I always liked the font Centuri picked when their catalogs went to the newsprint format. I didn't like a rocket catalog that looked like a newspaper, but the master font used throughout was sharp. It gave the product line a modern look and consistency.
You can type a word or two into the upper box then every font will show those words.
I typed in "Streamer D" and started going through pages of fonts.
I liked the one in the middle called "Racing Sands One". It's easy to read and is set in italic. Italic fonts seem to suggest movement.
You just have to hit download, extract and install.
Here's the names set in Corel Draw.
I always make extras. The names are strictly for identification and to make the finished model a little more interesting. All the models will use the same font. A decal won't add any weight. The "D" stands for Duration, the "A" is for Altitude.
Below the names is my NAR membership number. Every competition model must have your NAR number on it.
Years back all my rocket names were set using press type or Letraset. Home print water slide decals weren't available then. I used a lot of press type lettering sheets when I worked in a print shop. Letraset is still available but I don't think there are as many font choices as there was in the 1970s.
Good 'ol Letraset sheets, which were quite useful back in the day (especially back at a time when having a high-resolution graphics-capable printer hooked up to your computer -- that is *if* you even owned a computer - wasn't common).
ReplyDeleteI do remember that time after spending quite some time nearly completing applying the lettering directly onto the model (with a number of times where I had to redo some mistakes), that I came to the realization that I could've applied the lettering onto some clear decal scraps that I had (and I had some fairly large pieces too that had been trimmed off some decal sheets of various models) then apply the completed result onto the model just like a regular waterslide. There would've been no need for the elaborate masking tape guidelines, adding some pencil tickmarks to set the spacing, etc. on a curved surface... (forehead slap)
Hi Naoto,
DeleteThat's a good idea about transferring the press type lettering onto clear decal material. The first few times I used Letraset on a rocket I could almost indent the body tube when transferring the type.
I ended up doing a "half transfer" where I would leave the backing sheet behind the letter sheet. The chosen letters would be rubbed, they would then look gray, still stuck on the master, upper sheet. The backing was removed and the half transferred letter still stuck to the master sheet. The sheet was then set over the model and it took very little pressure to drop the letter into place.
I do agree with your observation selection available in Letraset seems much smaller than in the past. I do remember that most stationery and art supply stores carrying a wide selection -- nowadays you'd be lucky if you can find them. Speaking of changing times.. ever pop into an Office Depot, Staples or similar store and inquire about carbon paper? The last time I'd asked, I got a blank stare in response.
ReplyDeleteHi Naoto,
DeleteAt one time I had a Letreset catalog. There were a few hundred fonts available in many sizes. I haven't had to buy carbon paper in many years. I could imagine the blank stares from young employees.
Another once-common product that is harder to come by nowadays are screentone sheets (various brands like Letratone, Zip-A-Tone, Chart-Pak, etc.).
DeleteOne of the places where carbon paper and tracing paper have come in handy is when I need to copy patterns for parts directly from the plan sheet w/o having to cut anything. Carbon paper comes in handy when I want to have a mirror copy. Granted, if you've got a flatbed scanner and illustration software on the computer you can do all of this digitally and not have to resort to such "analog" techniques.
I had used label sheets (the removable type with the light tack adhesive) to create masking for painting. I simply drew on the markings on the sheet, then cut out the parts I wanted to paint (essentially I was using it as frisket film -- of which at the time I'd not yet heard of it). I also discovered that if I put on a very light coat of the base color before the actual color, I could minimize the bleeding under the edges. Of course with the current availability of DIY decal supplies, much of the need for such technique has been reduced somewhat.