Here's how we used to do it - Gluing the engine block in the old Wac Corporal kit.
I like how the instructions tell you: "Put a large dab of glue near the end of your little finger (or use a brush.)" It better be your little finger, I doubt other fingers would fit into a minimum diameter BT-20 body tube.
The problem is - glue is smeared all through the tube leading up to the desired final engine block position. After a launch, a hot engine could melt that leftover glue, gluing the engine in place!
The old Wac Corporal kit was a single, minimum diameter tube model. You would have to carefully (and quickly) position and glue the engine block in from the back end.
Take a look at the new Sasha instructions at the right.
You are still directed to glue in the engine block from the rear smearing glue around the interior. How you gonna' get that glue bottle way up thar?
TIP: This is a shorter engine tube, why not glue it in from the top?
1. Mark the yellow spacer tube at 1/4" (or whatever the kit calls for)
2. Slide the yellow spacer tube in from the rear and tape to hold it in place at the 1/4" pencil line.
3. Slide the engine block (dry no glue yet) in from the top end of the tube and on to the top of the spacer tube.
4. Apply the glue fillet from the top - DONE!
Using this method there is no extra glue inside the tube and next to a hot engine. The tube interior is clean. Between that upper engine block glue fillet and the engine hook, the engine will stay in place during boost and ejection.
The paint brush is how I do it
ReplyDeleteI have a skewer taped to once of the generic Testors paint brushes. This gives me a long reach precision glue applicator, onto which I mark measurements with a Sharpie that allow me to put the glue exactly where it's needed, even way up into a body tube.
Hi Metal,
DeleteI usually use a dowel to get the glue up there. In this post I was referring to short motor mount tubes, like you'd use with centering rings in a larger body model.