What's My Next Build?

IT'S A TIE!

Both the LTV Scout and Enterprise got nine votes each.

I realize many builders don't stop by the blog every day. I gave it a few days for the votes to come in. Many probably wouldn't bother to vote or comment.

So I'll cut up some numbers and put it into a hat for a random drawing.

  Results upcoming . . .

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 25, New Turbine Exhaust Tube

After lots of handling during the build, the exhaust tube broke loose.

There wasn't much glue holding it against the motor mount tube.

(The picture on the left shows the first black tube.) 

I cut a new one and filled the seam with CWF. It was sprayed black off the model.

For a better, wider glue bond against the inside motor tube - 

The side of the lug was pushed in to flatten and widen the gluing surface. It took a little coaxing with a fingernail to put a curve in the flattened side.

The lug was sprayed black off the model. The inside end was masked off for better glue adhesion.

Wood glue was used to set the lug against the tube on the inside.

I wadded up a paper towel to put pressure on the lug and position it at the right angle.

After the inside glue dried,

CA glue was applied with a toothpick leaving a hard, clear fillet.

TIP: Cut off just the very tip off the toothpick and round the new end with sandpaper. The wider, round tip will hold more glue for the transfer onto the model.

This second try had a cleaner color separation with it being painted black before gluing into the rear centering ring hole.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 24, Decals!

I drew up the decals from the scans at Jim Zs. These were sized for the slightly larger diameter Centuri ST-7 tubes.

Shown on the left - 

The second lined wrap decal was cut a bit shorter to fit the BT-20 tube.

When cutting a decal like this,

Round out the clear areas instead of cutting into the corners.

A sharp inside corner could end up tearing.


 

This louvered hatch decal goes over the nose cone.

The 3D print has a raised line.

Smooth and work the decal into the ridge with a wet Q-tip.

Here's the finished nose cone.

Those small camera focus targets are always difficult to set on straight.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 23, Fin Face Decals

I had to trim the solar panel decals after trying a dry fit on the square fins.

Cuts were made on all four sides almost to the vertical and horizontal lines.

These transferred easily. Wet the entire flat surface before applying the large decal. Centering took a moment or two.

The final look was better than I hoped.

While this doesn't have the raised texture of the original kit stickers, it still gives the right impression.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 22, Chrome Fin Faces

With the backing still on - 

Fold the chrome trim piece in half so the crease will roll over the leading edge.

Peel off the backing and set the fold over the rounded forward edge.

Don't adhere the entire piece, but pull down on the leading edge pinching between your thumb and index finger.

After the leading is good, then smooth the rest of the skin from top to bottom.

Over time, the chrome cover might lift.

Here's what happened to the Phoenix Bird sticker. I don't think I got a good tight fit over the leading edge.

The piece was cut to the width of the fin but cut a little long to overhand the trailing edge. 

After the skin is burnished, the overhang is carefully trimmed off with a new single edge razor blade.

Here's one of the good fins.

There are some dust specks that make raised areas on the others.

I hope the solar panel decals will camouflage the spots.

TIP: Chrome Monokote Trim material can be hard to find. I got my self-adhesive chrome sheeting from Balsa Machining Service.

New Estes Shock Cord Anchors

Estes has just released new Shock Cord Anchors 

for BT-50, 55 and 60 tubes: CLICK HERE

These are certainly an upgrade from the paper tri-fold anchors.

Still, no improvement for BT-5 and 20 sized tubes.

These are adhered with 3M peel and stick tape.

Centuri developed a self-adhesive shock cord mount in 1971.

Initially claimed to be "permanent", they did loosen and pull loose over time. Later kits would include an addendum to the instructions reminding you to burnish the fastener between launches.

The 3M tape in the new Estes mounts should hold better!

In Limbo - Pick My Next Build!

It's been raining! I can't spray the Skylab -

I like to spray when the humidity is the lowest, typically around 2:30 p.m.

Spraying after a rain when humidity is high can lead to "blushing" or a dull finish.

Even if the storm was earlier in the day, the humidity will turn a gloss spray to a flat finish.

I can't work on the Skylab right now. When the skies are clear, I'll get the last gloss white sprayed.

I recently got two older kits for a great price. The poly bags were torn and open but all the parts are there. Perfect for a blog build.

Help me pick the next build after the Skylab!

The Estes LTV Scout?  Or -

The Estes Starship Enterprise?

Let me know what you'd like to see next!

Leave your pick in the comments below . . . 

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 21, Black Trim Paint

Suggested in the instructions: 

The long launch lugs on the outside edge of the solar panel fins are painted red or black. I chose black.

The mask lines don't have to be sharp, the paint edge will be defined by the chrome overlap. 

The exhaust tube (shorter launch lug) is also painted black.

This would be a tough mask so I outlined the tube with a ultra fine point Sharpie.

The rest of the lug was "painted" with a wider point Sharpie. You can't always get a good coverage with the Sharpie. Don't try to cover larger areas with a felt tip pen.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 20, White Trim

I couldn't find 1/16" wide pinstriping tape at the auto supply stores.

