Estes #2157 Saturn V Tower Fix

I've run into delays while spray painting the Astrobee D. August rains and humidity have delayed the build. 

Here's another small project I've been working on.

A contract build of a Saturn V had broken tower. The tower was broken beyond repair. Luckily I have an extra #2157 capsule and tower kit.

This was a display build, not meant for flight. 

I wanted to figure out a way to prevent a future tower break if the model were to fall over again. 

I decided to do a friction fit of the legs into the holes at the top of the capsule. If the model fell over, the tower could flex and pop off in one piece. That's what I'm hoping for anyway - 

The problem - 

The tower legs have too loose a fit into the capsule holes.

I squeezed a small drop of Beacon Fabri-Tac glue into the holes and cleaned off the excess glue. Don't use much glue, you don't want it to melt the plastic. 

I used the thicker Fabri-Tac as it would fill the holes. Liquid (brushed on) cement would be too thin for this.

The glue completely covered the holes and if allowed to dry you couldn't push in the tower ends.

Open the holes slightly with a round toothpick. You want to leave some glue on the inside hole wall to make the inside diameter a bit smaller.

Let dry and test the fit. I did two applications with the glue and toothpick.

I got a good fit of the tower.

Many builders won't fly a delicate tower on their scale models. The older Centuri Mercury Redstone instruction say to insert the top spike (no glue) for display, remove it for flight.

Saturn V Flight Video

 

Estes just released a video of the new Saturn V kit.

I built this "Flight" version for Estes.

Display or "Photo" models are better finished and more detailed.

This build got a gloss finish because it would be handled. Flat finishes pick up dirt and oil stains from fingers.

Good thing it was stable!

To see the video: CLICK HERE

New Estes Saturn V Kit Available

The newest version of the Estes Saturn V kit is now available!

A few months back I built a pre-production, flight version of this kit for Estes. It just showed up in a promotional launch video, keep an eye out here for a link in a day or two.

On Facebook, Andy Northern mentioned that the kit now includes wrap around painting guides!

This is a MAJOR improvement over trying to mark a round tube with a ruler and pencil.

To see the kit instructions, they are posted on the Estes website: CLICK HERE

The kit also uses a Kevlar tie for the shock cord attachment.

The centering rings get a two layer cardstock reinforcement.

Here's the Kevlar loop tied into the adapter.

If you haven't built a Saturn V in a while, 

The kit now has a 29mm screw on retainer for the recommended E16-4 and F15-4 motors.

You are instructed to use a knife tip to drill holes in the command module tube for attachment of the thrusters.

TIP: Use a pin tip to make the holes. A knife blade will make a hole too large for the small pin on the back of the thrusters.

Saturn V Fire? TIP

On the Estes Model Rocket Facebook page - 

Mark Hansen posted a picture of an Estes Saturn V that never got off the launcher. 

The tail end is on fire! There might also be a hole burned into the thin Estes metal deflector.

There is reasons why the instructions say to elevate the rocket 8" above the blast deflector. 

From Rocketreviews.com:

Krushnic Effect

A very dramatic phenomenon where your rocket makes a tremendous amount of noise and smoke but doesn't go anywhere! This happens when the motor is recessed into the body tube by more than one tube diameter. If so recessed, the cylindrical volume below the motor forms a secondary expansion chamber which allows the exhaust gasses to expand below atmospheric pressure before leaving the rocket. Surrounding air aspirated into the exhaust stream causes turbulence which negates much of the thrust, along with creating the characteristic roar. A multi-stage model that ejects its booster motor, but not the airframe, is a perfect example. Very damaging; it almost always destroys the lower body tube beyond use. Named for Richard Krushnic, the rocketeer who characterized the effect in the late '60s. Not to be confused with Suction Lock.

Bernoulli Lock

A phenomenon similar to the Krushnic Effect where the rocket seems to be "glued" to the pad at liftoff. This afflicts larger, flat-bottomed rockets launched too close to pads with flat blast deflectors. The exhaust gasses escape at great speed through the small annular space between the rocket and the pad creating a venturi which generates a low pressure region at the base. This pressure deficit can be significant, and if it is greater than the thrust being generated by the motor, the rocket won't go anywhere! This is quite possible as a 2" dia.rocket has, potentially, over 45 lbs (200 N) of "suction" available to hold it back, while a 3" rocket has over 100 lbs (460 N)! The old Centuri "Point" was an infamous Bernoulli locker when launched from an Estes Porta-Pad with its perfectly matching round blast deflector.

