Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 26, The Long Tunnels

The instructions show tunnel recesses cut into the wraps. Notice the top and bottom of the cut outs - they are square, the dowel tunnel ends are tapered.

I'll cut the section ends the same shape as the dowel ends.

The 5" long tunnels were taped to the body and carefully cut around the dowels.

The tape was placed between the wraps.

Here is a closeup.

I used a new, sharp blade tracing around the tunnels.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 25, Fairing Wraps

Each #7 fairing should be marked for positions and individually trimmed.

Center and press the fairing piece between the fins, noting how the outside edges but up against the fin fairings. 

Even though I tried to get straight sides on the fairing, the conical shape flared out a bit.

The sides of the #7 pieces had to be cut in a slight arc to fit the sides.

On the right shows how many narrow trims were made on the sides to fit the open area.

Before spraying with adhesive, 

The fairing were given a slight curve. I didn't want any adhesive on the printed, visible side.

Here's one of the #7 pieces in place, the sides are almost tucked into the root edges of the fairings.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 24, Body Wraps

The backs of the body wraps got a shot of adhesive spray while lightly held down on masking tape.

Here's both sides of the upper body with the wraps in place.

Turned around - The upper #1 wrap was short and didn't match up.

The adapter wrap needed a cardstock "shim" around the bottom for a better fit.

This is the back side of the wrap ready for a shot of adhesive spray.

I made a small patch out of a scan print.

It's darker than the original kit wrap print but works in a pinch.

Not perfect, but better than the gap.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 23, Silver Fairing Paint

I used Scotch tape masks.

Scotch tape isn't very flexible - so the only way to get the curved line is to set down a piece of tape, then draw an arc with a wide point Sharpie. Wipe off the excess ink with a paper towel.

Cut a smooth arc thru the middle of the ink line.

Here I'm lifting the masking strip off my cutting glass.

On the left, the Scotch tape mask is in place for the silver spray.

On the right, the rest of the body is masked off.

Seal the tape edge with a Q-tip.

It's softer than a fingernail.

Here's the silver paint after the tape was pulled.

I got some good, sharp lines.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 22, Fixing The Black Paint

I visually centered the mask line between the fairings. 

But - two of the black edge ended up to the right of center.

I used an old trick - 

On the left, a fine point Sharpie was sued to draw a new border line.

On the right, the white area was filled in with a wider point Sharpie. 

Perfect? No. But, it beats re-masking and spraying again.  

Here's how the #7 wrap will fit between the fairings. It will require some trimming to fit into the fairing fillet area.

There is some slight yellow discoloration in the old print.

Note the mask line at fin slot area looks rough. There is still a strip of masking tape in the slot to keep out the paint.

Here the fin slot tape strips have been removed. 

That bit of black above the mid point mask will be covered by the #6 wrap.

The rough mask line around the fairing will be covered with silver paint.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 21, Painting The Lower Body

The instructions imply that the model is painted after the wraps are glued on. 

The masking tape could easily tear and lift the paper wraps! 

I decided to paint the lower black rectangle roll patterns before gluing on the paper wraps.

On the left, the white areas are masked off for the black spray.

On the right, the lower fairing is masked for the silver to be added later.

The upper body is masked and beneath the body so no paint can get into the engine mount area.

The tape is lifted and the black areas remain. I will have some touch ups to do!

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 20, Fitting The Wraps

As usual,

I scanned the wrap sheet to have some backups.

The #1 wrap doesn't meet up around the short BT-52 tube!

I did pre-paint the tube. I know that does add to the outside diameter and could effect the fit.

But, wrap #4 does fit and the ends meet around the BT-60 main tube. 

This tube was also seam filled and painted white.

The #2 wrap didn't match up when wrapped around the balsa adapter.

The instructions do say: "Sand the balsa until the wrap fits perfectly."

I had to sand off the paint and into the filler to get a close fit.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 19, The Structural Skirt

I had scanned and printed extras on 110 lb. stock. Good thing I did!

The structural skirt is small and difficult to cut out and form. It took three tries to get a decent piece.

The first try was cut out with scissors, that inside arc cut was too small. The next two skirts were cut using a new blade knife.

The larger outside arc was cut with scissors.

Any high points were rounded off with 400 grit on the block.

A sharped point dowel was used to form the skirt before gluing.

Using very little glue, the tab was held shut with smooth tweezers.

The skirt was slid down onto the top of the the tower.

