Rocket Tip - Gluing?

Paint is drying on the LTV Scout - Replacement decals have been shipped. 

So I'm stuck for a few days before the final white spray coats. 

Until then, some blog post filler . . .

 

I looked up the new instructions for the re-release of the Estes D Region Tomahawk. CLICK HERE

I was curious to see if there were any changes from the original kit available from 2007-2014.

I did notice something I've seen in other instructions before.

Why apply lines of glue around the D coupler then slide the B tube over it? You'll be left with a lot of glue to clean up at the joint. Sure you could wipe it off, but there will be some glue residue seen on the finished model.

TIP: Apply the glue inside the B tube and slide the dry D coupler into the glue. 

Maybe Estes thought that would leave more glue at the low end of the butt joint when the tubes are joined.

You could always concentrate a bit more glue at the low end of the upper B tube.

New Estes Laser X2

Estes has unveiled a new Designer Signature Series kit - 

The LASER X2

This is based on the original Centuri Laser X design, upscaled to a BT-60 size.

I had always thought the Centuri Laser X was produced to compete with the Estes Mars Snooper.

The Estes Mars Snooper was introduced in 1966, the Centuri Laser X in 1968.

The new Laser X2 kit instructions have been posted: CLICK HERE

The colors and decal treatment are different from the original. New balsa strakes run down the upper tube. Plastic fin detail "guns" replace the toothpicks on the outside edge of the fins. 

The small vanes that surround the engine tube extension are now molded in plastic. A new screw on engine retainer rounds out the kit.

To see my build of the original Laser X from Semroc, CLICK HERE

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 15, White Paint & Planning Ahead

The conduit fillets show up when the white undercoats are sprayed.

Wood glue fillets can be sanded, just be careful not to sand into the wood.

It doesn't look good now, but a few more white sprayings should cover things up.

Some of the tunnel joints were close, these were open, but no more open than the body tube/adapter joint.

I probably could fill these joints, but won't this time around.

Looking ahead - 

The heat shield will be painted black, masked off using Scotch tape cut in an arc.

Paint the vernier covers red? 

That would be difficult, they are only slightly raised.

I could use a decal sheet for four small red dots, or - 

Punch some red vinyl using my rotary punch. 

This red vinyl is left over from the Skylab build.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 14, Parachutes & New Decals

The finished build is just over 36" tall and recovers on a single 18" parachute. 

Those fin tips can break off on a hard landing.

Suggested by Ken C. in a comment, I'll recover the lower body on the 18" chute and add a 12" chute for the upper body assembly.

Note the position of the shroud line hole. It is punched towards the outside of the reinforcement ring. This puts shroud line tension against the plastic ring preventing the start of a tear.

I replaced the paper tape disks with plastic Avery Reinforcement Rings, #5271.

Paper rings tear.

Old kit decals are iffy and on this kit, difficult to apply.

I ordered some replacement decals from CMR Products. 

CMR has taken over decal production of Tango Papa Decals. CLICK HERE to see their catalog.

Prices are reasonable (as things go today) and free shipping.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 13, Tunnel Gluing

Much like the tunnels on the Saturn V build - 

The tunnel ends fit better when sanded to a small angle. 

The tunnel ends on the adapters aren't molded at a 90 degree angle.

This shows a good fit. Not all the conduit ends were as tight!

The tunnel at the bottom has been glued and taped in place.

The upper tunnel position shows had the filler/primer scraped off just inside the pencil lines.

The wood used to make the tunnels is prone to split. I had it happen a few times when cutting to size.

 

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 12, Tunnel Marking

GOTCHA: The three tube marking guides didn't meet up when wrapped around the tubes.

The tunnels were taped down to scrap cardboard and sprayed with filler/primer. It's much easier to seal and fill these off the model.

The instructions have you cut the tunnels to length before gluing them on the model.

I'd recommend cutting the length 1/8" oversize and sanding the ends to size. You'll get a tighter, cleaner fit.