With the wide body and recessed engine - This doesn't always happen. But why take the risk?

Raise your (4" diameter, not the smaller plastic version) Saturn V, 8" above the blast deflector. And, you should have a longer launch rod or rail.

I experienced this in the early 1970s with a Centuri Point. 

The base of the Point is round almost matching the diameter of my round Estes blast deflector plate. The model never left the launcher and caught fire.

On my more recent Semroc Point, notice the base is raised above the blast deflector. In the original instructions, Centuri did not mention raising the rocket above the deflector. But, Centuri blast deflectors were angled, not flat.

Estes Saturn V New Fairing Reinforcements

 

On the Facebook Model Rocketry Fanatics page, 

Steven Carricato posted a parts picture from his new Saturn V and Saturn 1B kits.

I noticed something interesting. In the center of the picture are some crescent shaped pieces laser cut from cardstock.

Going back to the original Centuri Saturn V, the vacuform fairings have always been a weak spot. They would sometimes crack on a hard landing.

I built a Saturn V show model for Estes in June 2019. I sometimes send build notes with the finished model.

I wrote: "The only place I varied from the instructions was to glue some cardstock crescents to the bottoms of the fairings. Even a single layer of 110 lb. cardstock helps strengthen the thin vacuform plastic."

I made a Fairing Reinforcement PDF available. Included is Third Stage Foundation Wrap and Anchor Wire pattern to Patreon supporters. (In a run of #2157 Saturn V kits, the Third Stage Fairing pattern was small and the anchor wire ends too long.)

It looks like Estes incorporated the crescent reinforcement idea in the new Skylab Saturn V. I haven't seen the Skylab kit yet - I understand the crescent pieces are glued inside the flat bottom of the fairings.

I set my crescent reinforcement pieces on the outside. This way I could overlap and cover any gap between the main body tube and curved fairing edge.

To see Part 1 of the 2019 blog post: CLICK HERE  

To see Part 2: CLICK HERE 

If you have a previous edition of the Saturn V kit, this PDF is available to Patreon members. 

Email me and ask for the #2157 Saturn V Third Stage Foundation Wrap PDF.

Saturn V Fairing Melts? BIG Tip

I've already seen a few Estes Saturn V launches celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the Moon Landing. Before launching, take a moment to be sure your model is
ABOVE THE BLAST DEFLECTOR -

From the Facebook page - Model Rocketry Fanatics:
Stepen Fitton posted:
"This is after only 2 flights on D12s. Any ideas for building my 2nd Saturn V kit to keep the vacuform fin fairings from melting?

Vin Sauriol replied: 
"How close was it to the blast plate?"
"1-2 more inches up next time. Anything I send is 4” from the plate."

G. Harry Stine would say: "When in doubt, follow the instructions."
These pictures are from the Estes instructions:

The top edge of the tape should be 8" from the blast deflector. The lower lug and standoff are already glued above the low end of the rocket. The tape (use a few wraps, the rocket is heavy) should hold the rocket far enough above the blast deflector.
I know the excitement of launching your BIG rocket the first time, nobody carries the instructions to the launch site.

On the right is Mark Stephens Saturn V. Without a blast deflector, this shows what can happen using a J engine!

If you have ever watched a slow motion launch video, you'll see the engine blast bounce and reflect back up to the bottom of your rocket. Some of my rockets have charred fins.
The Saturn V is heavy and much slower off the launcher, a moment longer subjected to the heat flashback.

I made some card stock crescents that strengthen and could help prevent the melting of the thin plastic.
For Part One - CLICK HERE 
For Part Two - CLICK HERE

Estes Saturn V #1969 Build, Finished!

Okay, where are the finished pictures?

I built TWO Saturn Vs and had a deadline.
Trying to paint around Florida's Summer rains and humidity is a bear!
When all was finished I would have to take the pictures outside, the model is too tall to "pose" for clear indoor pictures.
When that afternoon came, there was rain and more rain. I had to get the models in the mail. The picture to the left is of the previous #2157 build.

The previous blog build of the #2157 Saturn V kit took over 60 hours.
This build took about 42 hours. Why the difference?

