Centuri Draconian Marauder #5336 Build, Part 19, Paint & Decals

The rest of the body was shot with the Rusto Metallic Brown.
The first picture was taken indoors,
the inset picture was taken outside. I did this to show the reflective quality of the paint.
This model was spray painted in stages. There is so many nooks and crannies that would be impossible to get inside areas covered.
I would probably end up using more paint (trying to get it in every corner and between the wing panels) spraying a fully assembled  model.

This brown metallic isn't as shiny as the other Rusto metallics I've used. It dries like a semi-gloss. Decals adhere best to gloss finishes.

The subtle"pebbled" finish will need to be smoothed a bit where the decals will be placed. I used some very old 400 grit. It had been used and cleaned off a few times. It was probably closer to a 1000 grit by now, just enough to smooth the surface.
After the light wet sanding, polishing compound was used.


There are many small decals squeezed onto the decal sheet.

These kit decals go back to the late 1970s. They might transfer, but I can't take any chances.
TIP: To start and find out how a decal transfers, cut out one you probably wouldn't use or care about ruining.
Held up to a strong light, I could see the very small "Decal #36894" had a clear overcoat border.
It broke apart after soaking! Good thing I didn't start with the larger skull wing decal.

TIP: I rarely use MicroScale Decal Film, but it comes in handy and can save old kit decals.
A coat of the film was lightly brushed over the decal sheet.
It goes on looking fairly thick but after drying you can't see the overcoat.