Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 13, Tunnel Gluing

Much like the tunnels on the Saturn V build - 

The tunnel ends fit better when sanded to a small angle. 

The tunnel ends on the adapters aren't molded at a 90 degree angle.

This shows a good fit.

The tunnel at the bottom has been glued and taped in place.

The upper tunnel position shows had the filler/primer scraped off just inside the pencil lines.

The wood used to make the tunnels is prone to split. I had it happen a few times when cutting to size.

 

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 12, Tunnel Marking

GOTCHA: The three tube marking guides didn't meet up when wrapped around the tubes.

The tunnels were taped down to scrap cardboard and sprayed with filler/primer. It's much easier to seal and fill these off the model.

The instructions have you cut the tunnels to length before gluing them on the model.

I'd recommend cutting the length 1/8" oversize and sanding the ends to size. You'll get a tighter, cleaner fit.

Also - Apply the glue to the underside of the tunnel, not glue on the body tube. Apply a glue line, wipe off excess and press in place. You'll have more control and less squeeze out of the glue on the sides of the tunnels.

Marking the payload tube is a bit confusing.

The tunnels are to the right of and just below the raised triangle shape in the upper adapter.

Enlarge the picture to see the pencil lines.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 11, Engine Mount Gluing

I used a dowel to roll a line of glue inside the body tube. The upper ring would slide into the glue ring.

The mount is held beside the body tube alongside the dowel. The top of the dowel is just under the upper centering ring.

At the bottom, the dowel is marked with pencil for a depth guide.

Note the masking tape around the engine mount. The tape is only there for a pencil mark at 1 9/16" from the end of the tube. The low end of the tube will extend 1 9/16" out the back.

Apply a line of glue around the top of the dowel.

Roll the glue ring inside the tube using the pencil line on the dowel for the correct depth.

Slide in the mount. when you reach the pencil depth mark, turn the mount to spread and even the glue at the upper centering ring.

The lower ring fillet was applied using single drops of wood glue applied with a Q-tip. Enlarge the picture to see the glue fillet.

The low conduit section and base cap are glued together using Fabri-Tac. Notice the alignment "key" notches before gluing.

Apply more Fabri-Tac to the inside of the tube and the low end of the motor tube. Slide in the low conduit assembly rotating the engine hook relief notch around the engine hook.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 10, Some Parts Prep

The blow molded adapters fit loose in their body tubes.

The ones that are to be glued in got the shoulders built up with two lines of Fabri-Tac.

Let the glue lines dry before trying the new fit in the tubes.

The nose cone still had a seam recess after sanding down the raised mold line. 

This was filled with a bead of medium CA glue. This CA bead will take a while to dry.

Sand to surface with 400 grit on a block. 

The molded eyelet on the third stage was small and thin. I wouldn't trust it at ejection. The small eyelet reminds me of the Bullpup kit nose cone. I've had that one break in the past.

A hole was drilled in the shoulder. The shock cord will be tied through it and the larger hole in the base.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 9, 2nd Stage Adapter Insulation

Some CA glue was run around the tube/adapter joints at the top and bottom. 

The inside tube seam got a good drip of wood glue smoothed out with a Q-tip.

After the glue dried,

The overhang was trimmed down and sanded even with the top and bottom of the plastic adapter.

The bottom lip of the adapter is still exposed to the ejection charge.

Some epoxy was mixed and rolled on with the Q-tip. When standing on end to dry - be ready, the epoxy will run. Keep an eye on it and wipe off any drips as it sets up.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 8, 2nd Stage Adapter Insulation

A build comment: 

I have two LTV’s from way back. One is retired, the other is restored and flies great! I would recommend extending the engine tube past the blow mold adapter below the “Italia” decals. The ejection charge blew apart the adapter on both models. Especially if you sand down the seams, they get very thin. I also use two parachutes for recovery. It’s a beautiful model. 

Good luck! Ken Caldwell

I was also concerned about the hot ejection passing through a blow molded adapter. Hard plastic could probably take it, but blow molded (with some thin areas) maybe not.

Ken suggested extending the length of the BT-20 motor mount tube from the mount through the adapter. I decided on insulating the interior of the adapter.   

I cut a piece of scrap BT-60 about 1/2" longer than the adapter.

Even though I had already widened the hole to 5/8" diameter for the ejection gasses to pass through - 

I cut off more of the adapter end for the tapered tube I was going to install. I did leave some of the turned under shoulder lip.

The BT-60 tube was cut down its length with scissors.

An overlapping cone was formed and slid into the adapter. The overlap was marked with pencil.

An overlap tab was drawn, then cut for an overlap.

The insulating tube "cone" was pressed into the adapter to a tight fit  against the top and bottom openings.

Gluing and trimming in next step.

Estes LTV Scout, Build, Part 7, Great Tubes!

Oh, how I miss the older, tighter better made tubes!

They feel denser and stronger. 

The picture shows the BT-60 tube lower tube. The seams are very tight and were easily filled with CWF,   

The upper tubes didn't need any CWF, I couldn't find the seam recess! Just a good shot of filler/primer and sanding should take care of anything remaining,

Here the shorter tubes are slid onto rolled cardstock handles for a filler/primer spray.

Above - the BT-60 shot with gray filler/primer.

After sanding with 400 grit.