DFR Tech Delta II Build FINISHED!

DFR Technologies DELTA II Finished!

The Delta two has a flat finish, except for the teal wrap which is gloss.
I paint my models with clear and then hit it with a dull coat after the decals or wraps are applied.
On the Delta II, I masked off the teal wrap and clear fins before spraying on the dull coat.

The nose cone on the real Delta II has an "ablative" finish. It's rough and some wears off during the heat of launch. I tried to replicate this rough texture by spraying the nose cone from a distance, letting the paint spatter a bit.

The Delta II is an impressive model on the display shelf and in the air.
All the DFR Technologies kits are available at www.jonrocket.com.

DFR Tech Delta II Build Part 19 Wraps

I got the new vinyl wraps for the Delta II.
These are a good improvement over the self adhesive paper wraps. They are bright, clear and precut.

I did the usual line down the body tube for lining up the edge of the wrap.

The vinyl holds well, but you can peel it off and re-position if your alignment is off.
Just be sure the body tube surface is clean! Anything from glue or lint will show through the vinyl as a bump.

The print on the SRM numbers are placed 1/4" from the end of their tubes.

I positioned the first one (the number 9 centered between two fins) then wrapped a thin strip of paper around all the SRM tubes.

The paper strip goes along the bottom edge of the vinyl number squares.

This will make the lower distance alignment foolproof. Simply set the bottom edge of the vinyl square on the top of the paper strip.

Check to be sure the vinyl number is centered by looking from the rear. Use the SRM mounts for a center reference.

DFR Tech Delta II Build Part 18 SRM Gluing

To keep the spacing consistent between the SRMs, I used a dowel and set it between two tubes.
The dowel was first sharpened and then the tip sanded off until the tip rested between the tubes.

It was slid from end to end insuring the space between each tube was the same.

Here's all nine of the SRMs in place.

Before anyone reminds me, for now the model is spray painted with gloss white. It'll be sprayed with a dull coat later when it's finished.

TIP: It's easier clean gloss finished model during all the handling of a build. With gloss paint, finger smudges come right off with a damp paper towel. After a lot of handling it's not so easy to clean off a finger oils and dried glue off a flat finish.

NOTE: This build will be delayed a few days until I get a the new vinyl wrap. Carl is constantly improving his kits and is working with a vendor for a newer, more detailed vinyl wrap. I've seen a test print and the detail is excellent.

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 17 SRM Gluing

If you look closely at the back end of the SRM tube you can see a pencil tick mark over and around the back end of the tube.

You'll be gluing this tube centered on the SRM supports strip. Because it completely covers the alignment line, this tick mark will give you a centering reference.

I'd suggest using the "double glue" method to attach the SRMs.

Here's some SRMs in place. These SRMs are adjacent to the clear fins and can hold engines.

Before gluing, I marked the exposed lip with a Sharpie pen for easier identification and to remind me which ones had the engine blocks in them.

You can just make out the pencil tick marks, centered on the SRM supports.

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 16 Fin Gluing

I figured it would be easier to glue the clear fins in place before the SRMs.

Some 15 minute epoxy was mixed on a scrap piece of card stock.

These clear fins are attached through the wall. The only real glue will be on the root edge and onto the engine mount tube.

If you haven't used epoxy before, be ready, it can get everywhere.
I needed to apply it to the root edge only and not onto the clear sides of the fins.

I picked up a drop of mixed epoxy onto a toothpick tip and ran it down the root edge.

This is 15 minute epoxy which gave me enough time to glue and position all three fins.

Check back every minute or so while the glue sets up and make small adjustments to be sure they are setting straight away from the main tube.

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 15 Engine Mount Gluing

I used a wide tip permanent marker to darken the inside tube that'll be exposed once the engine mount is in place.

I only had to blacken a little over 1/4" in.

Keep the pen inside the tube and off the white outside, lower edge.

I decided to line up the engine hook with one of the SRM supports.

A rounded dowel end was used to apply a white glue fillet, drop by drop.
The dowel end smoothed out the fillet.

