Estes Paveway III Build, Part 2 Engine Mount

Looking ahead, the engine will extend 1/2" out the rear of the model.
The engine hook finger tab will extend out past that! I'm cutting off the finger tab.
The metal bend was "scored" with a wire cutter. The end of the tab was bent back and forth with pliers along the scored line until it broke off.
The inset shows the cut end after it was filed smooth and rounded a bit.

After the engine block was set and glued - 
TIP: I wanted to protect the inside upper end of the thin BT-20 tube from the ejection charge flame.
A line of glue was ran down a dowel.
The dowel was used to evenly spread out the glue above the engine block.
The entire inside surface (above the engine block) got a coat of white glue.

The centering rings were dry set into position on the engine mount tube.

TIP: To temporarily lock them in position, a small drop of thin CA was set on the joint. Don't use a lot, you want the tube and ring surfaces unsealed to accept the white glue fillets.
This is just to lightly hold the rings in place while the fillets are added.
Rings can sometimes slip when excess fillets are wiped off with a fingertip.

Note: One ring was already notched for the engine hook relief. This isn't needed, the ring glues above the end of the engine hook.
In the next step I punched a hole for the Kevlar. I should have used the engine hook notched ring above for a Kevlar notch.

A small hole was punched in the upper ring for the replacement Kevlar loop.
The ring was glued in place and fillets applied.
The Kevlar loop was pressed into the smoothed fillet.

The finished engine mount.
Above the engine hook you can see the pre-notched centering ring.