Goblin Decal Placement?

Moot rocket nerd point of the month - 

I've brought this up before when I was assembling a Goblin kit a few years ago.
Joe Hess posted a picture of a recent Goblin face card on the Estes Model Rocket Facebook page.
I noticed the decals and how they were placed. Notice how the "Goblin" name is visually tight against the outside edge of the fin. The "G" side is angled down below the "N", the name in line with the trailing fin edge.



Here's the instruction drawing from the Jim Z page. The Goblin name is set perpendicular to the body tube. There is more room now using the shape of the fins.
Look at the "3" decal. It's flipped 90 degrees on it's back! The "3" decals were purposely set this way by designer Wayne Kellner adding to the crazy motif.

Here's a TIP to get the Goblin decal in the original position -
The decal is set on the fin face, still wet and can slide.
Set a square corner down the root edge, here I'm using a CD case. Check the baseline of the decal. It should read "flat" when the model is on the launcher. (Or . . . if the finger tab wasn't there, the model might stand up straight on the fin tips!) 

Estes Sasha Build #7271, Part 12, Lugs & Paint Handle

If the launch lugs are stiff and you have a new single edged razor blade, you can cut them without any internal support.
If your blade is dull, slide a dowel into the lug for support and a cleaner cut.





Three launch lugs are glued on the assembled rocket.

Be sure they are in line. I set a bamboo skewer next to them to check the alignment.

Two lugs on the upper stage are meant for single stage launches.

The larger the model, the harder it is to get the paint spray smooth. I sprayed the model in three separate segments - booster, upper stage and nose cone.

Here the booster has some paper towel stuffed into the upper end, the coupler will be glued on after the paint to keep it clean.

I used a BT-50 sized long coupler for a painting wand. A notch was cut to fit the lower bend of the engine hook.

Ashasta-Sadie Instructions Are Back!

Maybe they never left?
My older address didn't work anymore -
Now the kit instructions are hosted by Blues Rock

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Scroll down for the plans -

You might find a few instruction sets that are not hosted on Jim Zs or Old Rocket Plans.

Estes Sasha Build #7271, Part 11, Upper Motor Mount & Fins

I've already deviated from the assembly order and glued on the upper fins.
It's probably easier to glue in the upper motor mount before the lower fins. They'll be in the way when smoothing out the low centering ring fillet.

The ring of glue shown in the lower picture is probably too much. I don't want it to shrink the body tube and make a "Coke bottle" indentation ring.





The mount was slipped in, both tube ends are even.

Here I'm applying a glue fillet using a Q-tip, one drop of glue at a time.






The tunnels are glued on.
They are balsa, the grain was filled before gluing on the body tube.







The lower fins are glued on, even with the end of the body tube.

The small fins are placed between the upper fin positioning lines. Notice the lower tunnel is in line with the small rear fins.

Estes Sasha Build #7271, Part 10, Antennas Glue & Fill

This is not a necessary step, but you know me!
I had to decide which would look better, rough glue fillets on the joints or a smoother surface transition.

Some thinned CWF was dragged down the joint similar to how I'd normally fill the body tube seams.

On the left is the CWF after sanding with 400 grit.
On the right I've dabbed on some filler primer with a Q-tip for a final fill.

Here's the upper stage fins, antennas and filler smoothed.
All eight fins are ready for gluing on the upper body in the next post.

NARAM - 61 Manufacturer's Forum Video

To find out what's coming in Model Rocketry - 
Watch the NARAM 61 Manufacturer's Forum
To see the video: CLICK HERE

Garth Illibrun let us know of the Apogee video on the Estes Model Rocket Facebook page.
On the left is John Langford of Estes Industries.

Estes Sasha Build #7271, Part 9, Antennas Shaping

I assume the short fin dowels are "antennas", that's what I'm calling them.
I sealed the long thin dowel with a wipe of clear varnish applied with a paper towel. The dowel was lightly sanded without altering the diameter.

TIP: Instead of cutting then rounding eight short dowel pieces . . .

Round the end of the long dowel, then cut off a single 1" length. Set that piece aside.
Then round the end then cut off another 1" length until you have eight pieces.

It's easier to round one side of the dowel while it is long enstead of eight short pieces.

The dowel is glued into the slot on the root edge.

Check from the front to be sure it is in line with the fin.