3. Light white undercoats always follow.
Hold your dry, painted parts up to a bright light and look for any rough spots.
Dry sand the rough areas. You don't have to sand these all the way to the surface, just rough up the area. Don't wet sand yet. If any water can get down to the tube surface it'll swell up! The same goes for the wood surfaces. Dry sand for now. Wet sand (if needed) after the final color coats are applied.
4. I still follow the spraying advice from the old catalogs.
Use light coats first then finish with a final heavier "wet" coat. This has served me well over the years.
The heavier final coat is tricky though. Slow down the spraying passes over the model. Lay it on heavier, but not heavy enough to cause drips.
The models pictured here were painted using these steps. Future clear coats were not applied or needed.
My finishing techniques are just that, it's what works for me.
Too many factors can affect a good finish.
For instance, the quality of the balsa and seam width on the tubes. Spray paint formulations and compatibility of paints from the same manufacturer. Pile on top of that humidity, dust and insects that'll land on wet paint!
These two posts are simply food for thought. I would never tell anyone their finishing techniques are wrong. If something works for you, keep doing it!
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