Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Finished

This was a easy standard build with a little history.
Once in a while it's nice to build a simpler model without any frustrating masking.

The big surprise was the Rustoleum Copper spray paint. This paint could be used on a 1950s style sci-fi rocket with good success. This is my first try with the paint . . .

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Part 8, Stickers!

On the left is the die-cut sticker outline. Why not just cut it out on the color edges? You won't notice the clear areas as much.

On the right are the corner tics for a tight border cut.

A strip of paper was wrapped around the body tube for equal placement of the stickers. Below the "I" in the word "PRIZE" is a penciled center line. An "X" sticker like this is also on the opposite side.

The paper strip was used again, raised up for the Angentina flag.

There was an additional sticker with the recommended engines. Some might put it on the outside surface but I hid mine inside the body tube.








A longer elastic shock cord was added.
The parachute was tied to a snap swivel. The snap swivel was attached about 1/3 the way down from the nose cone to prevent parachute shroud line tangles.

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Part 7, Nozzles & Paint

The four nozzles were sprayed metallic silver on both sides.

Before gluing on the nozzle plate, the paint was scraped off using the backside of my knife blade.





TIP: The fit of the nozzle plate was loose in the back of the model.
Four small drops of glue were set inside the body tube. After the glue dried the shoulder fit of the plate was good.

I wasn't looking forward to buying a specific color of spray paint for just one model. The capsule is to be painted a copper color.

TIP: This Rusto Metallic copper was a great surprise. It sprayed evenly, dried fast and left no fingerprints! The color seemed a bit darker than the spray can top. I'll have to find another model for this copper paint.




You've got to love a kit with no masking.
Overall white body, silver nozzles and a copper nose cone painted separately from the model.

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Part 6, Engine Mount Gluing & Fin Marking

The die-cut centering rings required some sanding for a friction fit.

On the right is a dry fit of the engine mount, the rear ring will end up 5/8" inside the tube. Shorter, stubby models sometimes need this recess for stability.

The engine mount was set beside the tube to mark the centering ring locations.
A gluing dowel was marked to apply glue for the forward ring.
The rear ring will get a fillet applied afterwards from the rear.



I see this more often than I should - the fin marking guide ends don't match up!

Wrap, fold and mark - make your own.




TIP: On models where the launch lug is between two fins, line up the launch lug with the engine hook.

On the launcher this puts the rod and launch lug behind the model for a pre-launch picture.
When installing the engine, place the igniter wires forward or to the side away from the engine hook. With the launch rod and engine hook at the back of the model it's easier to attach the micro clips.

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Part 5, Nose Cone Fit, Tube End Strengthening

The plastic nose cone base was glued in place with my standby glue - Beacon Fabri-tac. The fabric glue contains acetone and does a good job with some plastic to plastic and plastic to Kraft tube (body tubes) joints.
DON'T use Fabri-tac glue to assemble a Mercury Redstone or Saturn V tower. Use a bottled liquid glue, the ones that have a brush in the bottle cap.

TIP: Before wiping some CA glue on the inside of the body tube end, roll down the cutting burr with a smooth round object, like a plastic pen barrel. Notice my middle finger outside the tube edge to support the tube while it is under pressure.
 It's easier to roll, compress and flatten the burr before applying some CA glue. The burr would be hardened with CA glue.
Then - Wipe the CA glue on with a Q-tip and let dry. The sand smooth with some 400 grit sandpaper.

TIP: Plan ahead - you don't want CA glue in an area that will get wood glue later. The CA glue will seal the tube and the wood glue won't be absorbed.




The nose cone shoulder was too tight in the BT-58 tube.
it took quite a bit of sanding with 220 grit followed by 400 grit to polish it out.

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Part 3, Engine Mount Prep

On the left is the motor mount tube supplied in the kit. The seam gaps were wide and the tube felt weak.
I cut a new BT-5 tube to substitute.






The Mylar engine hook hold down ring had some cut burrs on both sides. With a new knife blade I was able to shave it smooth.






The fins were laser cut but the centering rings were old-school die cut.
The fit on the BT-5 motor mount tube was very tight. A few passes with some 220 grit sand paper and I had a good friction fit.

I've learned from past experience - 
Be sure the engine hook is straight before gluing on the entering rings.
The picture on the left shows a crooked engine hook.

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Part 2, Finger Tab Removal

I like my models to stand up straight on it's fin tips! Do you really need that finger tab?

"Score" the break point with wire cutters. Don't expect to cut through the engine hook with the wire cutters alone.

Look close at the inset picture - you can see the lightly scored line.

I use two sets of pliers to break off the finger tab.

Bend the tab back and forth. It should take three or four bends to break off the tab.


Flip over the engine hook with the sharp 90 degree end to the back of the model. The rough break/cut goes to the top of the mount, under the engine block.

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Part 1, Parts

Parts is parts!

This is a little more than a 4FNC model.
Parts are good, but I'll be upgrading some things.

Lonnie B. told me the main module tube.tube is a BT-58, the same diameter as the 1/100 Saturn V service module tube.

Parts of interest:
This kit had one of the "spider web" print parachutes.
Stickers! I hate stickers!
The Apollo capsule style nose cone and base.
Nozzle plate and four nozzles for display, not for flight.
The balsa was laser cut, the centering rings are old die-cut style.
Engine hook with a finger tab. Finger tab? Not on my rockets!

Estes Gauchito Build #1279 OOP, Background

Here's another one of the X Prize kits, the Gauchito. This entry was from Pablo de Leon & Associates from Argentina. Gauchito means "Little Cowboy."

The package face card says "Little Joe II styling." It's actually got Mercury Little Joe I fins, the top end looks like the Apollo Little Joe II.

I remember this triangular bubble pack being sold at WalMart.

Flights to 300 feet! Mini engine powered with parachute recovery.