Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 10, Decal Redraw

I wasn't very happy with the kit decals.
The black stripes that go between the fins had some rough edges. The Estes logo wasn't printed clean.
The roll pattern was sharp though.

I originally wanted my Estes Payloader II closer to the Centuri catalog versions. The roll pattern might have to be a bit wider to fit the thick walled BT-50 I used.

A paper wrap was used on the painted tube to get the roll pattern width.
The PAYLOADER name was set in the "Impact" style font. Impact was the closest I could find to match the Centuri decals found on www.oldrocketplans.com.
It did take some stretching and spacing to get the name right.
It's interesting to note, the decals on the plan site show "Centuri PAYLOADER", not "Centuri PAYLOADER II".

EDIT: I didn't end up using the roll pattern decal I drew for the slightly wider diameter BT-50H tube. The decal from the kit worked fine! The overlap lined up perfectly with no gap at the joint. I'll still use the Centuri logo and model name I drew, it might have to wait until I print some other decals. I always combine a small decal area (like the Payloader II decals) on a larger sheet so I don't waste 3/4 of a decal paper sheet.

Email about NAR Website - Model Rocket Building Techniques

An email from Eric - 

Chris,
I read through the NAR 'Model Rocket Building Techniques' and it is nicely done.  As a recent BAR I will say it took me some time to sort out my confusion between CWF and FNF and Sanding Sealer.  Now that I finally bought the right CWF from Ace Hardware, it makes sense.
I *cannot* get the right CWF at my (in CA) Home Depot. Home Depot only carries the Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler MAX (http://tinyurl.com/klr9yaz) - which I bought, thinking it was the same stuff. Your article on NAR (I found this original posting via google [http://old.nar.org/HowToBuildAModelRocket/TheBestToolsPage2.html]) threw me off because it says "The new product is formulated for outdoor use."  The MAX product says interior/exterior - so I thought I was on the right track, but the MAX product is super grainy and hard to sand - that was a frustrating mess. Then I found your blog post "http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/11/get-right-carpenters-wood-filler.html", which gave me the clue that I had the wrong stuff. I hunted down the right stuff at Ace. (no Lowe's near me)  The NAR website should show this picture.  The new CWF is *not* for outdoor use and as far as I can tell, and Elmer's no longer makes a tub of CWF with the green interior/exterior label that is shown in the NAR picture.  Also, Fill 'N' Finish should probably be changed to CWF throughout the NAR guide to help those BARs like me from searching high and low for the wrong thing. (BTW, I also checked my local Orchard Supply Hardware and they do not carry CWF - crazy). 

Eric

My response -

Thanks Eric, it's a good point.

I'll have to contact the NAR guys and replace that picture.

Here in Central Florida you can still find the orange lid CWF at ACE Hardware and WalMart.

The problem is, Elmer's seems to change their products every few months! Vendors (Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.) change their available Elmer's products.

Elmer's changed their white glue to the "New Stronger Formula" and now engine mounts and couplers can freeze up when installing . The new formula CWF "MAX" is another can of worms!

Glad you found the right filler!

Chris Michielssen
www.oddlrockets.com
www.modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 9, Primer and Sanding

Once again the Tung wood grain is showing up.
Grain holes showed up on the right side of each forward fin strakes. More filler and sanding!






The hole in the shoulder base of the replacement BMS nose cone needed filling. I used 1/2 of the screw eye dowel and sanded it flat with the base.




Even this far into the filling and priming I'm still working on the rounded edge transition between the main fin and forward strake.
With the primer sprayed it's easier to see the rounded leading edge for sanding corrections.



The first white undercoat was sprayed concentrating on the the fin fillets.
Some 400 grit was wrapped around a Q-tip for cushioned sanding.
Enlarge the picture to better see the sanded glue ridges on the body tube side of the fillet.

Falcon 9 Launch, March 1, 2015

The SpaceX Falcon 9 was launched at 10:50 p.m. on March 1.
On board is the Eutelsat 115 (Satmex 7) and ABS 3A satellites from Cape Canaveral Air Force Station’s Space Launch Complex 40 (SLC-40). 

I'm fortunate to watch many launches from my front porch.
On a night launch you can follow the flame for a few minutes before it disappears.
This one looked like it was pulsing. Brighter then dimmer every few seconds.

Top photo by Walter Scriptunas.

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 8, Gluing It Together

Mentioned earlier, the engine mount was recessed a bit more than directed in the instructions. This was so the model would rest on the trailing edges of the fins and not wobble on the extended engine hook. The engine hook finger tab was cut off earlier to give it the old school look.




I tend to glue and fillet the launch lug first, then line up the fin marking guide with the launch lug already in place.

After the Titebond M&TG fillet has dried, I run my fingernail down the recessed fillet to see if it is smooth. If I feel any bubbles or if it is uneven, another fillet is applied.




Once again, the provided Estes fin marking guide doesn't meet up!
Even if it were close I wouldn't trust it.
I'll make up a marking guide by wrapping a piece of paper, marking the overlap joint and folding it into quarters.

Stefan Jones NARCON 2015 Pictures

Stefan Jones posted some great pictures from the recent NARCON in Seattle, Washington.
To see them, CLICK HERE

My favorite picture is the Astron Mark on a original wooden Electro Launch unit.

Thanks for sharing the pictures Stefan!

Estes Payloader II #3022 Build, Part 7, More CWF Filling

The nose cone fit is loose in the clear payload section.
I'll build up the diameter the same way as the nose block with a coat of CWF.
I kept the CWF away from the new, sharp lip.
This will be sanded to a tight, friction fit in the payload tube.

I could have used masking tape but the shoulder gets gummy after a while.






With the filler/primer sprayed you can better see the inside leading edge angle joint.
Some 400 grit was wrapped around the stick part of a Q-tip to even out the rounded leading edge.

To round out the corner you can add a small fillet of Titebond M&TG.