Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 13, Placing The Purple Fin Trim

The wider purple trim is cut much the same way as the chrome strip. 

A light wipe of glue stick and press the template onto the trim material.

Cut out the purple trim, a little long for overhang of the trailing edge. 

The purple is rolled over the leading edge and evenly spaced from the chrome strip.

The picture was taken after the overhang was trimmed off.

The left side shows the rolled over purple and chrome on the rounded leading edge.

The inset picture shows the trimmed squared trailing edge.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 12, Placing The Chrome Fin Trim

With the right side of my ruler set into the root edge - The right side of the chrome strip is about 2 1/16". (The ruler has a little extra border on the left side.)

This measurement is consistent from the top to the bottom.

 Notice the masking tape set down as a right side vertical guide for the chrome strip.

Set the center of the chrome V strip on the rounded leading edge.

The tails on the sides aren't stuck down yet.

Set the right side edge down using the tape edge.

When all it lined up, burnish the chrome strip down.

Trim off the overhang from the trailing edge with a sharp knife using a short back and forth sawing motion. 

With the tape guide removed, 

the chrome strips are placed, parallel to the root edge line.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 11, Cutting The Chrome Fin Trim - TIP

TIP: The larger Estes Optima kit supplies you with holographic tape trim. It's a long strip that won't wrap over the rounded leading edge of the fin, leaving a gap. Here's how I made a continuous "roll-over" piece. 

   

A fin tracing and indications of the purple and chrome trim.

The tracing is mirrored so the pieces could smoothly cover and connect on the leading edge.

A little bit of planning could saves a lot of frustration when dealing with peel and stick trim.

Here's the two templates cut from cardstock. The wider purple piece is on the left, the thinner chrome strip is to the right.

Mark the center fold over line.

Note the top and bottom ends are extended beyond the trailing edges of the fins. This allows an overhang to be trimmed off later.

Apply a light wipe of glue stick to the backside of the thinner chrome template.

The glue coat holds the template in place as you cut the chrome underneath.

The top picture shows the template tacked to the chrome. Cut around the template using a straightedge and sharp knife.

The light wipe of the glue stick allows the template to be lifted after cutting and used again.

Merry Christmas from the Model Rocket Building Blog!

I heard him exclaim, 

as it flew out of sight—

"Maybe I should have reefed that chute."

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 10, Planning Ahead For Paint & Trim

The instructions don't mention where the black paint starts on the upper end of the body. 

I assume the black paint separation mask is at the low end of the payload tube. The payload tube (catalog #031380) length doesn't come up on the Estes website.

To estimate the length - On my computer screen, I enlarged the instruction picture close to the diameter of the downscale BT-55.

The black paint area measured out at 8 1/2" from the tip of the nose cone down.

The instructions show colors and dimensions of the holographic tape trim. I'll simply half the height.

At Hobby Lobby I found some self adhesive metallic purple vinyl.

The self adhesive chrome is left over from the Estes Doorknob build. I didn't use the chrome trim on the blue "sport" version. I sometimes hang onto unused parts and trim for moments like this.

While not an exact match to the full size Pro 2 holographic trim, it's close enough for my downscale.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 9, Gluing On The Fins

Here's the build with the rear and forward fins in place. 

On this downscale, the smaller fins are 4 5/16" from the rear of the tube.

The rear lug is glued 1/4" from the end of the body tube.

The forward launch lug is glued 7 5/8" from the rear.

TIP: You can fill bubbles that form in dried lug fillets. It takes three applications of wood glue.

Apply and smooth the first fillet, let dry.

Apply second fillet, smooth and let dry.

Apply a third fillet, smooth and let dry.

Those bubbles should be gone -

Launch! R.O.A.R., Christmas, FL, December 20, 2025

Low 70s in December? That's warm for central Florida this time of year.

Winds around 5 mph.

Not a big group today, some first timers who bought C6-5s for their Estes Crossfire builds. I gave them some B6-4s for the first launch.

First up for me was the 2/3rds size Centuri UFO with a C5-3. Perfect boost to about 150 feet. Just as advertised, at apogee it turned over and "floated" down landing on the wire legs.

