(After I finish these up I doubt I'll want to look at another Saturn V for a while.)
With all the various Saturn V builds shown on this blog, new Saturn V build can be found in the SEARCH window as "E Saturn V". This new build should come up first.
This #2157 version featured the Centuri Vacu-form wraps. The original Estes Saturn V K-36 kit from 1969 had embossed card stock wraps. To get an idea of what that kit looked like up close:
CLICK HERE then CLICK HERE
I have a previous #2157 Estes Saturn V kit unbuilt in the box. I thought it would be interesting to compare the last kit (#2157) and newest version (#1969) of the Estes Saturn V.
Looking from the bottom up:On the left is the older Centuri fairing. It has been said before that the corrugations in the Centuri kit were too wide. On the older Estes kit many felt the embossed card stock ridges were too subtle. The new kit looks to be closer to the truth.
On the right is the new fairing. The corrugations are thinner. The thing I know I will miss is the raised horizontal ridge. The ridge is the mask line and gives you something to set the tape edge on. On the new fairing you have to mask between every corrugation.
The top is the old wrap.
This older wrap has the launcher release "hold-downs". (I don't know if that is the proper term for them.)
On the new low wrap the tunnel ends aren't as pointed.
Centuri used what scale data was available at the time to produce their kit. Notice there are eight ullage motors on this wrap.
By the time of the Apollo 11 Saturn, the ullage motors were reduced to four.
There are plenty more details on the new wrap, more like the larger Apogee or Sirius Saturn Vs.
The older version is at the top, the new one on the bottom. There isn't a color separation masking ridge now.
The older wrap seemed to suggest a cut line. The new one floats on the sheet of plastic.
More comparisons tomorrow
I'm going to wish I had those ridges too! I'm fine with masking a simple color separation on a fin or body tube for a simple sport model. Masking those corrugations is going to give me a real fit.
ReplyDeleteI'm going to follow Mike Nowak's advice he gave me at NARCON this year - Tamiya tape! I know it's more expensive, and for most purposes, I wouldn't bother. But the flexibility of it makes it seem like a better choice for this rocket.
I'm also planning on using an airbrush - once I have the time to actually practice with it first. I understand you can kind of control bleed through just by the angle of the brush, more easily than you could do with rattle cans.
I'm really looking forward to this build series, Chris.
I've talked to Chris about Tamiya tape before, as I use it when needed, too. Being frugal, good luck on convincing him. Maybe this will be the model that convinces him the cost is worth it.
DeleteI'm not going to question the master, but I do recall a mention on the previous Saturn V series that quality tape is a must. We'll see what he turns to this time around. I look forward to the masking section of this build with great anticipation.
DeleteHi Daniel,
DeleteQuestion the who? Hardly a master.
I'm going to try the technique described in the Apogee Saturn V instructions. Everything is outlined with a extra fine point Sharpie. After you've got a fairly good width edge, mask and fill in the rest of the black areas. It'll be coming up in the build.
I’m building a #2157, and glad, too, to have those masking ridges. Tamiya tape is amazing. Never had a leak. I used the 6mm to mask my Der Saturn Max, a redo of an old #2001 Saturn V. Not a single issue, although the cardstock wraps are not as “textured” as the #2157. I’ve found 2mm and 3mm Tamiya tape on Amazon, and bought the 3mm, but have not tried it. Maybe when aI have to do a tight curve. I’ve only seen 6mm and 10mm in local hobby stores and Hobby Lobby... hey, at 40% off at HL, it’s cheap! (And for me a roll lasts a long time.)
ReplyDeleteChris — would you mind telling me the length of the SM tube between the SLA/LEM Shroud, and capsule? I’ve got to cut down the tube in the #2157 kit. My Estes 1/100 Saturn 1B has 44mm (1.735”) of tube from paper shroud to capsule. It should be the same on the V, but you never know.
Hi Lee,
DeleteOn YORF, Jeffy Jeep measured using a caliper and got 1.836" Mine looks a bit shorter, with my architectural ruler I guessed 1.82".
One of our local hobby stores has all the sizes of Tamiya tape. 2mm and 3mm give the best curves, but the 6mm covers a little more, if the curves are not too tight. And bleed through will be a thing of the past if you burnish I'd down properly.
DeleteChris, thanks for posting info on length of the SM tube. I saw your reply on YORF after asking here. I’m surprised at the range of measurements!
ReplyDelete