This Kevlar is plenty strong, but braided Kevlar can unravel.
TIP: To stop the unraveling, just wipe some white or wood glue on the last 1/2" on each end.
DO NOT USE SUPER GLUES on any string! It will run down the fibers, stiffen the cord making it brittle.
Pull up on the end of the line and press the Kevlar loop right into the glue fillet.
Be sure to press down and "seat" the knot close - If the knot is too high it could bulge out the BT-50 body tube when the mount is glued in.
I did want more open space below the lower centering ring for easier movement of the engine hook. The way the rear centering ring is glued as shown here, inserting the engine could be difficult.
TIP: On a 20/50 engine mount, glue the lower ring higher up or 1" from the bottom.
There isn't much room for engine hook flex between the BT-20 and BT-50 tube as it is. Setting the lower centering ring higher up allows for easier movement of the engine hook.
The other compliant I would have with figure 2 is that the engine hook has been turned around and flipped in the second half.
ReplyDeleteHi AAube,
DeleteI agree! When I draw up instructions for my own kits, the entire build faces one way with the upper side to the right.
Speaking of not having much allowance for the engine hook to flex... I remember the first time I'd run into that in the Quest X-30. The motor mount tube would be inserted into the main body tube, trapping the engine clip between, with not much of the motor clip extending past the end of the main body tube to allow it to be flexed sufficiently to insert and remove the engine. Worse yet was that the motor hook would stay bent after doing this (meaning it won't serve its original purpose of keeping the motor in place during ejection).
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