The darker elevon decals worked well set on the trailing edge of the wings.
The USFF decals were set at an angle like the original Estes kit.
The rear of the cockpit decal is set about 1/8" from the nose cone shoulder lip. Use a damp Q-tip to conform it to the curvature of the nose cone. Let it thoroughly dry before gluing on the clear cockpit.
The black circles are centered on the ends of the intakes.
Against the gray paint the home print black decals show as a dark black.
Squeeze a small "pool" drop of CA on some scrap cardboard. Dip a toothpick tip in the glue, remove the toothpick and let the glue dry.
The dried CA will prevent the next application of glue from soaking into the toothpick.
Squeeze out another small drop of glue. Hold the canopy down on the nose cone centered over the decal. Set the toothpick into the CA picking up a drop of glue. Run the bead of glue completely around the edge of the canopy.
Chris, do you ever use decal setting solutions, like Micro Set and Micro Sol, on areas with an uneven or odd contour? I've considered trying them lately, but it makes me a little nervous.
ReplyDeleteHi Daniel,
DeleteI rarely use decal setting solutions, I've had the same small bottle for years. I've used Micro-Sol to get the vertical UNITED STATES decal to settle into the corrugation on the Little Joe II. But, that was only on one small area. 95% of the decal was coaxed down using a wet Q-tip.
If your surfaces are smooth and clean, decals should stick. I only roll a small amount of Future (rolled over with a Q-tip)over the edges that could lift.
Even the cockpit decal layed down fine will some rolling over with the damp Q-tip.
The Micro-Sol is often used by scale modelers who want the clear coat edges to disappear. I'm not building model trains so I don't worry about that.