I drew the roll pattern out "flat" to show how the vertical bars would sit. This seemed to be easier to follow than the 1/4 turn pictures in the instructions.
The black vertical bars go from four on the bottom, two in the middle and one at the top. The four bars at the bottom have to be spaced (somehow) around three fins!
This drawing is a reference, it is not meant to be printed as a decal. You can enlarge this and print it out.
These fins were shaped with a diamond taper so I had to cut out a long triangle shape to go over the fin. At the upper tip of the triangle is a slit cut extending about 1/8".
TIP: The slim triangle cut was made a bit smaller than the thickness of the root edge. I was hoping the decal would roll over onto the fin covering up any white at the fillet mask area.
NOTE: These decals are thin so they should conform but can easily tear now that it is cut.
Do you think it'd be easier to mask and paint the lower roll pattern, rather than cutting the water-slide decals and potentially tearing them?
ReplyDeleteHi Beantown,
DeleteIt might be easier! I was building this one for Estes and wanted to use the decals supplied with the kit.
If you use the decals, that one vertical band has to be cut to go over the fin and fit the shape you have sanded.
That's cool. I'm building mine more as a sport flyer than a magazine model. My goal is "looks perfect from a couple feet away" :D. I plan to burn quite a few motors through this rocket. How do you think it'd fly on C-11's? I haven't tried simming in OR yet.
DeleteSo far I've got the motor mount built and installed and the fins glued with the "first pass" fillets. I went for airfoiled leading edges rather than go for the bevels. I also left the trailing edges square for durability. I'll be adding some epoxy fillets to both build them up a bit more and additional strength.
This is really a great looking model, I'll most likely build another one over the winter and go for the more scale appearance for the rocket shelf.