The BIG Fix! of the Mega Mosquito & Strikefighter Canopy

This is why you should do a white undercoat before spraying the final color.

The Mega Mosquito replacement nose cone was molded in a fairly opaque white. I didn't think a white undercoat would be needed. I was wrong!

I'll wait two days before spraying a gloss white. Two days after that the final  yellow should match! Live and learn.

I'll need a clear canopy for the Strikefighter build. I'm using the same canopy found in my Odd'l Rockets Fighter Fleet kits.

It seems you always have to throw out the first vacu-form attempt. Then usually make four sets of two (eight canopies in total) before the heating unit on the small vacu-form machine gets too hot.

I was on a roll today. I made 10 sets of two for a total of 20 canopies!

The BIG Fix! of the Mega Mosquito

A few years back I had a Kevlar/shock cord separation on my Mega Mosquito. The nose cone and parachute floated away, the body landed top down leaving a little dent in the tube.

I picked up a replacement BT-70 Bertha style nose cone at Jonrocket.com. The nose cone felt too tight in the older body tube.

The inside lip of the body tube got a damp (not wet) water wipe around the top. 

Dampen the paper towel and squeeze out excess water before wiping down the inside of the tube. You only want to dampen the inside tube wall.

The nose cone was flipped over and pressed into the damp body tube.

This helped push out the dent and re-round the body tube.

Don't force the nose cone in too tight! You only want to slightly flare out the tube end for a slip fit of the nose cone shoulder.

After a few hours, remove the nose cone and check the tube shape. It should be rounder and have a better fit against nose cone shoulder.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 17, Glue Fillets

I lay small pieces of masking tape around the end of the body tube to keep paint out of the inside of the tube. This makes for a better fit of the nose cone.

All the fine sanding of the fairing pieces paid off - 

The surfaces are even and uniform. 

I tried to keep the glue fillets small on the fins and stabs.

More pinhole bubble holes showed up when the white paint was shot.

There are some rough areas around the scoop. 

More work - more glue fillets and sanding.

Mini Goblin Kit & T-Shirt

Estes just released a Mini Goblin kit and t-shirt.

CLICK HERE for the kit

CLICK HERE for the t-shirt

 

For any of the "older" design purists out there - 

The "3" should be flipped on it's back so it looks like a stylized bat.

Check out the original instructions at Jim Z's: CLICK HERE

If the model were standing upright the 3 is flipped 90 degrees on it's right side.

I'm being picky. Still, an interesting original design tweak.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 16, Stabilizers & Wing Gluing

The core tube and vanes assembly is slid into the nacelle tubes. Rotate them as shown in the picture below. Notice the (rear) short vanes are even with the back of the nacelle tube. 

The stepped root edge of the stabilizers are glued to both the BT-20 and BT-50 tubes. I had to sand each fin root individually for full contact down both tubes. 

On the left side of the picture you can see the gap. The right side picture is after sanding and fitting.

The smaller stabilizers are glued on, in line with the wing and the vane.

The stab and fin root edges are close together. Save yourself some frustration and glue fillet the stab before gluing on the fins.

The fins are glued on. 

These root edges also had to be fitted to fully sit on both tubes.

This picture view is from the rear.

I didn't need the fin angle alignment guide to glue the fins on.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 15, Some Early White Paint

I shot the fairings early to better see the fillets. 

Look close - the glued edge areas are shiny, the center of the strip isn't. 

The edge fillets are sealed by the glue. The paint soaked into the cardstock where there wasn't any glue. Paint will seal things up, some light sanding is needed to even out the surface.

 

The core tube and vanes would be impossible to paint once they are slid into the nacelle tubes. These will also get a shot of gloss white.

I did mask the glue areas. Notice the thin tape strips covering the outside edges of the vanes.

After the paint dried, I found some small fillet bubbles.

Rather than using the glue bottle on the bubbles, I applied small drips onto a toothpick tip and pressed the glue into the recess holes.

Estes Strikefighter, Kit #2015, Build, Part 14, Gluing On The Fairings

The upper picture shows how the glue beads up when applied to the cardstock fairing edges. This is much more glue than is needed.

Using a finger and a Q-tip, remove the excess making the glue line as even as you can.

The fairing ends should have been curved as shown in the previous post.  

The nacelle tube glued onto the wing - 

It's easier to start with the shorter nacelle fairing pieces.

Set the end tips into the root edge and the rest of the fairing should lay right in place.

Double check to be sure the fairing is straight. Use a Q-tip to softly press the glued fairing edges down.

Here's both the nacelle and wing fairings. There are eight in total.

To be honest, I wasn't looking forward to gluing the fairings on. They turned out to be easier than I thought. Keep the fillets small.

I shot the fairing areas with gloss white, knowing there would be some glue fillet sanding.

The scoop was glued on, 1/8" from the bottom of the BT-55 tube.