Scale Bash Book

NAR Technical Services is again carrying the Peter Alway book:
SCALE BASH
Build and Fly Scale Models from Non-Scale Commercial Kits
Plans and patterns for 78 models of 29 real rockets.

Originally printed in 1998, this second printing is from this year.

You can order it HERE 


Mr. Alway has done all the research work for you -
Using available 3:1, 4:1 and 5:1 conical nose cones you can build 24 models of different sizes using the standard Estes BT tubing.
Note: The 3:1 shape means the height of the nose cone is three times the base diameter.
The 11 degree conical nose cone is used for six more models.

Original size drawings and colors are included.
On the right are the fin patterns for the Hydac rocket.
On this one, four fin sizes are included for BT-5, BT-20, BT-50 and BT-55 versions.

FlisKits MMX Saturn V Build Part 12, Streamer Install

The supplied Kevlar line was pretty long, I cut off a few inches.

On the Flis MMX kits the Kevlar is attached to the nose cone with a small nail. This kit had one of the newer, split brad nails.

Press a pin hole in the cone shoulder. Tie a knot in the Kevlar.
Squirt glue into the hole. Press the knot into the hole.
Apply more glue to the hole and press the nail in place locking in the Kevlar.

The instructions have you tape the streamer halfway down the Kevlar line.
With the streamer halfway down the Kevlar, the nose section would hit the lower body during recovery.

I taped the streamer as shown in the picture so the nose section is between the streamer and lower body.

BMS Re-opens!

BMS has re-opened in Pahrump, Nevada!
http://www.balsamachining.com

It's a good thing, too! 
I need some laser cut fins for the Odd'l Rockets kits.

Rocketarium Hydra Sandhawk Finished

I was happy with the build and look of the finished Hydra Sandhawk.
This BT-60 based model is tall and impressive.
The nose cone mask was a challenge but turned out well.

The staging on this one is different with a 24mm D in the booster and a 18mm engine in the sustainer.
The small booster fins require almost one ounce of clay in the nose cone for stability.

I didn't care for the supplied peel and stick decals. When set in place the gray boltheads were almost translucent. These decals weren't difficult to draw up and print at home.
This kit did have some masking and paint challenges, as most scale models do.
Down the road I'd like to try a build of the Rocketarium Jayhawk.

Built Estes Constellation On Sale on EBAY

I have a recently finished 

Estes CONSTELLATION

on sale on EBAY at:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESTES-CONSTELLATION-MASTER-BUILT-MODEL-ROCKET-/151095540173?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item232dfef9cd

The fin pods were shaped from a dowel, not from laminated balsa pieces.
The red "1" fin decal had a white border cut from white decal material.

This model will be featured in a upcoming blog build.

FlisKits MMX Saturn V Build Part 11, Decals

The lower band decals have to be cut apart to fit around the fairings and launch lug.


The vertical black bands seem too tall. To fit around the top of the skirt it was raised above the top of the scalloped ring.

The USA decal to the left of the launch lug was set right against the lug.
Cut it out and apply separately from the other decals.

The upper decal can be applied in one piece.

Just be sure the vertical black bars are set right above the bars on the bottom.

The left sides of the skirts are painted black, the fins are painted silver.

At first I tried to use a fine point Sharpie to do the black but the black match wasn't good.
The Sharpie line did give me a straight black line down the skirt.

I ended up painting the skirt with some black paint and a brush.

Rocketarium Hydra Sandhawk Build Part 23, Decals

I glued the card stock pieces on after painting so they aren't sealed.
I applied two coats of Future acylic with a Q-tip.

The bolt decals I made are water slide and I didn't want the card stock to swell up.

I cut the booster decals width short on one side. The width of the clear backing was cut this way on all the decals.
This gave me a spacing reference when the clear coat was set right next to the attachment piece.

I knew the booster decals weren't applied on top of the fin attachment pieces, but to the side.
I started setting them down on the wrong side! I didn't realize they went near the root edge of the fin and not on the body tube.

Here's how they should have been applied - 
Enlarge the picture and look for the bolt heads on the gold fin root edge.