Any glue outside of the smoothed fillet bead was picked up with Q-Tip.

Applying the fillet to the top ring was a little harder. It took a long dowel to apply the glue around the upper centering ring from the top.

DFR Tech Delta II Build Part 14 Prepared Sub-Assemblies

Here's everything ready for the final assembly.
Depending on the model, I'll build in sub-assemblies.

When starting a build, look ahead to the finishing and decide if it's easier to pre-paint the components.

On the Delta II, I wanted complete spray coverage on all the inside areas. All parts (SRMs) were filled, primed, masked and sprayed off the model.

When building this way you do have to mask all strips and surfaces that will be glued together. All this was covered in the previous post.

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 13 Pre-Paint Masking

I am building this model in sub-assemblies, painting before gluing it all together.

It would be difficult to get good spray paint coverage between all the SRM tubes and nose cones.
All the gluing surfaces should be masked off before painting.

You can see the 3/32" wide masking tape strips down the SRM body tubes.

Likewise, the corresponding SRM attach mounts have masking tape strips on the outside edges to keep the paint off the glue points.

The central engine mount will be painted black.

Tape was placed over the outside edges of the lower centering ring.

An expended casing was inserted to keep paint out of the engine mount tube.

DFR Tech Delta II Build Part 12 SRM Mount Gluing

The SRM attachment mounts were glued in place using an aluminum angle to insure they were straight

TIP: If you don't have an aluminum angle, I'd recommend getting one for fin line marking and for applications like this.

As you are gluing, you are covering up the lower end of the alignment line with the basswood mount strip. The angle is helpful, keeping the mount straight from top to bottom.

Don't trust your eyes, thinking you are gluing them on straight!

The angle was used around the tube for all nine mounts.

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 11 Launch Lug Prep

The two 3/16" launch lugs were slid over a dowel for seam filling.

Thinned Carpenter's Wood Filler was brushed on and sanded off.

After sanding off the filler, the lugs were set back on the dowel and sprayed white.

When the paint is dried, a gluing line will be sanded off for best adhesion.

DFR Tech Delta II Build Part 9 SRM Nose Cones

I know, I should have rounded the SRM nose cones before filling and spraying the primer.

I referred to a few Internet pictures of the Delta II to get the nose cone shape. See HERE

I sanded off the tip from one nose cone to use as a master for the other eight cones. I wanted to be sure they were all consistent in length and shape.

The nose cone to the left is the master, that tip has already been sanded off.

With the cones in their body tubes, I set them side by side being sure the ends of the tubes are aligned.

The second cone (on the right) was sanded down to match the tip height of the master. I made sure to stop sanding when I reached the top of the left, lower master cone.

Here's the progress from left to right.

1. Left: Sanded down, squared tip.
2. Middle: Rough rounding of top using 220 grit.
3. Right: Final smoothing with 400 grit.

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 8 SRM Supports and Nose Cones

Here's a SRM support before and after the gray primer sanding.

I wanted to smooth, primer then sand the support pieces before assembly. It's be impossible to smooth and seal them after all is glued together.

Enlarge the picture and you can see the rough edge on filled the nose cone shoulder.

The nose cone has already been filled, but some filler is left on the shoulder ridge.

Pull the nose cone out of the tube slightly.

Fold a piece of 400 grit and set into the raised groove.
Lightly sand around the shoulder edge.

These nose cone / body tube edges are not filled, there should be a separation line at the shoulder.

DRM Delta II Build Part 7 SRM Supports

The lengths of the nine SRM Supports sticks were a little off.

All nine support sticks were set side by side and the bottoms evened up on a flat surface.

While the ends were even, all were taped together. This left the upper ends like the picture above.

The uneven ends were sanded and checked against a right angle square.

The supports were stacked side by side and set on masking tape (sticky side up) to be sprayed with gray primer.

With the supports stacked and sprayed this way, the paint will only cover the top, leaving the sides bare for better adhesion.

After one side is sprayed, the whole stack is turned over and the other side sprayed.