Here's the upside down landing.

My best flight of the day goes to the Quest STRIKER AGM sporting the original Enertech design paint.

A C6-5 pushed it to 425 feet. 

I reefed the chute for a faster descent which led to two fins broken off. The lower 2/3 of the fins didn't adhere well to the plastic tail cone. The smaller fairing fins were still securely glued to the body tube. 

I like to fly at least one MicroMaxx rocket for variety and laughs.

This is the FlisKit MACME SHREW, a downscale of the large Acme Spitfire.

The body looks like stacked, crooked tin cans.

It is stable - to about 40 feet. The short MMX ejection fired before apogee.

The narrow streamer slowed descent.

The New Way FIRECAT 4 finished the day with an Estes B6-4 to 325'.

On dislodged fin at touch down.

I felt the need to stop at four launches, my new dog Dakota should head home. She spent most of the morning under my car seeking some cooler shade.

Four up, four recovered with a few broken fins.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 8, Downsizing The Optima To A BT-55

Downsizing is often a compromise.

I don't have a Optima shaped nose cone. For now, I'll be using the nose cone from the Monarch kit.

The Estes online specs say the Pro Series II Optima has a 2.5" (outside diameter) body tube.

This might be a BT-80 tube with the diameter rounded down to 2.5". The BT-80 diameter is actually 2.6".

This downscale is built around a BT-55 at 1.325" diameter, very close to a half size downscale.

For my build, I used the 2.5" tube measurement, downscaled to the BT-55 size of 1.325".

Multiply all dimensions by .53 to get your downsize dimensions.

The full size Optima is 48.5" tall.

Multiply the 48.5" X .53 = 25.70" downsize height.

The nose cone length is 5" exposed. 

That leaves 20.70" of body tube. The fins are even with the bottom of the lower tube.

Using just the original two tubes from the Monarch kit, the downscaled Optima looked short.

The lower tube (with the engine mount) from the Monarch kit is 9" long.

I cut a scrap BT-55 tube to the remaining 11.70" for the upper tube.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 7, Nose Cone Seam

This kit had a definite stepped seam on both sides of the nose cone.

Before filling the low side, sand the high sides down a bit using a sanding block.

To fill in the remaining recess, some medium CA glue was run as a long bead down the seam. 

The wet glue can run so only do one side and let dry. The CA glue bead on the surface can take some time to dry.

Sand to surface with 400 grit on a block.

The small, thin shock cord tie ring in the nose cone shoulder are prone to breaking. 

The tie down ring was cut off. A hole was drilled for the shock cord attachment.

No Posts? I'm Camping!

I'll be camping with Dakota the Sheltie from Tuesday, December 16 through Thursday the 18th. No posts as I won't have internet access!

Build posts should resume on Friday the 19th.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 6, Rounding The Leading Edges

From the new Optima kit instructions:

The leading edges and outside edges are rounded.

The trailing edges remain square.

The short leading edge of the forward, smaller fins was tricky.

I used my sanding block to knock off the edges then a piece of 400 grit around my fingers to get the final round.

Here's the three forward fins,

note the squared trailing edges.

 

Here's the larger rear fins showing the rounded forward and outside edges.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 5, Cutting Out The Fins

There is enough "free" balsa on one side of the Monarch fin sheet to cut out one of the larger, lower Optima fins. 

The other two larger fins will be cut from two glued together  Monarch fin pieces.

Before gluing together the fin pieces, sand the laser cut burnt edges square with a block. Glue the two pieces flat with weight on top.

 

The third fin only needed a small fin tip extension glued on the trailing edge.

From the remaining balsa the smaller forward fins are cut.

All the fins are cut and gang sanded.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 4, Fins

 

I decided to kitbash the Monarch into a downscale Optima.

I've always liked the dual fin design and bold graphics.

I couldn't find a fin pattern so I looked up a rocksim drawing on rocketreviews.com.

This was copied and dropped into Corel draw.

