For a complete explanation of the technique, I wrote an article for the Apogee Peak Of Flight: CLICK HERE
Go to payloadbay.com and click on "Tools", then to "Transition Tool".
Enter your tube diameters and length of the transition.
I printed the transition on 110 lb. cardstock.
The unused lower half of the page is cut off and taped behind the printed transition. Two layers are cut out at the same time.
Note the glue tab in the upper right, added it with a pencil line.
I don't pull the shroud under a straightedge or pull it over a table edge.
Form the shroud in the heel of your hand with a smooth dowel. Press the dowel in an arc matching the curve of the shroud.
Your shroud should be formed until it can stand on its own.
I don't put glue on the outside glue tab,
the glue stick goes on the inside where the tab will touch.
This makes the glue area easier to handle and prevents any glue getting on the outside of the shroud.
Burnish the glue tab area over a dowel set on the inside.
Repeat with the second shroud.
Pick the best shroud to go on the outside.
Apply glue to the outside of the central shroud and press the two together placing the seam joints on opposite sides.
After drying you'll notice how much stronger a nested shroud is. It almost feels like sheet plastic.
Inside the smaller end the tow shrouds are "stepped" making a better joint over the upper tube.
Look at the bottom and you can see the inner shroud overhanging the outside shroud. This will be sanded off in the next post.
How do you deal with the visibility of the seam?
ReplyDelete