Experience with many previous Saturn V builds cut down the build time. I know what to expect.
The older 2157 kit is a harder build. There were those two piece vacu-form fins that probably took an hour each to glue up and fill. This model has easier to glue up hard styrene fins.
No upper LEM shroud, internal tubing and coupler. A much easier to assemble tower.

I met the deadline - these two Saturn Vs were sent back to Estes in time! I also wanted to have the posts finished with enough time for others to launch on the July Apollo 11 anniversary.

One other reason for no finished picture - 
Vendors use my finished pictures to sell kits on their websites and make money off my builds. This one would be copied and pasted a lot! Things might be different if there was name credit and they asked permission. There are many pictures throughout the blog build.

Estes Saturn V #1969 Build, Part 52, Finishing Up!

Here's the silver detail after it was hand painted again following the dull coat. Much better!







I didn't glue together the upper assembly so the service module could stay separate (and silver) after the dull coat.

The decals were thin. After the dull coat was sprayed the clear decal edges disappeared!

GOTCHA: The wire anchor ends were about 1/16" too long! I couldn't slide the capsule and adapter shoulders all the way in without bumping into the wire. I had to trim the card stock, carefully bend out  and cut the wire.








GOTCHA: Cut the piece of shroud line to about 15", not 13". You'll need a little more length to have an end long enough to go under the coupler and tie things together.

Here's why you need the longer length -
The line tie has to end up below the bottom of the coupler. The rubber shock cord tie should be below the coupler.

39:30 minutes previous
    :45 this post
41:15 Total Finished!

Estes Saturn V #1969 Build, Part 51, Silver Trim and Dull Coat

Normally I'd paint and leave a Saturn V with gloss paint. Flat paint is a dirt and finger oil magnet! Flat finishes are also hard to clean. Estes requested these builds to have a dull, no gloss finish.

I hand painted these small motors on the 3rd Stage with bottled Silver paint.
The sheen was good - but look what happened after it was hit with a dull coat! It is now a dull gray and the brush strokes are very evident.

For a test, I sprayed some silver on card stock.

On the left is the sprayed silver.
On the right is the same silver after a shot of dull coat. I didn't want this gray look on the fins, and the silver on the fairings.

Oh boy - MORE MASKING!

I had to mask the silver on the fins and fairings to protect it from the dull coat.
A strip of tape was cut with a notch to fit around the low end of the fin.

A tracing was made of a fin and cut out. Notice the bent outside edge hinge. These mask covers are wide but still fit close over the root edge of the fin. Three more covers were traced and cut.

The cover is folded over the fin and taped closed.
Now the lower tube assembly can be sprayed with the Krylon Matte spray.

Krylon Matte Finish is considered flat - but does have a very slight sheen to it.

Assembly time so far:
38:45 minutes previous
    :45 this post
39:30 Total so far

Estes Saturn V #1969 Build, Part 50, Decals Part C

TIP: These camera targets could be saved for last, after you've had some practice with the larger decals.

Again, tweezers help with placement. Be sure there is a drop of water set down in the corrugations before setting these down.





When the dots are straight and in position, press a paper towel over the top and squeeze out the water. The decals are thin and they should conform to the ribs in the corrugation.

The flag decals are all in line.
TIP: Wrap and tape a sheet of copy paper around the tube for a base alignment line.

Assembly time so far:
35:15 minutes previous
  3:30 to place all decals
38:45 Total so far

Estes Saturn V #1969 Build, Part 49, Decals Part B

For consistent placement of the A, B, C, & D fin decals -
TIP: Make a template from card stock.
Trace around a fin leaving some area on the outside for a "handle". Trace on both sides for decal placement on the other side of the fin.
Set the decal in place, check the alignment with the template.
This TIP is based on a template part supplied in the old Centuri kit.

Some of the kit decals are small!
Soak in shallow water and float the decal on the surface. Leaving the decal floating on the surface makes it easier to pick up after soaking.
TIP: Tweezers are a big help placing the decal in the water and removing it.

The curved UNITED STATES decals go on the conical CM capsule.

The straight UNITED STATES decals go on the side of the service module tube.

Here's a moot point - 
TIP: The "I" in the vertical UNITED STATES decal is a little off center.
I placed the decal. Using a single edge razor blade, the "I" was cut above and below it. Don't cut into the paint, just score through the decal
Using my thumb, the "I" was slid over while the decal was still wet and pliable. It doesn't take a large move to center the "I".

