"Waiting to finish an Estes Mini-Max, with waterslide decals. You use the drop of liquid detergent in the water, which has worked for me.
The Apogee site recommends using white glue in the soaking.
apogeerockets.com/Advanced_Construction_Videos/Rocketry_Video_91.
Your thoughts?"
My response:
I've never heard of using white glue in the soak water!
This might work, but I've never tried it.
Decals from different vendors are so inconsistent, sometimes you can't move them once they are set down.
I wouldn't want a tough to position decal to be any more sticky!
TIP: The inconsistency is sometimes the thickness of the clear topcoat. Too thin and the printer ink dissolves. Too thick and the decal ends up looking like a peel and stick.
While I hate Krylon color paints, their clear acrylic spray still seems to be the best for clear coating a home printed decal sheet. Three coats (not too heavy) seems to be about right. It seals the printer ink and gives you the right thickness.
Home print decals are good, but never as great as a kit decal. Face it, you are not printing decals on a large press or silk screening.
As Gus (Steve) on TRF once wrote: "They are a different animal."
Most every source recommends using a very small drop of detergent soap in the soak water.
It helps break up the surface tension in the soak water. Others say it helps the decal slide on the model surface.
On response on TRF tells you: "The decals are ruined because the drop of soap breaks down the adhesive on the decal."
I've never had a problem with the small drop of dish soap in the soak water.
(Judging by the forum responses, many others haven't had a problem either.)
Wet the surface on the model with a drop of water where the decal is to go. Set the decal on the wet surface.
That water under the decal helps lubricate the surface for easier positioning.
TIP: If the decal can't be easily moved, use a wet brush to work some water into the edges. The soft brush will get some water under the decal without tearing the edges.
After the decal is in in position, don't rub over it with a paper towel. A thin decal could tear.
Roll a wet Q-tip over the decal to work out any air bubbles or water drops.
I don't brush Future acrylic all over a model to seal the decals. I've never had great results with brushing or spraying Future.
Now I dip a Q-tip in the Future and wipe off the excess. You won't need much of the Future to apply a thin, protective coat.
The wet (with Future) Q-tip is rolled over the decal and the edges.
I've never had decals peel or lift after this light sealing.
Good Luck!
Chris Michielssen
Odd'l Rockets
I went with the tried & true detergent method to finish the Mini Max. Worked great as usual! These Estes decals were a bit thicker than normal, but not nearly as bad as the peel and stick ones. Thanks for the advice I get from the blog and your emails!
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