Centuri Draconian Marauder #5336 Build, Part 19, Paint & Decals

The rest of the body was shot with the Rusto Metallic Brown.
The first picture was taken indoors,
the inset picture was taken outside. I did this to show the reflective quality of the paint.
This model was spray painted in stages. There is so many nooks and crannies that would be impossible to get inside areas covered.
I would probably end up using more paint (trying to get it in every corner and between the wing panels) spraying a fully assembled  model.

This brown metallic isn't as shiny as the other Rusto metallics I've used. It dries like a semi-gloss. Decals adhere best to gloss finishes.

The subtle"pebbled" finish will need to be smoothed a bit where the decals will be placed. I used some very old 400 grit. It had been used and cleaned off a few times. It was probably closer to a 1000 grit by now, just enough to smooth the surface.
After the light wet sanding, polishing compound was used.


There are many small decals squeezed onto the decal sheet.

These kit decals go back to the late 1970s. They might transfer, but I can't take any chances.
TIP: To start and find out how a decal transfers, cut out one you probably wouldn't use or care about ruining.
Held up to a strong light, I could see the very small "Decal #36894" had a clear overcoat border.
It broke apart after soaking! Good thing I didn't start with the larger skull wing decal.

TIP: I rarely use MicroScale Decal Film, but it comes in handy and can save old kit decals.
A coat of the film was lightly brushed over the decal sheet.
It goes on looking fairly thick but after drying you can't see the overcoat.

Lonnie's Shroud Line Hook

Did you ever have trouble getting shroud lines through the tight loop on a snap swivel?

Lonnie Buchanon showed me a tool he made at the last R.O.C.K. launch.
TIP: The end of a stiff wire is bent in a tight, long "U" shape.
Hook the "U" around the shroud line loop, feed and pull it through the swivel end.
Simple and effective.

Launch, Schoolyard, June 11, 2015

I got to the schoolyard a little earlier this morning, about 6:45 a.m. No wind and overcast skies, still warm enough to work up a sweat.

I flew three MicroMaxx models.
The Quest RTF NO MERCY was first up after two tries resetting the igniter. The streamer did eject and opened, the secret is to fold it in pleats. Don't just roll it around the piston post.
The FlisKit CRAYON was second with altitude around 90 feet. The streamer didn't eject, the body separated in two and fell slow.
Not pictured is the Applewhite BIC PEN. Estimated alititude was 100'. The entire streamer, Kevlar line and engine block blew out the front end. The model fell in two sections. This is the second time the engine block has been pulled completely through the front end at ejection. I'll try a different glue to get the small engine block to stick.

A favorite, the Semroc ASTRON had its 17th flight with a Quest A6-4.
Estimated altitude was 325'.
Arrow straight boost and full deploy of the spill holed 12" chute. A perfect textbook flight.







The Quest VIPER flew again with a Quest A6-4. Altitude was about 325'.
A spill holed Odd'l parachute landed it a little too close to the street. The launcher was moved 25 feet to the west.

This is a sturdy model, only recently did the plastic fin can crack down a root edge. Some CA glue closed it up.

Something different -
I've been using the burst feature on my camera for a few months, it takes 7 pictures per second. I have seen animated GIFs for years but never made one.
TIP: This GIF website is FREE and easier than I thought it would be. It just takes a few extra moments to load all the pictures.
Give it a try at: http://gifmaker.me/

This is the 13th flight of the Quest STRIKER AGM launched with an Quest B6-4. Altitude was an estimated 325'.
Even with the long body the Quest engine did pressurize and deploy the chute. Sometimes the Quest ejection charges seem weak.
This model always seems to end up with a broken fin root edge where it contacts the plastic tail cone, but not this time.
This was my best flight of the day.

And to finish, The Estes SUPER ALPHA launched with an Estes B6-4.

It has a 3/16" lug on it but launched fine off the 1/8" rod.

Again, the estimated altitude was about 300', about right for this size field.

The parachute didn't fully eject and stayed halfway out the top of the body tube. The nose cone did come off and was enough to help the model fall horizontal for a soft landing. No damage.

Seven up, seven recovered.

New Ceramic BLAST! Deflectors Available

I just got the first shipment of Odd'l Rockets Ceramic BLAST! Deflectors in the mail!

On the left is the older deflector, on the right is the new wider design. The molds were made from an actual MPC ceramic deflector.
The new design works well with most all LPR models.
The hole at the top is drilled for a 1/8" rod and is easily enlarged for 3/16" rods with a small jewelers file.

No shorted micro clips and much less flame "flash back" off a standard flat metal deflector.

Check your Odd'l Rockets vendor for availability.
If they are not there yet, ask to be notified when they arrive.

Centuri Draconian Marauder #5336 Build, Part 18, Cabin Sides and Canopy

It took some coaxing to get the cabin sides to line up and stay glued down.
Some fillets of Titebond M&TG will hopefully fill any gaps.

The canopy sides were lightly sanded to try to get the unit edges flat.
This helps for a better glue edge and fit against the cabin surface.






The canopy is glued along the front fold of the cabin piece.

The remaining two dowels go along the inside front landing gear cutout. The instructions say they are for additional strength.

Centuri Draconian Marauder #5336 Build, Part 17, Top Wing & Cabin

The third top layer of the wing is glued in place.









It took some final trimming to get the cabin sides to fit around the rudder and body tube.To get the

Even after careful trimming the fit wasn't great.

Careful scraping was done with a knife tip to get down to the body tube and bare card stock.







Here's the cabin glue lines.
The top and bottom got glue inside the edge.
The sides got glue right at the edge to act as an internal fillet.

Making a Stable Model Rocket, String Testing

Here's a great YouTube video from Bernardotech.org on
Stability and Swing Testing
CLICK HERE 

"A tutorial on how to design a model rocket in such a way that it will be stable and fly correctly. If you want to learn about model rocket stability, this is a good place to start."

The video illustrates how a weather vane will turn into the wind. Using the same principles, a stable model rocket should fly straight.

I first tried swing testing in 1969 after reading about it in the old Estes catalog "Yellow Pages" Technical Section. 
I wish had this video back then. My rocket slipped off the string right into a wood fence.