Decal placement times are coming - 

Estes Saturn V #1969 Build, Part 48, Decals Start, Part A

There are about 40 decals to apply!

Hold the decals up to a light and you can see the clear coat border. I'll be cutting the decals close, about 1/16" from the printed image.

TIP: Every decal sheet seems to be different depending on where it was printed how old it is. Always start with a decal you aren't going to use on the model. I won't be using the Estes logos so these will get the soak time, slide and transfer test.

TIP: Clean the surface before you place a decal. Nothing worse than seeing a small piece of lint under the clear areas of the decal.






This seems to be a good decal to start with, it's simply centered on the white areas.

Always wet the surface where the decal will be placed. A little water underneath the decal allows you to slide and straighten it out.
Remove any air bubbles with a damp Q-tip. Roll from the center out to the edges.

Full decal times in the last decal post - 

Estes Saturn V #1969 Build, Part 47, Gluing The RCS Nozzles

I'm going to add one hour to the build time for all the touch-ups that were done around the mask areas. I was careful as possible and still had paint get into areas I thought were covered.

TIP: Before the paint is totally dry, you can remove some (isolated) over sprays with a Mister Clean Magic Sponge. Go lightly, a Magic Sponge can dull a gloss finish.

The positioning pins on the back of the RCS nozzles are tiny! You can see it right in the center of the picture.
Mentioned earlier, don't spin drill a hole with a knife blade tip. A sewing needle makes a cleaner, smaller hole.

Make the holes with a pin, then spray the silver.

A very small dot of Fabri-Tac glue was set on the back and the housing pressed in place.
A dot of medium CA glue was set over the pin from the inside.

Assembly time so far:
34:45 minutes previous
  1:00 touch-ups
    :15 this post
35:15 Total so far

Estes Saturn V #1969 Build, Part 46, Silver Reveal and OOPS!

The silver was sprayed.
Look at the root edge of the fin. You can see where I lightly sanded  the liquid glue "fillet". The coats that followed covered it well.





Here's the reveal after the tape was lifted.
I had clean color separations, Whew!

The finish is much cleaner than the picture shows.

Then this!
While handling the model, I hit one of the fins on the back of a wooden chair. I didn't think I hit it very hard, but the root edge glue joint was loosened! The sides were still adhered to the flexible fairing skin.
It would probably be fine for flight, but I wanted it secure.

After thinking about the repair for a day, I decided to cut through the reinforcement card stock crescent to reach the back of the fin. A carefully placed drop of liquid cement was allowed to run down each side of the fin. From the back I brushed on more cement. It is solid now!

I printed up another card stock crescent, spray painted it silver and glued it over the original with contact cement. FIXED!

Assembly time so far:
33:45 minutes previous
  1 :00 minutes this post
34:45 Total so far

Estes Saturn V #1969 Build, Part 45, Parachutes

You have three parachutes to assemble. The design is from the old Centuri kit and simulates the gore pattern from the Apollo mission splashdowns.

TIP: Turn over your straightedge so there is no chance of the plastic sheet flexing when cutting out the parachute sides. You can get a ragged edge if the sheet moves. Don't bother with scissors, use your knife with a new, sharp blade.

I found it interesting that the shroud line attachments were drawn old style, with a loop of line under a solid disk.
You are supplied with disks with a hole in the center. I wouldn't want to trust a simple attachment like this given the weight of the rocket.





I place the disks with the flat side of my knife instead of using my fingers. The oils on your skin can diminish the adhesion on the underside of the disk.

Parachute assembly is standard, punch the center hole and tie on the line. There big chutes to assemble, two 24" and one 18".

The shroud line strings are LONG! 

Don't pull on the ends or you'll end up with a tangled mess. If you can, find the tape end - or carefully cut through the tape and unravel slowly.

The instructions have you "loop and pull" the parachute around a double knot in the rubber shock cord. This is a difficult way to attach the shroud lines. It doesn't feel secure, the loop could open up and detach from the shock cord.

TIP: I recommend using a snap swivel on all parachutes.

Tie the lines in the small loop. You can (carefully) feed the open hook through a single overhand knot in the shock cord.

Assembly time so far:
32:15 minutes previous
  1:30 minutes this post
33:45 Total so far