Saturday, November 3, 2018

Semroc Saturn 1B, Build, OOP #KS-1, Part 3, Dowel Prep

Building an escape tower isn't easy, sort of a rocketry Rite Of Passage.
Like every new build challenge, don't expect perfection in your first try. I've heard a few say: "I can't build that, I have fat fingers." Give it a shot, you might surprise yourself.
Get a new sharp blade, change out the old sandpaper. Take deep, relaxed breaths and don't try to build an escape tower in one sitting.
I respect and always acknowledge a builder that took the chance and assembled something difficult.

This following step is where some give up making the tower. Four 1/12" x 6" diameter dowels are supplied. the builder should shape the dowels to a thinner diameter. You would think thinner dowels could be supplied. I've seen towers assembled where the dowels diameters weren't reduced. It looked thick and clumsy.

It's hard to get these perfectly round while reducing the diameter.
TIP: Look to the lower left and you'll see a pencil line. Drawing this reference line lets you know when you've made one revolution around the dowel.
I sanded back and forth using 220 grit on a sanding block as the dowel was slowly rotated. Keep an eye out for the pencil line as the dowel makes a full turn.
The upper half of the dowel was sanded round, the dowel is flipped over and the other half sanded.




Two dowels are reduced to .056" diameter. The other two are reduced to .041". Use the sizing templates to check the diameters.


Here's what you should end up with, two dowels at .041" diameter and two dowels tapered to .056" diameter. They don't really have to be perfect, just real close.
Each dowel reduction should take a little over 10 minutes.



Looking ahead, here's the finished tower.

TIP: To the right is a round tapered toothpick. Right out of the package, the diameter is almost the same as the larger reduced diameter dowel. The toothpick is long enough that you could cut off the top and bottom tips and still have a long enough dowel for the tower sides.

Build time this post: 55 minutes
Total build time so far: 1 hour, 15 minutes

5 comments:

  1. A jewelers draw plate would also come in handy for the dowels that do not require tapering. Model shipbuilders use them for tree nails (sometimes referred to as trunnels).

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    1. Hi A Aube,
      I've tried a cheap draw plate in the past. I didn't get good results. I know there are more expensive ones available from Micro Mark, but I didn't want to pay $30 plus shipping for a tool I probably wouldn't use again.
      On the blog I try to build models using the standard tools most people would have on hand or easily acquire. The average builders wouldn't have a small diameter draw plate.

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  2. +1 on the draw plate. I've seen them used to shave down reeds to a consistent diameter for basket weaving. Another alternative is styrene rods of the correct diameter. The Fliskits Saturn 1B I just received has two thin styrene rods for the assembly of the LES tower. I guess you could also use music wire, but it would be harder to sand(grind) than styrene.

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  3. The finished tower looks great!
    Do you plan to build with the 24mm engine mount or the quad 18mm mount? Or do something to be interchangeable??

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    Replies
    1. Hi Unknown,
      I'm building it with the quad, 18mm mount like I did in the late 1970s.

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