Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 14, Moving The Launch Lug

On the flipside (underside) - 

Pencil mark the lug line, the ends just inside the 2 3/8" lug length.

Using a straightedge, cut some very shallow lines just into the paint.

Scrape off the paint, it will chip off between the scribed lines.

The same launch lug was glued on to the scraped area.

With the lug in the right place, 

now I can sleep at night!

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 13, Moving The Launch Lug

I got the launch lug placement wrong! 

I'm usually on top of these things, but for whatever reason the launch lug was glued on the top when it should have gone on the underside. 

    

I didn't glue fillet the lug, so the removal was fairly easy.

The glue that was left was sanded off using 400 grit.

Mask off the area just around the glue sanded area.

Notice the edges of the masking tape are raised so the sprayed paint will feather in instead of having a sharp edge.

Carefully spray just the open area -

After the paint dries, light sanding follows. Another coat may follow if the surface isn't smooth.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 12, White Paint

Assembly is complete except for the parachute and shock cord ties.

Time for paint! Note the dowel/engine casing painting wand locked in the engine mount. I tend to leave this handle in through much of the build, paint and decal placement. It's easier to hold and not as risky for fingerprints.

This shows some of the spots where the sanding has removed glue blobs. The intake fillet also had some high spots. 

I've been using Ace Premium Enamel (Ace Hardware brand) spray paint for a while now. Shoot when humidity is low, around 2:30 in the afternoon. 

The Ace paint dries to the touch in about an hour, recoat within an hour or after 48 hours.

After one hour I was able to handle the model and do the initial undercoat sanding shown above.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 11, Gluing On Launch Lug & Rudders

I no longer waste time with glue fillets on the sides of launch lugs. That glue line was straightened and the width narrowed by pinching your thumb and index finger together. 

Run your finger "V" down the lug making a straight, narrow glue line. 

Carefully place the lug with the glue on the pencil line, 1 3/4" from the rear of the main body tube.

Here's the rudders glued onto the wing tips.

Assembly is finished, ready for white undercoats.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 10, Fitting The Rudders To The Wing

Stack the rudder assemblies to be sure the glued angles are consistent.

If they don't line up, apply a little warmth with the low setting on a heat gun and gently bend at the glue joint to match the other rudder assembly. 

On the outside (visual) seam,

Drag some CWF down the joint and immediately smooth and remove excess with a fingertip.

Sand after the CWF dries.

The outside side seam is sanded flat for a stronger glue joint against the edge of the wing.

Use a sanding block but don't go any wider the the 3/32" thickness of the wing.

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 9, Sanding The Rudder Edge Angle

The root edges of the rudder fins have to be sanded at an angle.

Mark the flat root edges shading with the side of a soft pencil.

The picture on the right shows the angle sand about halfway through. The pencil shading gives a better contrast so you can sand the line evenly.

I'd recommend using a sanding block, like the Estes Ultimate Sanding Bar. To reach a 3/4" dihedral height, the sanding angle is not very steep. 

On the right, you can see what's left of the pencil line. Sand until the pencil shading is gone - no further.

With a weight on one side of the rudder assembly,

Raise the other outside edge to 3/4".

Estes Aries SST, #1927, Build, Part 8, Engine Mount & Re-gluing A Wing

The Kevlar, elastic and heat shrink wrap are pushed down and through the engine mount for gluing into the main body tube.

With the Kevlar line, shock cord and heat shrink tube out the back of the engine mount - 

To get the lines out the top, I made a hook out of a coat hanger. Slide it into the top, hook the wire on the shock cord and pull through the front of the tube.

 

After the glue set up on the wings I double checked the alignment. It was off, enough that one wing was cut off and repositioned.

Be sure to cut into the glue, not into the tube when removing a fin.

The engine ribs are glued 3/8" from the root edge.

I cut a strip of tape, 3/8" wide to use as an alignment line.

The picture shows a dry fit, no glue yet.

Note the rear of the rib, it overhangs the rounded trailing edge. The back end of the rib was sanded back, just to the start of the rounded edge.