The original Estes kit had a black fin that needed a white border on the #1 decal. Here's how I made a white border so the red decal would show up against the black fin.
The "2" and "3" decals were applied.
I drew up a simple paper wrap that folded over the leading edge for easier positioning. This folded piece and pencil marks are identical on both sides.
These numbers were set down a bit, closer to the landing pads as shown on the catalog page.
Now the tricky part:
The black border is cut off the "1" decals.
The top of the "1" isn't really rounded but nobody will notice the difference.
I'll never get a smooth round cut with my hobby knife, so I selected the appropriate size barrel on the rotary punch.
Just punch off the black edge.
Carefully set your straightedge and trim off the remaining black borders.
Just leave the smaller red "1" in the center.
TIP: Notice the straightedge is turned over. Sometimes I want the edge closer to the surface of the cut without the cork backing raising it up.
I drew up a simple paper wrap that folded over the leading edge for easier positioning. This folded piece and pencil marks are identical on both sides.
These numbers were set down a bit, closer to the landing pads as shown on the catalog page.
The black border is cut off the "1" decals.
The top of the "1" isn't really rounded but nobody will notice the difference.
I'll never get a smooth round cut with my hobby knife, so I selected the appropriate size barrel on the rotary punch.
Just punch off the black edge.
Just leave the smaller red "1" in the center.
TIP: Notice the straightedge is turned over. Sometimes I want the edge closer to the surface of the cut without the cork backing raising it up.
Too bad Estes no longer sells some of the decals they used to carry -- the D-13 set would fit the bill here (looking at the scans on the JimZ site would indicate that this was indeed the decal sheet included in the kit).
ReplyDeletehttps://www.ninfinger.org/rockets/catalogs/estes73/73est72.html
Some years ago, there was an article in Finescale Modeler covering the topic of home-print decals using your computer. To get around the problem of not being able to print in white (unless you've got something like the ALPS dye sublimation printer), it suggested using white decal sheet. In this case you can print external border for the outline letter and the inside of the letter in black on white decal sheet (and hopefully the black print on the decal sheet will match the black paint).
ReplyDeleteOn the aside, one possible source for decals (perhaps not for this specific model but in general) might be found in the model railroad section of the hobby store. Most of the times they'll be dry transfer type. You could always apply them onto clear decal sheet, then trim it out and use it like any other waterslide decal.
ReplyDeleteSome years back I was looking for some PanAm markings (not only the "globe" logo but also the lettering which have unique serifs) -- ended up finding a suitable set in the model railroading section.