketry construction.
I flew my Gooney Honest John once at a club launch. The upper launch lug came off before the model left the rod. The rocket went unstable.

4. Last is not really a question but something I've been doing over the past several years. Whenever I build a model with a big enough motor mount I always put my name and date and whatever else seems pertinent to the rocket written right on the mount. Then, years later when a model needs rebuilt and you pull out the motor mount you can get a quick synopsis of when and what was going on years before when you built the kit. I get a real kick out of some of them. Just an idea.

That is a great idea!
Years ago, I never re-built models, now I do. That's a good way to record when it was first built and any other information about the model.

Thanks for following the blog -

Chris Michielssen

Friday, November 23, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V Funky Glue Putty Step 10A Part 1

On my first Dr. Zooch Saturn V build, I had trouble making the F.G.P. or “Funky Glue Putty”.
I ended up using some of the “Fix-It” two-part epoxy I’d ordered from Apogee.
Making F.G.P. is like anything else, your first attempts may not be usable. Stay with it and after a few tries, you’ll get it.

The instructions tell you to roll the glue between your thumb and forefinger. I found the glue hard to control as it kept rolling farther away from my fingertips. I never ended up with enough of a glue ball to roll the pump in the correct size.
I had better luck making the F.G.P. in the heel of my left hand.

Start with a drop of glue about 3/8" diameter.
In the end, you will have a 1/4" moldable ball of F.G.P.
So it dries a little quicker, spread the glue out into an even coat on the side of your palm..
Let this sit and dry for one minute.

After that full minute of drying, spread it around again keeping it in the same area as before.
Let this dry for another minute. The glue will turn from a wet, gloss to a flat white surface.

Start to draw or pull the drying glue to the center.
Continued in next post -

White Glue or Yellow Glue - Where?

A client had sent me a few models for paint touch-ups. One was the Dr. Zooch Space Shuttle.

I've mentioned a few times before that white glue dries clear.
Titebond and other Yellow wood glues dry yellow.

The wing / body fillet (below the United States) should really have been done with white glue. The yellow fillet is out of place on the white surfaces.

The model was built very well. Unfortunately, there is nothing I can do to remove (or paint over) the yellow fillet.
I could paint over the yellow glue, but trying to do white paint match on card stock would probably look worse than the yellow fillet.

A good rule of thumb -
If you prefer yellow glues, use them on inside surfaces or if the glue fillets will be painted over later.
On visible outside surfaces use white glues. They will dry clear and in this case almost invisible.

I ended up using some "White Out" to brighten the yellow fillet.
The White Out is very opaque and will cover and camouflage the yellow glue.

This wouldn't work on a regular white spray finish, the shuttle body is card stock.

A fillet was added with Titebond Molding and Trim Glue.
This Molding and Trim Glue also dries clear and will help fill and bubble voids.

Thursday, November 22, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V F1 Engines Step 10 Part 6

The instruction drawings show six wraps. But with the recommended 8 1/4" length I was only able to make five thread wraps.

This picture shows four wraps, getting ready for the fifth and last wrap.

If you didn’t use a lot of glue on the string, you’ll be able push it in better alignment after all five wraps are in place.

In the picture I used the side of the toothpick as a spacing guide.
It fit between the wraps and helped make them all more evenly spaced.

This is the back of a finished wrap showing the angled wrap areas.

On the other side, the wraps are straight across and even.
Well, as even as you can make them.

I’m using the tip of the toothpick to make final adjustments to the band spacing. The glue is drying now and moving the string gets harder to do.

Happy Thanksgiving!

I’m having the traditional (American) Thanksgiving in Guatemala!
And yes, it’s as exciting as it sounds.

I’m in a large shipping building "shed" trying to access (really slow)) Internet listening to a 10' LONG Marimba played by eight people.

That’s what you come hear for, to hear traditional Guatemala music - New York, New York and Jambalaya played on the big Marimba.
Perfect Turkey Day atmosphere.

Wednesday, November 21, 2012

Quest 40% Off Sale!

Quest is having another Holiday Sale through next Monday, November 26th.

40% off their retail prices!
Some examples are the Striker AGM kit for $10.79.
The Tomahawk Cruise Missile kit is also on sale for $10.79

The big news is - ALL PARTS ARE AVAILABLE!
If you wanted to build the AVI Nike Tomahawk, the 20mm Tomahawk fin unit is $1.02.
The Nike Smoke fin unit is on sale at $2.76

Get ready for the cheap Dollar Tree 50mm nose cones (made from from a plastic champagne glass)
Those will be on sale around Valentine's Day at the Dollar Tree stores.
The Quest 50mm body tubes fit them almost perfectly, at $3.06 for a 24" long tube.

Still no C6-5 engines!

Dr. Zooch Saturn V F1 Engines Step 10 Part 5

From the shroud line string, four lengths of line are cut. All are 8 1/4" long.

I made the first (extra) nozzle as a practice piece, getting used to the wraps and spacing of the hatbands.

Start your wrap by gluing the thread end at the seam below the upper shroud. Let that first end dry before trying to wrap the thread around the shroud.

I applied glue under the string down about 1"using a toothpick. It doesn’t take much glue to get the thread wrap on. 1" of string is about one wrap around the lower shroud.
You can use the seam as a guide to keep the first thread wrap straight.

Note the nozzle is sitting on the same "coned" dowel I used to help form the upper shroud.

Wrap the string around the lower shroud trying to keep it straight as you go.

That pencil line shows where I stop the first full straight wrap and start to angle the string down for the second wrap.

Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Dr. Zooch Saturn V F1 Engines Step 10 Part 4

Apply a small line of glue to one side of the engine nozzle edge.
Line up the two tab seams. You'll hide these seams later on when they are glued to the rear plate.

While the glue is still wet, roll over the edges smoothing over the seam.

You can actually old the card stock edges while the glue is setting up.
Work from the inside also, pressing out the shroud edge if it get pushed in too far.

Here's a good example of a good fit of the two halves.

This isn't really important, as the seam will be covered up by the turbine pumps later on. Still, a good fit will make a stronger nozzle bell in the end.

The nozzle of a Elmer's Glue-All bottle makes a great support when gluing the upper and lower nozzle shrouds together.

Dr. Zooch Saturn V F1 Engines Step 10 Part 3

The lower nozzle bell on the left shows the oval shape after the glue tab had dried.

The bell on the left is the rounder shape after reforming the shroud.
You should get the shrouds to a near perfect roundness before trying to glue together the upper and lower halves.

I had to change the upper gluing tab to better fit the lower half of the nozzle.

This pencil line made the gluing tab larger and the lower diameter of the upper half slightly smaller.

Flatten out the gluing surfaces of the shrouds on a sanding block with 400 grit sandpaper.

Don't worry about rough edges after sanding off the high spots.
The glue is applied, the thin edge will make it easier to "mold" the two glued
halves with a smoother seam.