What's Going On In This SpaceX Rocket Video?

Here's a great video showing what's really going on -

To see the video: CLICK HERE

Color Wheel Compatible Colors?

From the Facebook Estes Model Rocket page: Eric K. posted: 

"I was thinking this might help in color choices for your next build."

   

Kirk G. responded:

"No. it doesn't help at all."

 

White isn't even mentioned.

Another thing that always struck me as strange - When light color filters are used, white ends up as the combination of all colors. Black is the absence of all color. 

Explain that concept to a five year old with a box of crayons. To a kid, white is the paper you add colors to. When color crayons are layered and combined, you end up with a dirty purple/brown - almost a black.

I never found the Color Wheel helpful when picking out compatible color combinations on model rockets. In my teens, spray paint color picks were whatever was left in the garage.

Now, I tend to go with a three color "rule" on sport models.

First major color, usually a light color overall. White, maybe yellow. White works best if decals are to be added. Never an overall green! Did you ever try to find a green Centuri Star Trooper in the grass?

Secondary color, a bright darker color used on fins or nose cone (one quarter to one third of the total surface area) Orange, Red maybe Purple. 

Third color accent - Black nose cone, decals and/or some chrome trim.

If you want a good idea how it should be done, peruse the pages of the 1973 Centuri Catalog: CLICK HERE

For me, this is the work by which all catalogs (previous and new) can be compared.

Estes Klingon Battle Cruiser, #1274, Finished

 

Well, I'm glad that's over!

Not a fun build. The chrome stickers went on fine, the water slide decals in one of the two kits weren't useable.

The rear view picture makes the model look big.

It's not a large rocket.

At least this one doesn't have a parachute "probe" extension like the Enterprise did.

That long decal windows decal is lifting. The other decals on this sheet seem fine - at least for now.

This is a tough build. If you see it on Ebay - I probably wouldn't bid on it!

Estes Klingon Battle Cruiser, #1274, Step 27, Decals

I thought about scanning the decals but I wouldn't be able to home print a replacement because of the white areas. 

I had built two of these - 

The decals were old so I gave them a coat of decal film. 

The two kits must have been from two different batches. Only one decal sheet was useable, even after the decal film coat.

One sheet transferred after 30 seconds in the soak water.

The second decal sheet did transfer, but wouldn't stick to the model.

Micro-Sol didn't help the bad decals.

Look at the left side of the long windows decal. It is starting to lift. Some Future applied with a brush to hold it down.

Below that is the black "eye". It's a two piece decal that has to go over the raised seam.

The white "TEZ" decal centers over the Mylar sticker.

There are some tiny red decals that go on the rear of the engine pylons.

More small windows between the front dimples,

Windows on the adapter.

It's a big parachute considering length of the lower BT-50 body tube.

I set the parachute beside the body tube allowing for the length of the engine below it. There isn't enough room for wadding and the shoulder of the adapter.

Estes Klingon Battle Cruiser, #1274, Step 26, Chrome Trim Positioning

A few of the chrome trim pieces were long (on the left) and two others too tall (right).

I didn't want to do the trimming after the pieces were on the model. These were stuck back on the backing paper and cut.

As my usual practice,

The sticky back pieces weren't touched where I could help it.

I positioned the pieces while they were stuck on just the tip of my hobby knife. 

Here's the outside wing trim pieces.

The windows sticker was trimmed earlier to fit the the height of the flat side of the bridge.

Estes Klingon Battle Cruiser, #1274, Step 25, Small Brush Painting Details

Considering how small the hand painted areas are, it doesn't make much sense to include the brush paint bottles. 

Small black dots in the primary hull recesses (upper left) 

Silver paint in the rear ridge centers of the warp drives (Upper right) 

Two small red dots on the top of the bridge (bottom)

You can't brush paint the black into the round recesses. You could dip a sharpened dowel in the paint and touch the centers of the recess making a round dot.

I used Sharpie pens. 

Rotating a larger round point pen in the hole left a center where the tip couldn't reach.

A ultra fine point Sharpie filled in the center.

Here's the finished black. 

The Sharpies came through again.

The red dots were done with a fine point brush.

This Klingon nose cone reminds me of Squidward.

The "Bonus" kit included a bottle of red paint - for these two little dots. No other red on the model.

The third brushed color is silver.

If you've got a decent square brush, it's easier than you would think.

Estes Klingon Battle Cruiser, #1274, Step 24, Painting The Light Gray

One of my two kits included two cans of spray paint. One is a primer, the other a light gray. 

Also included were four small brush bottled paints in black, red, silver and thinner. These kits were probably over 20 years old. I'll use the small brush paints but really don't trust the small cans of spray paint.

 

I don't use tack cloths. 

When tack cloths are new, they can leave an film on your model.

I simply use a cheap chip brush to clean off any dust.

One of the warp drive assemblies cracked right down the seam! A few more drops of CA and some finger pressure closed it up. 

As mentioned, the kit came with a short can of Testor's Light Sea Gray paint. The can was too old to trust.

I used the Ace Hardware Light Gray. 

It is just about the same shade.

There are plenty of nooks that are hard to reach with the spray paint.

Shoot all the tight inside areas first, then shoot the entire model.

On the right are two areas that didn't get good coverage. I went back afterwards and touched up the gray using a brush. The gray paint sprayed into a small mixing cup.