Here's the slightly larger shroud from the #2157 kit.
TIP: Use scissors on the curves, a knife and straightedge on the straight cuts.
On my thumb is a piece of sandpaper. I'm sanding the edges, taking down any bumps.
On rougher card stock you can use a glue stick to attach the glue tab. On very shiny stock you might want to use wood or white glue. Don't use too much, White or yellow glue can over saturate the card stock.
TIP: Try using a wipe of glue stick on the inside side of the shroud, not on the glue tab. Set the glue tab into the glue on the shroud. This keeps the glue tab dry and allows more time when re-positioning the other end.
EDIT: Some glue sticks may not work as well on glossy card stock. The card stock in these examples is the 110 lb. card stock from WalMart. It is not a glossy finish.
Pre-curl the shroud in the heel of your hand.
Notice the right edge of the shroud is set down the side line of the hand.
Press a clean dowel or pen barrel in an arc (or pie shape) over the shroud. You can also press and put a small curve in the glue tab. Practice makes close!
Another glue stick wipe is set on the opposite shroud edge, not on the glue tab.
Press the shroud edges together then set the seam on a clean dowel.
Press and roll a pen barrel over the seam, concentrating on the seam joint.
I tried a test fit and it was a bit tight.
To enlarge the upper hole, slightly sand down the edge. Support the shroud so it won't get bent. It shouldn't take much sanding.
Assembly time so far:
4:10 minutes previous
0:30 hour this post
4:40 total
What are your thoughts of using rubber cement rather than white glue or yellow carpenter's wood glue on shrouds? On the upside the joint doesn't stiffen and remains flexible and you don't get that puckering effect you could get when the water in white glue soaks into the paper. The joint also has a very slight amount of "give" which could be helpful in fitting of assemblies. Downside of course is that when you use rubber cement in the usual manner (procedure similar to that of contact cement -- apply thin coat to mating surfaces, let dry for about 15 minutes, then press parts together), it grabs nearly instantly (so you'll need to be *very* careful).
ReplyDeleteI ended up using rubber cement on the aeroshroud on some of the Quest kits (included tape wasn't working well for me).
On the aside, for papercraft models, Aleene's Tacky Glue (often found at craft stores) works well - it seems to a bit less water than most white glues - thus much less apt to cause the "puckering" you're apt to get when the water from the glue soaks into the paper. One trick that works with regular white glue -- make a puddle of the glue on a scrap sheet of paper -- let stand for a bit to allow some of the water in the glue to evaporate or soak into the scrap sheet (basically catch it just before it begins to "skin over").
Hi Naoto,
DeleteThe reason I don't use rubber cement is that quick grab of the two sides. I've said before - if you are going to use white or wood glue for shroud gluing, use very little.
A glue stick isn't as messy as white or wood glue and allows for repositioning.
Chris, do you have a particular brand of glue stick you like? I picked up a well-rated pack of Elmer's glue sticks from Amazon. I forget what formula they were off the top of my head. But they never really seem to form a decent bond. Even plain card stock comes apart very easily well after the dry time.
DeleteHi Daniel,
DeleteGlue sticks probably won't work as well on glossy stock. I'll add that to the post.
I use whatever is available and will buy a brand name. I bought some glue sticks when I was in Cancun for a month. Terrible stuff, I had to throw them away.