Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 5, Cutting Out The Vacu-form Parts

I saved the large hull disks for last. 

As before, trace around the edges with a ball point pen.

Score along the pen lines.

Free up the edges for easier bending and cracking by cutting relief segment lines.

Sand the disk edges with a block.

The right side picture shows the upper and lower primary hull halves dry fitted. Note the overlap of the top half.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 4, Cutting Out The Vacu-form Parts

Here's what I mean about the high pieces being thin at the baseline.

There was a crack in the thin area of the secondary hull.

This happened before I sanded the base edges.

A strip of the scrap plastic was cut and folded to a "V" shape.

This was glued in place over the crack using liquid cement.

Another area of concern - 

The front of the secondary hull halves were also thin.

Sand the edges on a block using 220 then 400 grit sandpaper.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 3, Cutting Out The Vacu-form Parts

Cutting out vacu-form parts can be a delicate operation. 

Take your time!

The oldest method is probably the best -

Draw around the bottom recess with a ball point pen. This gives you a defined line to cut on.

Score (no need to cut all the way through) along the ink line with a sharp knife.

Bend back and forth along the scored line until the flat excess cracks off.

You can break off the scrap plastic in short segments. Cut lines (like pieces of a pie) away from the scored line for easier bend and separation.

Sand the bottom edges smooth with 220 grit on a block.

You are reaching the finished edge when you notice small strings of thin plastic rolling off the bottom.

For comparison,

On the left is the dome after cutting off the sheet.

On the right, 

The dome after sanding the base. Sand off all the turned lip so the sides are flat.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 2, Parts Of Interest

The large vacu-form sheet.

At the top you can see the horizontal tunnel recess to fit the engine mount tube. 

While the forms are sharp, the secondary "hull" pieces (center) are high. The plastic is thin around the base edges.

The plywood was poorly cut. 

Granted, die cutting plywood would be difficult to do!

The plywood wasn't great quality.

The backside of the plywood -  

Many of the die-cuts didn't go through to the other side. I had to free up some lines with my knife.

A clay weight came in the bag but lead washer weights were supplied.

I'll be using the lead weights, held in place by the screw eye. The "recovery probe" nose cone was the same one used in the Estes two-stage Midget and Andromeda.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 1, Parts

This is going to be an interesting build.

My kit version was an original from 1975. The model was later reissued as a 25th anniversary edition, sold in a box with paint.

My first Enterprise build was in 1976. I remember being disappointed with the fit of some parts. To be stable, a long "recovery probe" is connected to the model. The starship is dragged behind during boost. 

It was launched twice, both flights had damage. The vacu-form parts are delicate.

You can review the instructions at Jim Zs: CLICK HERE

No overall parts picture - there was just too many parts to capture.

Take a look - 

I Wish Manufacturers Would Do This, Part 8 . . .

I Wish Manufacturers Would Do This -

I've been suggesting this one for years - 

This idea was inspired by the old Centuri engines. I wanted to make an additional improvement.

The Centuri engine power designation was printed eight times (horizontally) around the lower third of the engine.

At a glance you could pick the appropriate engine for your rocket.

But once installed in the motor mount, the printed engine power was out of sight, covered by the engine mount tube.

My idea:

Typically, the nozzle end of the engine extends 1/4" out the back of a rocket. I'd like to see the engine type designation at the bottom rear of the engine.

This way it can be seen after the engine is loaded into the motor mount.

There might be reasons why the print area can't get close to the base of the engine.

Even experienced fliers have been known to load the wrong engine power or delay.

With the engine name visible out the back of the mount, it could be identified all the way up to when the micro clips are connected.

Some of the advantages:

• Success for first timers, more return fliers.
• Fewer mistakes and less impacts before ejection.
• Safer for the consumer and manufacturer.

The engine power and delay band is printed in the appropriate color for it's intended use: GREEN = Single Stage, PURPLE = Upper Stage and RED = Booster engine.
In the picture you can see the engine name once, it's actually printed three times around the nozzle end of the engine.
What do you think?

I Wish Manufacturers Would Do This, Part 7 . . .

I Wish Manufacturers Would Do This - 

INCLUDE A FEW EXTRA "TEST" DECALS

If a kit decal sheet has some extra space, include a few extras or duplicates.

This allows the builder a first "test soak" and test the transfer without risking larger necessary decals on the model. Sometimes I use the Estes or Quest logo decals as a test.

 

This could come in handy if the decals are older. The test decal would let you know if you might need a clear coat or Microsol liquid decal film before soaking.