Mr. Alway added some details into the nose cone to simulate a lander.
Three center disks from a die-cut 5/20 centering ring is glued to the nose cone.
The three disks are spaced 120 degrees around the base of the nose cone.
I didn't have any disk centers.
I traced around a BT-5 tube on some 110 lb. card stock.
This isn't as thick as a centering ring center disk. I was concerned about how easily the disk would curve and adhere around the nose cone side.
The disks were simply cut out using scissors.
There are a few rough edges you can see on the left.
On the right is the same disk after knocking down the high spots with 400 grit.
The disks were taped to a piece of cardboard and got a coat of white paint.
On top you can still see a little raised ridge.
A few light passes with 400 grit smoothed that out.
A paper strip was wrapped around the nose cone, 1/4" from the bottom. The over lap was marked.
The circumference was 4.05".
Divided by three, there will be 1.35" between the disks.
3M adhesive was sprayed on the back of the disks.
Each disk was centered over pencil marks.
The edges were rolled down onto the curved nose cone sides.
Chris, I hate to keep asking you questions about old builds, but for the longest time I was just a basic 3FNC guy. Then I messed up and built the Zooch Jupiter C, and man the Ant bit me hard! Now I'm hooked on the Zooch line. I was wondering how you cut out those inner circles like on the Saturn V LES skirt so perfectly? And I'm having quite the time getting the tabs to line up on the antenna nose fairing on the Freedom 7. I tried shaping it on the heel of my hand like you suggested but the tabs just won't line up. A few months ago I lost half of two of my fingers on my dominant hand so wielding scissors is a bit of a challenge at the moment. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
ReplyDeleteHi Daniel,
DeleteYeah, the Zooch kits are that good!
One thing I always do with Zooch kits (or any kit with shrouds and printed wraps) is scan and print extras on 110 lb. stock. After forming, I pick the best one out of three or four and use that on the model.
When cutting with scissors, keep the scissors straight and move the paper piece you are cutting. For some people that sounds like the reverse of what you should do, but it can give better control.
Use good, sharp and "tight" scissors. Tighten the screw if needed.
You can sharpen scissors by cutting through 400 grit sandpaper.
Go slow, tuck the piece you are cutting deep into the "V" of the scissors. The smaller the arc diameter of the circle, the farther into the scissor "V" the piece goes.
Forming the shroud in the heel of your hand doesn't guarantee the pieces line up. It gives a smooth surface and makes it easier to line up the glue tab. Other methods to shape the shroud can leave small bends.
Use very little glue on the glue tab. Apply glue then wipe it off leaving just a shiny skin, then attach the tab.
Good luck with this. Like anything else, it takes practice.