This is the type of glue you should be using - Bottled liquid plastic cement with the brush attached to the cap.
Tube type plastic cement is iffy and not what it was fifty years ago.
This stuff is very thin and evaporates quickly.
Look at the nozzle halves. One side has small alignment pins, the other side has small holes.
TIP: You can lightly sand the side with the holes, don't sand the side with the alignment pins! That little bit of sanding will give you a better, tighter fit.
I didn't brush the liquid cement onto the side edges. The halves were pressed together and lined up.
Liquid cement was applied to the seam on the inside using the brush.
More cement was brushed on the top, around the pins.
Here's one of the finished nozzles.
The new nozzle fit is very good. You really have to look for the seam joints on the outside.
Assembly time so far:
4:50 minutes previous
0:15 minutes this post
5:05 total
That's exactly how Plastic Weld and ther like should be used. Since it's technically not an adhesive but a solvent that melts the plastic,if you applied it to the outside, you would get permanent marks in the plastic. It's not always easy to get to the inside, where you want to, but the bond will never break, since the plastic is fused together.
ReplyDeleteHi Metal,
DeleteComing up I will be using the Plastic Weld on the outside of the fin joints. After drying it the fin outside edges can be sanded smooth.
I use the Plastic Weld brush on the inside seam where it is easy to get to, but for the tighter spaces further up inside the assembly, I use micro-sponge sticks (like the Testors 287993). The actual Testors applicators are way too expensive, but I found packs of similar generic ones online that come in bags of 100 for very cheap prices. Makes it palatable to use them for one-time disposable use. They are great for getting model glue where you need it.
ReplyDeleteHi Eric,
DeleteI'm even cheaper than that - I use A LOT of Q-tips.