The seam line was rotated over the one corner of the tower to be less noticeable.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 18, The "Tower"

I'd recommend embossing fold lines before cutting out the tower.

I used the tip of a non serrated butter knife and straightedge to "line" the folds.

Form the tower into a box shape.

Make the folds sharp.

It takes very little glue to adhere the glue tab.

Hold the joint firm with tweezers as the glue dries.

The tower is slide down over the escape motor body.

Next up - the structural skirt.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 17, The Escape Motor

The escape motor is a 1/8" diameter launch lug.

The extended tip is cut at the mid point, marked here with pencil. The cut is made with a razor saw.

Slide and glue the launch lug over the lower half.

The tip is glued in the upper end.

Note I previously filled and painted the nose cone white. I figured it would be easier than filling the grain afterwards.

Here's the assembly - 

The nose cone and escape motor got a final shot of gloss white before the tower and structural skirt (next steps) are glued over the lug.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 16, Tunnels, Feed Lines & Ullage Motors

After shaping one end, 

The shorter ullage motor pieces were cut to length using a single edge razor blade.

The Ullage motors are tapered on the front only. The backs are left square.

The longer feed line fairings are tapered on both ends. 

Eight ullage motors and eight feed line fairings!

The pieces are small - Store them until needed in a zip lock bag.

Also cut two 5" lengths for the system tunnels and taper both ends.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 15, Tunnels, Feed Lines & Ullage Motors

Here's the mid section of my Dr. Zooch Saturn V build.

You can see the half dowel feed lines and ullage motors.

The older Estes kit also includes most of these details.

Three 1/12" diameter dowels are included. 

All are warped, one much worse than the others.

The straighter dowels will be used for the longer 5" tunnels. The badly warped dowel will be cut up for the short ullage motors and feed  line fairings. 

 

You'll find it easier to shape the tips before cutting the dowels to length. You have something to hold onto while the ends are tapered.

Shape the profile while viewing the flattened back of the dowel.

Turn the dowel over and round off the end in a teardrop shape.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 14, Planning Ahead, Peel & Stick Fins

The instructions say to attach the wraps before painting the model. The lower body requires masking which could lift the wraps when removing the tape.

I'll paint the over body white, mask and paint the lower black stripes, then add the printed wraps.

Peel and stick fins are cut out and placed on both sides of the clear fins.

These self-adhesive fins have faded over the years.

I scanned and redrew the fin stickers.

Extras will be printed.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 13, Filling The Upper Body

The balsa shoulder on the nose cone wasn't sharp.

CWF was brushed on just over the shoulder lip. While the filler is still wet, push it into the body tube and turn. 

This raises a bead of filler around the shoulder lip. Remove the nose cone.

After the filler dries, the sides are sanded with 400 grit on a block.

When this nose cone was machined, it had a slight dip in the sides.

On the left, the pencil lines show where the balsa was high. I had to apply more filler to the center low areas.

That horizontal pencil line below the command module is a reference line for sanding a straight line around the body.

The nose cone required a third pass of CWF to fill a few small  low areas that still showed under a bright light.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 12, Fitting The Fairings

Try as I might, I couldn't get those glue tabs fully under the former sides.

Usually, I can figure it out and get a decent fit by the fourth try. I ended up with a mediocre fit on the sides of all four fairings.

While the glue is drying, 

Try to get a straight line down the sides of the fairings. The sides will want to round out.

I used my sharpened dowel to press and form a straight line. You can only do this while the glue is still wet.

The gap at the root edge was filled with some CWF pushed in with a single edge razor blade.

Light 400 grit sanding followed.

This was shot with filler/primer. The filler/primer showed the raised fibers in the sanded cardstock. More light sanding removed the raised fibers.

After all the filling and sanding,

Some CA glue was wiped on the inside and rear edge to stiffen up the fairings.

Estes Semi-Scale Saturn V, Kit #K-39, Part 11, Fitting The Fairings

Steam forming the fairing seems to make them stiffer and stronger.

This is a dry fit of the fairing and clear fin. I wanted to be sure the root edge and fairing angle were close.

While holding the fairings in place, trace around the fairing edge with pencil.

Scrape off the filler/primer for the glue tab inside the fairing.

After steaming the fairings round, the glue tabs needed to be re-folded with a sharp line. I used a smaller, pointed dowel.

It's difficult to glue these fairings in place. Preparation helps!