Estes Gyroc Build Part 11, Elastic

After this step I remembered having the same problems with my first Gyroc build in the 1970s. There was a lot of tweaking to get the elastic to fully pull the flap against the rudder fin stops.

Enlarge the picture an you'll see where the instructions recommend setting the elastic holes. I marked the hole positions with a pencil dot.

The holes were made with a needle before threading the elastic.
TIP: Find the thinnest needle that you can still thread the elastic through. You want the hole to stay small!
The lower hole (near the hinge) didn't give enough pull on the flap. I had to go higher on the flap.
Now I'm stuck with an extra hole on the flap - Oh well!

Behind the flap is a double overhand knot. Over the rudder fin the elastic is looped and sewn through a second time.

The flap had to be trimmed at the root edge (Below the "A" in EXPERIMENTAL) so it couldn't bind when pulled open by the elastic.
If I were to build another Gyroc, I'd make the root edge of the flap a hair shorter so it couldn't rub against the body tube.
EDIT: Check the previous post for corrections I should have made!

When the elastic is tight enough the flap should lightly "click" against the rudder when released.

When all is right, put a small drop of white glue at the thread holes.
TIP: Never use CA (Super Glue) on shroud lines, shock cords or the elastic used here. The CA glue will run up the lines and harden it.

The white glue helps hold the elastic knot tight. Use just enough to hold it but also allow replacement of the elastic if needed later on.