The rear centering ring should end up 3 3/8" from the bottom of the main air frame tube.
GOTCHA: Try a dry fit and you'll notice the rings seem small! The engine mount can slide right through the BT-101 tube, not a good friction fit.
You only need to increase the outside diameter of the centering rings a slight bit.
TIP: Apply a thin bead of glue around the centering rings and allow to dry. After the glue is dry, try a dry fit again. Sand the glue bead if it seems too tight.
I dry fit the mount being sure of the 3 3/8" recess at the rear. Notice the glue fillets at the right. I'll do four small fillets then continue filling in the open areas after those dry.
TIP: Q-Tips are your best friend! How else can you apply a fillet from the top? Tape a Q-tip to a bamboo skewer. Apply a drop of glue to the Q-tip, apply the glue to the joint and smooth it out using the cotton end of the Q-tip. You may have to use a few Q-tips to get the glue fillet all the way around the joint.
Assembly time so far:
1:40 minutes previous
0:30 minutes this post
2:10 total
Chris, one thing that is not indicated or clear in the instructions is whether or not the location of the engine hook in relation to the centering line matters. Usually this can cause an issue with other models that have the look outside the body tube being in line with the launch lugs. This wouldn't be an issue in this case, but just want to make sure there isn't a "gotcha" down the road.
ReplyDeleteHi Manny,
DeleteOn a model this large a diameter I don't think that matters. On smaller diameter models I'll center the engine hook between two fins. The launch lug will also go on the same side as the engine hook.
When the rocket is prepped, the igniter leads face away from the engine hook for less chance of a short. On the launcher, I'll set the rocket down the rod with the lug (and launch rod) to the rear for better pictures.