Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 8, Drawing Up Decals

New decals were drawn up in Corel Draw. 

I probably could have used the decal scan from Jim Z's but I like a challenge. It also looked like the Centuri kit decals were on a sheet taller than 11". Home print decals are a standard 8 1/2" x 11" size.

The original kit had some sort of embossed thermal foil used in attic insulation.

I did a post about it in February of 2020: CLICK HERE

This time around:

The second decal grid sheet on the right side shows my attempt at the solar panel fin coverings. 

The 3" x 3" square fins will get a chrome Monokote skin followed by the blue grid water slide decal. Results were very good the first time this technique was tried: CLICK HERE

In the lower right of the solar panel decals are the fine ink lines used to finish the Mini Bomarc.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 7, Fitting The "Super" Shroud

Mentioned in the previous post - 

Here's the smaller end showing the inside stepped shrouds.

This gives a better fit and adhesion area onto the smaller tube.

One of the previously made centering rings is glued into the doubled shroud. 

After the glue dries, the edge should be stiff enough to sand off, even with the face of the centering ring. 

The fit is good -

Even if the low end were a hair wider than the larger tube, the 3nd printed instrument wrap would cover any shroud lip.

In the next post:

Now that all the parts are almost ready, the actual build can start. 

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 6, Making A "Super" Shroud

Cardstock shrouds have always felt like the weakest part of a LPR build. You can make a stronger two layer "nested" or super shroud.

For a complete explanation of the technique, I wrote an article for the Apogee Peak Of Flight: CLICK HERE
 

Go to payloadbay.com and click on "Tools", then to "Transition Tool".

Enter your tube diameters and length of the transition.

I printed the transition on 110 lb. cardstock.

The unused lower half of the page is cut off and taped behind the printed transition. Two layers are cut out at the same time. 

Note the glue tab in the upper right, added it with a pencil line.

I don't pull the shroud under a straightedge or pull it over a table edge.

Form the shroud in the heel of your hand with a smooth dowel. Press the dowel in an arc matching the curve of the shroud. 

Your shroud should be formed until it can stand on its own.

I don't put glue on the outside glue tab,

the glue stick goes on the inside where the tab will touch.

This makes the glue area easier to handle and prevents any glue getting on the outside of the shroud.

Burnish the glue tab area over a dowel set on the inside.

Repeat with the second shroud.

Pick the best shroud to go on the outside.

 Apply glue to the outside of the central shroud and press the two together placing the seam joints on opposite sides. 

After drying you'll notice how much stronger a nested shroud is. It almost feels like sheet plastic.

Inside the smaller end  the tow shrouds are "stepped" making a better joint over the upper tube. 

Look at the bottom and you can see the inner shroud overhanging the outside shroud. This will be sanded off in the next post.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 5, Making Centering Rings

The outside circle is cut with scissors.

The traced pencil line will be a bit large.

Stack the rings on the smaller tube and reduce the diameter with 220 grit on a block.

Again, sand and check the fit.

Here's a good fit in the 2" lower tube.

I used my rotary punch to make an engine  hook notch in the nozzle bell centering ring.

The inside wall of the 3D printed nozzle was thicker than the original kit vacu-formed part. The ring sat high, almost over the top.

The diameter was cut down with scissors.

After rounding the edge - 

The final fit of the nozzle ring is recessed.

Estes Mini Bomarc Clone, Kit #TK-5, Ink Lines Added

I printed up some decals for the Skylab. I only used 3/4 of the sheet leaving me some open area. The Mini Bomarc "ink line" decals were added to the Skylab decal page.

Being narrow, these were a little tricky to apply and keep straight.

The detail lines do add to the finished look.

I didn't roll the ends over the rounded leading and trailing edges. There's a very slight gap.

Estes Pro Series II Mega Red Max

Estes has released a 29mm three engine cluster model, the new 4" Mega Red Max. Checking the instructions: CLICK HERE 

It looks like it has laminated fins you'll actually have to cut out! Oh, the 1960s horrors!

To the younger (laser cut) builders: "It'll build character." You'll end up with thicker, stronger fins than the previous 3" diameter Big Red Max.

The "decals" are vinyl this time around.

I'm glad to see the fin decals are parallel with the table top like the original BT-60 Citation kit. On some recent versions the fin decals were set at an angle, parallel with the leading edge of the fins.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 4, D.I.Y. Centering Rings

TIP: One of the best centering ring materials is the left over mat board found at a frame shop. Ask the manager if they have any scraps, leftover pieces too small to be used in a frame.

If you're lucky they might give them to you for free! If not free, cheap anyway.

Trace around the diameter of the tubes. Trace the larger tube first, it's easier to center the smaller tube afterwards. 

It might take a few tries to get the smaller pencil ring centered.

With a new blade, cut the center out first. 

Cutting the center hole first is easier when you have more of the cardstock to hold onto.

That small circle in the center was on the mat board from an earlier build. I should have erased it for the picture.

Some 320 grit was rolled around my finger to enlarge the diameter..

Sand a bit, check the fit - repeat until you get a good friction fit.

When the hole is to size,

you might find a raised lip around the edge.

Leave the lip. It gives you a tighter fit and a wider gluing edge later on.