I could find it online, but I didn't want to wait.

Michael's craft store had peel and stick vinyl in small rolls.

On the left is a closeup of the pod nose cone. You could smooth it out with sandpaper, but I like the extra detail.

The main nose cone picture shows the tie down lug. Whoever did the 3D work made it very strong.

The pods are centered when glued onto the smaller support fins. 

The glue line was scraped and the centers marked for easier placement.

The instructions show 1/16" wide tape strips added for extra details.

On the long upper body tube I'll wait until after the decals are applied. 

It would be difficult to apply decals over the raised tape lines.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 19, Paint & White Trim?

The larger main nozzle and pod nozzles are painted silver off the model.

Mask off the coupler areas on all three.

The remainder of the model is painted gloss white.

I haven't glued on the engine pods yet. I figured it would be easier to sand between coats without the pods in the way.

Red 1/16" wide pinstriping tape was supplied in the kit. 

The instructions have you lay down the red tape for texture and detail lines. Then - paint the model white. 

I'd be concerned the red tape would show as pink through under the white paint. I'll paint the model white then add the white pinstriping lines. 

The remainder of the red tape lines is set down after the white paint is dry.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 18, Docking Collars

The docking collars are set into holes drilled into the body tube.

Start with smaller diameter drills and work up to the 1/4" diameter needed.

I simply finger twisted the drill working it into the body tube.

Don't worry about the rough edges.

Push them to the center - 

Round out the holes and push the rough fibers into the hole with a sharpened dowel.

Set the dowel in the hole and twist.

Don't enlarge the hole beyond that 1/4" diameter. Check the fit of the docking collar and try for a friction fit.

The docking collars were glued in the holes using Fabri-Tac.

This is turning out to be a very detailed model.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 17, The Shroud Tunnel

The shroud seam was scraped and sanded to lower the tab area.

TIP: Plan ahead where the shroud seam will be. You should consider where and how the tall UNITED STATES decal will be placed. I tried to follow the instruction illustrations but with where my shroud seam is, the decals won't end up like the face card picture.

Line up the shroud seam, in line with one of the large, square fins.

The instructions are vague regarding the shroud seam. The instructions do say to cover the shroud seam with a wood tunnel. 

It's a little tricky getting the angled tunnel joint to match up.

 

I'd recommend using a sanding block to keep the tunnel end tapers consistent.

After a few tries, the tunnel joint is about as close as I could get.

I'll still add some CWF filler to the joint crack.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 16, Oops! Gluing On The Wrap

The 3D wrap was a bit large and slid loose on the 2" tube. I decided to cut out a sliver for a tighter fit.

3D plastic is brittle! When I tried to score the cut line the piece cracked.

The second break was down the cut score line. I set that piece aside. I'm not really concerned as the launch lug will cover any seam.

The wrap was glued on using Fabri-Tac glue. Fabri-Tac contains acetone and works well with plastic to Kraft tube joints.

The Fabri-Tac gives you a little working time, it's fairly slow to dry.

Tape was used to hold the wrap tight as the glue set up.

That broken off piece was glued and slid into place.

There was a gap towards the top. No big deal, the launch lug will cover it.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 15, Skinning The Fins & Fin Gluing

As it turns out, the fins are too thin for a friction fit in the support slots.  I'll need to laminate some cardstock to increase the thickness.

The mat board fins had the leading edge rounded for a smoother "fold-over" of the cardstock skin.

The 110 lb. cardstock was cut oversize.

The outside layer will be "butterflied" with the fold rolling over the leading edge. Score and pre-fold the leading edge.

I used a glue stick to adhere the skin.

Set the folded edge first over the rounded leading edge.

After skinning the two fins - 

The 3" long launch lug tubes are glued to the outside edge of the fins.

The two square solar panel fins and smaller pod supports are glued on.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 14, Fitting The Shroud, Gluing The Fin Supports

The first dry fit of the shroud fit showed a gap.

Turns out the glue fillet on the tube and centering ring joint wouldn't allow the shroud to seat all the way down. The fillet was sanded and the centering ring hole slightly enlarged.

I got a better fit but one side was slightly high. The high side was sanded using a block.

Here's a better fit of the shroud on the lower body tube.

Line up the shroud seam with one of the large, square fins.

The solar panel (fin support) gluing area had the filler/primer scraped off for a better glue bond.

After placing on the tube, they were held down with rubber bands as the glue dried.

Centuri Skylab Build, #KB-4, Part 13, Lower Tube Centering Rings

The instructions say to "snap" the rings into the tubes by pressing the tube onto the rings on a tabletop.

I rolled a dowel over over the joint to be sure the ring face was flush with the end of the tube.

Internal fillets were applied using a Q-tip taped onto a dowel.

Use small drops of glue on the Q-tip. The Q-tip is then used to smooth the glue and pick up the excess.

A light sanding follows to remove any dried glue and even up any roughness.