Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 6, Those Conduits (Tunnels)

I did a dry fit (no glue) to see how the wood tunnels fit against the molded ends.

They were a little higher than the top of the adapter plastic.

The top was take down with 220 grit on a block.

I still left it a hair high to follow up with the next step.

These tunnels are about 1/4" wide, that could leave a gap against the curvature of the tube.

I wrapped some 220 grit around a 3/4" wide dowel and sanded a slight curve into the flat bottom of the tunnel.

This dip running along the bottom will fit the tube better and also lower the top so it will better match the molded tunnel ends in the adapters.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 5, Those Conduits (Tunnels)

Here's how the instructions have you cut and separate the wood conduits.

A difficult task, cutting at an angle using a strait edge and knife.

I cut the first tunnel out, then changed my method.

After trying to sand the sides at an angle, the first conduit didn't seem wide enough for smooth transition meeting against the molded plastic conduit ends.

I ran a pencil down the trenches. I cut the tunnels apart setting the blade centered between the two pencil lines.

On the left is the tunnel end showing the sides extension.

On the left is the before and after. A sanding block with 220 grit smoothed out the sides. Follow with 400 grit.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 4, Engine Mount Gussets

These are probably the thinnest centering rings I've ever run across - The thickness of two layers of 110 lb. cardstock. I've used gussets in the past to beef up an engine mount.

   

I wanted the gussets at a 120 degree spacing or close to it.

A copy paper strip was rolled around the BT-20 tube. Two even folds were made giving three gusset positions.

Wrap around the tube and mark at the folds and where the strip meets.

This is why I save excess balsa left over from other kits.

3/32" thick balsa strips were cut to fit between the two centering rings. These were made a little wide to be sanded even with the outside ring edge after the glue dries.

Here's the final, finished engine mount. 

It's always surprising how much stronger gussets make the mount feel.

This shouldn't be considered "bulletproofing" a LPR model. Just some lightweight strengthening.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 3, Engine Mount

The engine block was installed just above the engine hook slot position using a glue ended dowel.

The engine hook had a slight reverse bend in it.

I bent a gentle curve to better retain the motor.

The instructions mentioned a hold down strap on the pattern sheet (back of face card). There wasn't one.

No big deal. I used a wrap of electrical tape which would last longer than masking tape.

A drop of wood glue was set over the upper bend of the hook.

The finished mount. Those rings are thin!

The upper ring is set down about 1/8" to allow a glue fillet on both sides.

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Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 2, Engine Mount

The low inside end of the engine mount tube got a swipe of CA glue. The edge also got a wipe of glue.

Sand the glued end square with 400 grit.

This end will be exposed, it is not a glued surface. The CA glue seals and hardens the tube end.

 

The engine hook slot cut is made in two steps.

Note the blade is flipped over making two small joining cuts.

Stab and make about half the cut.

Turn the blade over and complete the cut from the other side.

The two facing cuts give you a slot with squared ends - less chance of a tear.

For whatever reason, Estes didn't include an engine block in this kit. I added one.

New Estes Banshee Kit

I thought this one looked familiar!

It's (sort of) an upscale (ST-7 to BT-50) of the old Centuri wedge finned Bandito!

Here's the cardstock wedge fins assembly.

To see the instructions: CLICK HERE

"Cut out the eight holes as well?