Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 20, Engine Mount

The engine mount assembly is pretty standard.

The kit didn't include an engine block. I installed one using a Q-tip to apply a glue ring from the top. The block was slid in until it rested in the glue, against the upper bend of the hook.

The "recovery probe" assembly is held by a second engine hook that clips into a slit in the engine mount tube. A slit is made at the bottom of the glued in coupler.

This upper hook is not glued in. I'm checking the slit and position of the hook.

Here's the finished mount.

A bead of glue was applied to the upper bend slit of the tube.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 19, The Radar Dish

A hole is made in the radar dish center to fit over the sharpened dowel.

Start the hole by spinning a blade tip in the center.

Enlarge the hole using a small rat tail diamond file. By using a file to open it up, you'll end up with a rounder hole.

Careful, it's easy to make the hole too big. File a little and check the fit. 

Glue the dish using liquid plastic cement.

The "ball" at the end of the dowel tip is a drop of white glue. You might have to build up the diameter of the ball using a few applications of glue.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 18, Fixing The Vacu Form Cracks

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

   

Wood glue fillets were used to fill the joint gaps.

Here's a picture from a previous post showing the cracks that started in a thin plastic area. 

The same method is used to fill the recessed mold lines in nose cones.

Squeeze out a drop of medium super glue on scrap cardboard. Dip a toothpick in the drop and drag the tip across the crack.

It may take a few applications to build up and fill the gap.  

After it dries, sand with 400 grit.

It's better but could still show a faint separation later after paint.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 17, The Homing Beacon

The homing beacon is cut off the vacu-form sheet the same way the larger pieces were.

Ball point pen outline, then scoring the edge.

Break away the sides by cutting and cracking off angled wedges.

The sides are a little rough after the first cuts.

Sand the bottom flat until the edge starts to roll off.

The finished beacon wasn't perfectly round.

The instructions say to sand down the overlap seam 3/8" wide, 1/8" from the rear. The pencil marks show how wide that marking is - too long.

On the left, the overlap ridge is removed to fit the actual diameter of the beacon.

On the right, the fitted and glued on beacon.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 16, The Hull Pylon

The internal pylon assembly was set inside one side of the secondary hull. A pencil line was traced around the bulkhead.

Contact cement was applied on one side at the pencil bulkhead line and at the pylon doubler contact areas.

Repeat for the other side.

Before allowing the pieces to touch - carefully align. 

The pylon assembly was pressed in place.

Be sure to check that the slots line up at the back.

The secondary hull assembly.

Two small hairline cracks occurred on the forward end of the hull. The cracks formed where the plastic was the thinnest. 

I'll fix this in a later post.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 15, The Hull Pylon

The doublers are glued on each side of the hull pylon.

Do your best to center the doublers

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Here's how they lined up.

I lined up the doublers using the retainer ring recess at the top. That left the front and rear of the doublers short against the center piece.

Rounding the front and rear did clean up the short side pieces.

For a better fit against the motor mount tube, a curve was sanded into the top of the laminate pieces. Otherwise, there would be gaps on both sides when glued up.

The bulkhead piece was very loose around the back notch of the central pylon piece.

A cardstock strip shim was glued on the inside for a tighter fit.

Launch! R.O.A.R., Christmas, FL, November 22, 2025

Still hot, still humid in November! Winds were low, though - 

Dakota the Blue Merle Sheltie was quiet, laying in the shade under my car.

First launch of the Semroc/Centuri EXCALIBUR with a B6-4.

Arrow straight (obviously due to the six fibre fins) to an estimated 400'.

No damage when picked up.

First flight of the Centuri SKYLAB clone.

A C5-3 got the heavy model up to nearly 400'.

The model was rigged for horizontal recovery but the chute lines got tangled at ejection. 

One solar panel fin and one side booster broke off on landing. Looks like an easy, clean repair.

Alex Baker launched two of his Odd'l Rockets Fighter Fleet series, the F-16 and a Blue Angels decorated F-16. 

For a size comparison,

My FlisKits MMX SATURN V was pictured next to Mark Ferrarro's Apogee 1/70 scale Saturn V.

Mark's was about the best Saturn V flight I've seen using a G76-4 motor.

My Micro Saturn was unstable! Probably got to 8 feet in that loop. Ejection on the ground and closest to the pad.

Another first flight - 

Finally launched the Estes LTV SCOUT with the recommended C6-5.

Boost was labored but true. Altitude was probably about 400'. 

I set the build up with two chutes instead of the single one in the kit.

Both ejected and opened. At landing, two of the small fins popped off and were found nearby.

A favorite - The Excelsior Decals HONEST GOON.

It's a bulky, heavy bird but always comes through.

With the C6-5 altitude was around 425'. 

Full chute and no damage.

Five up, five recovered. Four broken fins, all repairable.