I first saw this tip on TRF, I believe Doug Sams posted about it.
TIP: Cut off the finger tab as shown. You might find it easier to use a Dremel and a cut off wheel.
Flip the hook over -
This rounded end goes to the top of the engine mount, the more square bent end goes to the bottom.
This makes for a cleaner looking model and the rear bend of the hook now has a sharper, square bend to lock over the rear of the engine.
While not mentioned in the instructions,
The centering rings should be notched where they go over the engine hook.
Slide them in place over the hook and mark.
Use a sharp knife or jeweler's diamond file to make the shallow notch.
The thin engine block is glued into the front end of the tube.
It sticks out a slight bit, raised beyond the tube by the thickness of the engine hook.
This can be sanded flush after the glue dries.
Of course, there IS that awesome extended engine hook that somebody sells, I forget who at the moment, that solves this problem too.
ReplyDeleteHere's a comment left by Mustang that got deleted by accident. I copied and pasted it back.
ReplyDeleteI have started notching the engine block where it goes over the engine hook so that the engine touches the block all the way around, and not just on the hook. I have no evidence that this is better, but it seems to me that having more to push against would be better. During engine firing, the way the kit instructions have you do it, the thrust is pushing against the hook, and the force is transferred to the engine tube and engine block in the one spot directly above the hook. But if the engine block is notched and the engine touches the engine block all the way around, the thrust is more evenly distributed.
Comment from Mushtang
Notching the centering ring for the engine hook was an idea I first saw used by Bradycros on TRF. It makes great sense to do this. It also lets the engine block sit evenly inside the tube. Sometimes a loose engine block can be glued in at an angle over the top bend of the engine hook.
ReplyDelete