On the left -
I couldn't figure out why the tip of the fin sticker wasn't laying down. The back of the sticker sheet was scored and some backing was still left on the sticker.
Below the nose cone is a body wrap.
TIP: Start the joint end directly over the launch lug, glued on below. When setting your rocket on the launcher, position the lug and sticker joint seam facing to the rear. You won't see either when you take a picture before launch.
Notice I leave the backing on and peel it off as the sticker is rolled around the body tube. This is another way to keep the back of the sticker clean for a smoother finished surface.
I did my best to match the sticker color of the darker blue to the spray painted blue on the third fin and nose cone.
TIP: I'll often take the kit face card into hardware store to match up the color cap on the spray paint can.
Royal Blue was a close match to the dark blue on the stickers.
Here's the finished model.
A clean color combination with just the right amount of interest.
Pretty! I love the Astra. It was my first build when I came back to rocketry in 2008. And alas I lost it into the neighborhood in 2012.
ReplyDeleteHi Bob,
DeleteYep - I'm usually not a fan of stickers, but they sure look good on this one.
Hi Chris,
ReplyDeleteIs the application of clear coat OK for rockets with stickers as opposed to waterslide decals?
Hi Jimmy,
DeleteIt depends. If the stickers are printed on plastic, you probably wouldn't need a clear coat. If the stickers are printed on paper, a clear coat is a good idea. Paper stickers could absorb water if landing on dewey grass.
I don't usually clear coat models. On hot days, acrylic clear coats get sticky and fingerprints are left in the model when handling.
I will set down a light clear coat if a decal edge is right on the edge of a fin or end of the body tube. Here I roll on liquid Future applied lightly with a Q-tip.