To do the quick downscale, a circle was drawn to 1.325", the diameter of the Monarchs BT-55 tube. The drawing was reduced to match the tube diameters. This also reduced the size of the fin templates.

A print was made and the patterns cut out.

Now . . . how to cut new fins using the existing kit laser cut balsa sheet.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 3, Engine Mount

The finger tab was cut off and the engine hook flipped over.

A subtle curve was bent down the length of the hook for better motor retention.

The upper centering ring got a small punch for the added Kevlar line.

The upper ring was slid on just over the upper bend of the hook for strength. 

The rest of the mount was assembled as shown in the instructions.

A 1/16" diameter heat shrink tube was slid down the Kevlar line and against the top of the upper centering ring.

Thanks go to Rick Randoll of NewWay Space Models for this Kevlar heat protection idea. 

A heat gun on low setting shrinks the tube around the Kevlar line.

The inset picture shows the Kevlar line below the base of the lower ring, set into the glue fillet.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 2, Questions?

It looks like I already sanded the coupler. 

Sometimes these red couplers are too tight and can get locked up in the wrong position when gluing.

Why are two joined tubes used in this design? Was it a SPEV?

The parts list says it's balsa, but a blow molded nose cone is included. No screw eye is provided, it's not needed.

The instructions don't mention using glue on the screw eye threads.

The plastic nose cone has one of the small, breakable eyelets for shock cord and parachute attachment. I'll fix that in a later post.

GOTCHA - In order for the rocket to sit flat on the fin tips, 

The fin sanding instructions are wrong!

The leading edge (shown here) is actually the root edge.

The root edge is the leading edge.

I'm not going to use the Monarch fins. 

The next post will show something more interesting.

Estes Monarch Build, #7214, Part 1, Background & Parts

I'm taking a break on the Enterprise build. I remember pausing the Klingon build a few years back. Sometimes you just have to ease up and build something simpler.

A few years back, I picked up some Monarch kits in an Estes clearance sale. 

We all have kits that sit in opened bags, pieces being cannibalized in other builds. 

That might explain some parts questions.

 

Here's the Monarch, it reminds me of a three fin Big Bertha.

It also looks like the Quest Big Betty with a sleeker nose cone.

BT-55 based, 18mm engine mount. 

There was no parachute in the kit bag, I probably used it in another build. I have plenty extras.

The balsa is tight and stiff.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 30, Intercooler Dowels

Four short 7/32" lengths of the remaining 1/12" diameter are cut. I usually cut a few extras and pick the best ones for the build.

I like to keep small pieces in zip lock bags until needed.

The dowels were held using tweezers. A line of glue was applied. 

The dowels are placed using the tweezers.

The low end of the dowels butt up against the front of the intercoolers.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 29, The Tail Caps

GOTHCA! The tail cap liners (slip-in shoulder base) won't fit into the tail caps!

The diameter of the liner is the same diameter of the tail cap. Notice the sides of the liner taper towards the right side.

The instructions say to "sand the liners until they fit 1/4" into the tail caps. I sanded using 220 grit.

The picture to the right show how much of the edge was sanded off that first shoulder.

 

After sanding, one tail cap liner slid in.

The second liner required a cut slit in the side. No amount of sanding the tapered shoulder would allow a slip fit.

Estes USS Enterprise #1275, Part 28, The Recovery Probe

When the face of a centering ring is exposed - 

I like to sand, seal, then re-sand the face.  

This rear ring face was sanded with 220 on a block,

then got a wood glue coat rubbed in,

Then more sanding with 220 and 400 grit.

The long 1/8" dowel is there to reinforce the thin walled BT-20.

The upper picture shows the glue line before the dowel was set down.

My dowel had a slight warp. I let the glue set up a bit before placing the dowel. The half dried glue helped hold the dowel to a straighter line. Fillets are going to be fun!

In the picture, this sealed ring face is facing down, against the long dowel.

The BT-50 parachute tube is slid down and butts up against the outside edge of the dowel. 

Apply a ring of glue inside the BT-50 and slide the tube down until it stops against the top end of the dowel.