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 6 Seam Filling

In this kit there is a lot of tubes to fill!
One main tube and nine SRMs!

Here I'm dragging a small drop of thinned Carpenter's Wood Filler down a body tube seam with a dull knife blade.
This method uses less filler and directs the filler right into the seam.

The SRM Attachment Mounts are 1/8" square basswood.
I want to sand them smooth before gluing onto the body tube.

TIP: To help keep track of what side has been sanded, I marked all four sides with a pencil.
You'll have to trust me on this. While you are sanding, it's easy to lose track of what sides have been sanded.
If you mark it with a pencil, you'll know what sides are left to be sanded.


A smooth side has already had the pencil marking sanded off.

Here's an SRM mount before (top) and after smoothing. (bottom)

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 5 Engine Mounts

This is the finished central engine mount.

You can use as many as six A10-Pt (plugged 13mm engines) in the SRMs.

Six engine blocks are glued into six BT-5 SRM tubes.

I used a dowel to get the glue into the tube.
The dowel was marked a little short of 2 1/2".
A glue ring was applied around the edge of the dowel end.
The glued end of the dowel was inserted into the tube being careful not to get glue along the inside of the tube.
When I reached the pencil mark, the dowel was rolled inside the tube, transferring the glue at the correct location.
An engine block was inserted and pushed into position with an engine casing. The casing overhangs the body tube by 1/4".

TIP: Half the job of getting an engine block into position without freezing in the wrong place is simply having everything ready and at hand.
Have your marked casing, marked dowel and engine blocks in sight before even thinking about using glue.

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 4 Engine Mount

The forward ring was marked bagged separately. It is pre-drilled for the screw eye.

The screw eye is set into the hole.
Don't screw it in past the threads!

Be sure it is turned to the side so it'll fit into the body tube!

Set the screw eye with epoxy. This is the underside view of the forward ring.

Glue the ring in place so it sits opposite the engine hook.

Looking down from the front end you can see how the screw eye is facing. Look inside the tube and you can see the top of the engine hook is opposite the screw eye placement.

DFR Tech Delta II Build Part 3 Engine Mount

The Bt-20 engine mount tube is marked and notched at 2 1/2" for the engine hook.

Centering ring marks are made at 1/4" and 1 7/8" from the rear of the tube. (The upper mark in the photo is not correct. It should be farther down towards the end of the tube.)

I notched the lower centering ring using a square diamond file.

Here's the notched lower ring and upper ring ready for gluing on the motor mount tube.

I used electrical tape to hold down the engine hook.

DFR Tech. Delta II Build Part 2 Prepping Parts

All the open ends of the body tubes got a strengthening coat of CA.

Lately I've been setting a drop of CA on a scrap piece of cardstock. A Q-Tip is dipped in the CA. While it's still wet, the CA is rolled around the end of the body tube.

This is a cleaner, easier way of putting an even coat of CA around a tube end, as opposed to applying it right out of the bottle.

Less CA is used and there's no chance of drips running down the inside of the tube. You do use a few Q-Tips on a model like this with a lot of body tubes.

The clear plastic fins were stacked and gang sanded with 150 grit sandpaper on a block.
220 grit followed, then 400 grit.

A little plastic had rolled over the sides. I didn't want to sand that off and run the risk of marring the clear side. I used the side of my X-Acto knife to lightly scrape and remove the "flash" from the edges.

DFR Tech Delta II Build Part 1 Parts

I'll be building this as a display model for Carl Campbell. Carl owns DFR Technologies and produces a new line of Delta kits.

Here's all the parts!
Check out the custom nose cones.
Nine (count 'em nine) SRM boosters.
You can fly this with 18mm engines in the central core and as many as six A10-pt (plugged) engines in the SRMs.

Here's the interesting stuff:
Three clear fins
The forward stuffer tube ring is pre-drilled for the screw eye
Basswood SRM mounts
Custom nose cone and short adapter
Two of the nine SRMs


Check out the Delta kits at: www.dfrtech.com
The kits are available from www.jonrocket.com