Also - Apply the glue to the underside of the tunnel, not glue on the body tube. Apply a glue line, wipe off excess and press in place. You'll have more control and less squeeze out of the glue on the sides of the tunnels.

Marking the payload tube is a bit confusing.

The tunnels are to the right of and just below the raised triangle shape in the upper adapter.

Enlarge the picture to see the pencil lines.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 11, Engine Mount Gluing

I used a dowel to roll a line of glue inside the body tube. The upper ring would slide into the glue ring.

The mount is held beside the body tube alongside the dowel. The top of the dowel is just under the upper centering ring.

At the bottom, the dowel is marked with pencil for a depth guide.

Note the masking tape around the engine mount. The tape is only there for a pencil mark at 1 9/16" from the end of the tube. The low end of the tube will extend 1 9/16" out the back.

Apply a line of glue around the top of the dowel.

Roll the glue ring inside the tube using the pencil line on the dowel for the correct depth.

Slide in the mount. when you reach the pencil depth mark, turn the mount to spread and even the glue at the upper centering ring.

The lower ring fillet was applied using single drops of wood glue applied with a Q-tip. Enlarge the picture to see the glue fillet.

The low conduit section and base cap are glued together using Fabri-Tac. Notice the alignment "key" notches before gluing.

Apply more Fabri-Tac to the inside of the tube and the low end of the motor tube. Slide in the low conduit assembly rotating the engine hook relief notch around the engine hook.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 10, Some Parts Prep

The blow molded adapters fit loose in their body tubes.

The ones that are to be glued in got the shoulders built up with two lines of Fabri-Tac.

Let the glue lines dry before trying the new fit in the tubes.

The nose cone still had a seam recess after sanding down the raised mold line. 

This was filled with a bead of medium CA glue. This CA bead will take a while to dry.

Sand to surface with 400 grit on a block. 

The molded eyelet on the third stage was small and thin. I wouldn't trust it at ejection. The small eyelet reminds me of the Bullpup kit nose cone. I've had that one break in the past.

A hole was drilled in the shoulder. The shock cord will be tied through it and the larger hole in the base.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 9, 2nd Stage Adapter Insulation

Some CA glue was run around the tube/adapter joints at the top and bottom. 

The inside tube seam got a good drip of wood glue smoothed out with a Q-tip.

After the glue dried,

The overhang was trimmed down and sanded even with the top and bottom of the plastic adapter.

The bottom lip of the adapter is still exposed to the ejection charge.

Some epoxy was mixed and rolled on with the Q-tip. When standing on end to dry - be ready, the epoxy will run. Keep an eye on it and wipe off any drips as it sets up.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 8, 2nd Stage Adapter Insulation

A build comment: 

I have two LTV’s from way back. One is retired, the other is restored and flies great! I would recommend extending the engine tube past the blow mold adapter below the “Italia” decals. The ejection charge blew apart the adapter on both models. Especially if you sand down the seams, they get very thin. I also use two parachutes for recovery. It’s a beautiful model. 

Good luck! Ken Caldwell

I was also concerned about the hot ejection passing through a blow molded adapter. Hard plastic could probably take it, but blow molded (with some thin areas) maybe not.

Ken suggested extending the length of the BT-20 motor mount tube from the mount through the adapter. I decided on insulating the interior of the adapter.   

I cut a piece of scrap BT-60 about 1/2" longer than the adapter.

Even though I had already widened the hole to 5/8" diameter for the ejection gasses to pass through - 

I cut off more of the adapter end for the tapered tube I was going to install. I did leave some of the turned under shoulder lip.

The BT-60 tube was cut down its length with scissors.

An overlapping cone was formed and slid into the adapter. The overlap was marked with pencil.

An overlap tab was drawn, then cut for an overlap.

The insulating tube "cone" was pressed into the adapter to a tight fit  against the top and bottom openings.

