I like to mark the body tube seams with a fine point pencil for visibility when filling.
The tip of my knife blade is dipped in thinned CWF. Wipe off the back of the blade leaving the filler on the top side of the knife. Set the knife in the recess seam and with a back and forth motion of the knife, leave filler in the seam.
You should be able to leave filler for a length of about 1 1/2". If not, your filler needs more thinning with water.
The instructions spell out how to tie the elastic shock cord to the Kevlar before gluing the engine mount in. You don't want the Kevlar line to extend beyond the top end of the body tube. This can lead to a "zipper", ripping through the body tube.
Set the mount along the side of the body tube with the 1/4" pencil mark on the mount even with the end of the tube.
Straighten the Kevlar line out down the tube to the top. Mark the Kevlar 2" down from the top of the tube.
At the 2" mark, tie the Kevlar to the elastic shock cord using a simple, overhand knot.
The short, larger diameter heat shrink tube is slid over the knot.
Hit with a heat gun or hair dryer at the low setting. On the left is the before, on the right is after using heat.
You can cut off the excess.
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