Gluing and trimming in next step.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 7, Great Tubes!

Oh, how I miss the older, tighter better made tubes!

They feel denser and stronger. 

The picture shows the BT-60 tube lower tube. The seams are very tight and were easily filled with CWF,   

The upper tubes didn't need any CWF, I couldn't find the seam recess! Just a good shot of filler/primer and sanding should take care of anything remaining,

Here the shorter tubes are slid onto rolled cardstock handles for a filler/primer spray.

Above - the BT-60 shot with gray filler/primer.

After sanding with 400 grit.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 6, Those Conduits (Tunnels)

I did a dry fit (no glue) to see how the wood tunnels fit against the molded ends.

They were a little higher than the top of the adapter plastic.

The top was take down with 220 grit on a block.

I still left it a hair high to follow up with the next step.

These tunnels are about 1/4" wide, that could leave a gap against the curvature of the tube.

I wrapped some 220 grit around a 3/4" wide dowel and sanded a slight curve into the flat bottom of the tunnel.

This dip running along the bottom will fit the tube better and also lower the top so it will better match the molded tunnel ends in the adapters.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 5, Those Conduits (Tunnels)

Here's how the instructions have you cut and separate the wood conduits.

A difficult task, cutting at an angle using a strait edge and knife.

I cut the first tunnel out, then changed my method.

After trying to sand the sides at an angle, the first conduit didn't seem wide enough for smooth transition meeting against the molded plastic conduit ends.

I ran a pencil down the trenches. I cut the tunnels apart setting the blade centered between the two pencil lines.

On the left is the tunnel end showing the sides extension.

On the left is the before and after. A sanding block with 220 grit smoothed out the sides. Follow with 400 grit.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 4, Engine Mount Gussets

These are probably the thinnest centering rings I've ever run across - The thickness of two layers of 110 lb. cardstock. I've used gussets in the past to beef up an engine mount.

   

I wanted the gussets at a 120 degree spacing or close to it.

A copy paper strip was rolled around the BT-20 tube. Two even folds were made giving three gusset positions.

Wrap around the tube and mark at the folds and where the strip meets.

This is why I save excess balsa left over from other kits.

3/32" thick balsa strips were cut to fit between the two centering rings. These were made a little wide to be sanded even with the outside ring edge after the glue dries.

Here's the final, finished engine mount. 

It's always surprising how much stronger gussets make the mount feel.

This shouldn't be considered "bulletproofing" a LPR model. Just some lightweight strengthening.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 3, Engine Mount

The engine block was installed just above the engine hook slot position using a glue ended dowel.

The engine hook had a slight reverse bend in it.

I bent a gentle curve to better retain the motor.

The instructions mentioned a hold down strap on the pattern sheet (back of face card). There wasn't one.

No big deal. I used a wrap of electrical tape which would last longer than masking tape.

A drop of wood glue was set over the upper bend of the hook.

The finished mount. Those rings are thin!

The upper ring is set down about 1/8" to allow a glue fillet on both sides.

National When Pigs Fly Day!

Featured on the Apogee Facebook page:

Celebrating 'When Pigs Fly' Day! Ever been told your idea is crazy, or that something will happen 'when pigs fly'? Today's your reminder that determination and a little bit of innovation can make even the most impossible-sounding dreams take flight. Just like the Pigasus rocket you'll find on our website. You can do this, we can help!

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 2, Engine Mount

The low inside end of the engine mount tube got a swipe of CA glue. The edge also got a wipe of glue.

Sand the glued end square with 400 grit.

This end will be exposed, it is not a glued surface. The CA glue seals and hardens the tube end.

 

The engine hook slot cut is made in two steps.

Note the blade is flipped over making two small joining cuts.

Stab and make about half the cut.

Turn the blade over and complete the cut from the other side.

The two facing cuts give you a slot with squared ends - less chance of a tear.

For whatever reason, Estes didn't include an engine block in this kit. I added one.